Alumcraft T-14SF - Transom help please

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Comstocker

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Just picked up this 1984 Alumacraft T-14SF to replace my Grumman Cartopper. It already has a flat floor, live well, and some storage compartments so I've got a good start. I've got a '87 or so Evinrude 15HP which I'm hoping will push this OK, it really made the Grumman fly!

Of course the floor is rotted out and the transom looks like it needs work. It has a bow mount Minnkota All Terrain trolling motor with an attached foot pedal, but the cable is pretty short. When the motor is in the down position you have to sit on the front bench to use the pedal. I'm thinking I'd like to build a front deck over the front bench seat and add a short pedestal mount seat to make it easier to control the trolling motor and have a little more room to fish. Not sure if I should put the battery in the front or back yet, I'd also like to figure out some rod storage.


I've reviewed several of the projects here and see many people use 2x2s as framing. I have a bunch of 2x2 composite left from a deck project, has anyone tried to use that?

Look forward to learning from the experts here and will be posting progress pictures as I go. Thanks for a great website!

Ken
 

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Thanks guys!

For the $600 I paid I thought I did pretty good. I gutted the inside last evening and am cleaning everything up. I'll have to wait on filling it with water to check for leaks, they're saying snow for us and freezing temps for the next few days.

The composite 2x2s are slightly heavier than regular wood, but I'm thinking they shouldn't rot over the next few years.
 
Well, I started disassembling the T-14SF and the built-ins came out nicely and the rotted floor wasn't too bad to remove.Transom 005.jpg


The transom, however, is going to be a challenge. There was a couple deep dents from screwing the engine clamps down on the inside and a nice 25 or so degree bend outward on the outside of the transom where the bottom of the engine cradle hits.

I cut the top rail off the transom and here's what I foundTransom 003.jpgTransom 002.jpg

Problem is, without removing some of the structural rivets I don't know how I'm going to make the replacement wood go all the way to the outside edge like the original pieces. It is a double layer, you can see the rear layer pushing out the bottom here, but the layer to the front is behind the aluminum which has a 3/4" lip on the top edge.Transom 004.jpg



Any good ideas?
 
Yikes, you've got a challenge with that transom.
Regarding the composite for your framing: Because it a little more flexible than wood, you'll need to brace it in shorter spans. But that's about the only difference in building. I used composite 2 X 6 dimensions for my trailer bunks. Just added a third bunk bracket in the middle for extra support and I couldn't be happier.
 
Well the transom came out easier than expected!! :LOL2:Transom 007.jpg

The two piece transom board goes end to end though and tucks under the corner pieces.Transom 008.jpg

What's the best way to remove the corner pieces? Transom 009.jpg


What would one expect to pay to have the corners re-riveted? Or, is using stainless nuts/bolts and acceptable way to put them back on?
 
X2 what lckstckn2smknbrls said on stainless hardware.

That's what I did.Alot of your transoms strength is from the corners so you want to make sure they are fastened well.
 
Got the "new" transom put together this evening, two pieces of 3/4 plywood glued together and slathered with valspar eurothane. Had a new cap made to replace the top edge of the transom and glued and screwed it all together. The new brass drain tubes were a little tough to bend tight without the proper tool, but thanks to some hints here I got them nice and tight. I think it came out pretty good!
transom.JPG

Now I have to finish the livewell plumbing, then I can start on the new floor. Is in necessary to use brass through hull fittings below the water line, or can you use the plastic with marine sealant?
 
I just purchased a 1984 T14SF and your the first one I have found doing a restoration. Hope to see the rest of yours... I would love to see how you took out the seats/compartments. Mine are riveted into the sides of the boat and are screwed into the floor, which is rotten. I would like to remove some of these compartments to do a proper floor replacement. I have no experience with riveting, so I am a little worried about removing any rivets that could potentially cause leaks. So my question is did you remove rivets from the side of the boat or the brackets that connect the boxes? I was thinking that removing the compartments from brackets (thus leaving the rivets that are through the boat hull undisturbed) and then re-riveting these back with pop rivets may be the best solution, any thoughts?

Thanks.
 

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