Replacing Waterlogged Foam in 89 Bass Tracker Pro 17

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kofkorn

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Hi all,

I recently purchased an 89 Tracker Pro 17 for a good deal. The boat is in very good condition, and has brand new decking and carpet replaced in spring this year. In an earlier post, we've identified that the decking was made with Marine grade plywood and it appears that the PO used very good quality carpet. I've spoken with him about the foam and he let me know that when he redid the decking, he replaced the foam under the lower "main" deck because it was waterlogged. Based on what I can see, he didn't replace the foam under the bow casting deck or the stern casting deck.

It appears that the bow casting deck is fairly easy to remove, as it is only screwed in place. So I'm not overly concerned with replacing this foam.

My issue is with the stern deck. I did get access to the foam by removing the stern light socket. I jammed a thin stick down into the foam and let is set for a few minutes to see if the foam was wet. When I pulled the stick out, approximately 3" of it was wet. I'm guessing that if the foam in the main deck was waterlogged, it is more than likely that the foam under the stern deck is as well.

I have two issues:

1) The PO did a fairly nice job with the carpeting, and I would hate to have to tear it out and replace it. Is it even possible to remove the stern aluminum casting deck without peeling up the carpet?

2) Does anyone have any experience with the aluminum tracker construction that can give me some specifics as to the steps required to remove the stern deck? This would greatly simplify the answer to #1.

Either way, I still feel like I got a good deal, I just would like to minimize the amount of work to get it running like a top.

Images of the current state of the decking are below:
 

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kofkorn

I have a boat very similar to yours. Mine is the 1996 TX 17 Tournament and has the livewell so our stern decks are a little different. In my hatches, there is a base plate that is bolted in with (4) SS screws in each corner. I was able to get to some of the rear foam from there. I also had foam under the drivers seat. I have yet to take my whole stern deck apart. The foam that I was able to get to so far was in long sheets about 8-10" wide. I was able to pull a lot of out from these access points. Mine has another large base plate that my batteries and fuel tank sits on in the large rear hatch. I'm hoping I can get to the remainder of the foam from here after I take the batteries and tank out. Maybe you can access your foam this way as well? If not, you may have to pull the carpet.

There are quite a few buildups on similar boats here under the Conversion and Modifications section. Just do a search for Bass Tracker and you will find them. You may want to take a look at MMF's build to get some ideas of how his was constructed: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16860. For what it's worth, here's my build that may give you some ideas as well: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=21624

I hope this helps you out a little. Keep us updated on your progress and good luck with that foam under the bow deck. That stuff is hard to get out!

Eric
 
Hi Eric,

Thanks for the info. I have come across MMF's post previously, but the differences between the back decks from the TX17 to the Pro17 are dramatic.

I found someone else doing the exact same restoration on the exact same boat on a different forum, and he has been able to provide me with a lot of details. Basically, to get to the foam under the rear deck, nearly everything has to come out.

I am a little busy with a couple of home upgrades before cold weather sets in, but I want to get to this before it starts freezing, as I hate scraping my car and I need the bay back :)

I think I am going to the best I can to save the carpet, it appears that it will peel without significant difficulty, as it is nearly brand new. It also looks like I can get the floor under the console up in one piece as well, so that should save me some significant effort.

I'm going to keep looking at other upgrades in the meantime to be fully informed before tearing into anything.

I'll be sure to post progress. Thanks!
 
Just a couple of thoughts. I was involved in another boat owner's group on MS Groups.

The boats were built of fiberglass and some of them developed water-soaked foam. The reason often seemed to be poor dealer and/or owner installation of center consoles and other items. People left the boats out in the rain and didn't clear the drains. Water pooled up and eventually soaked the hull's foam. The screws were often not properly sealed and water soaked down the screw fittings.

The answer in many cases was to drill holes in the lower portion of the transom. The owner then raised the bow of the boat as high as possible, and left the boat in that position for a couple of weeks. That process drained a tremendous amount of water out of the hulls. The holes were filled with fiberglass and the boats went on running well for years.

If taking your deck out is not possible, you might investigate draining the water instead.

regards, Rich
 
Hi Rich,

Well that is so simple that it would be silly not to try. I might forgo the holes in the transom and simply leave out the drain plug. I'll keep a 5 gal bucket underneath to keep a tally of how much I removed. I've got a couple of weeks before I can even attempt to tackle this any way.

No time like now...

Thanks!
 
I am not sure that simply leaving the plug out will do enough, but it wouldn't hurt to try.

If you want to experiment a little...if you have a transducer or other device already screwed into the transom, pull the screws and see if you get any flow. You can patch the holes with 3M5200 and not have to worry about future leakage.

I suspect, though, that you will have to drill holes all of the way through the double sided transom ...to the foam.... to get any real value out of the tilt method. The fiberglass transoms were drilled all of the way through to the foam...so the drainage water had a simple route to follow.

Rich
 
I think the transom design on this boat is slightly different. It's not a double wall setup all the way to the bottom of the "V". Basically, there is a double walled area to about 6" above the bottom of the "V". When you get to the bottom of the transom, it's a single wall only.
Quick Sketch:

Transom.jpg

Additionally, the foam compartments aren't completely encapsulated. I can reach around and touch the foam compartments from within the bilge, but I can't access them enough to remove the material.

I've got it up and draining now. I've probably gotten about 1 1/2 - 2 gallons already. We'll see if it keeps coming. Either way, nothing lost by doing this.
 
GREAT!! Sounds like you've got the solution well in hand. Your layout lends itself to your process very well.

I've never done it, but I also thought about hooking up a small, low powered wet/dry shop-vac to the exit hole(s). Suck her dry! Ha Ha..

I'd keep letting gravity work for you and keep us posted on your success.

I also gave some thought to simply elimianting your foam by adding a chemical that will dissolve it. I mess around with some foam model airplanes. The foam is often destroyed by using the wrong glue, or some spray paints.

Crazy Glue does a quick job dissolving a foam-wing if you don't use "foam safe" crazy Glue. I think gasoline also will dissolve most foams, but I don't think filling your hull with gasoline is a very good idea...Ha ha...

Then, you could mixup some pouring foam to replace the first batch. Hey, I've never done either of these things, but I suspect they might work if one had to go that far.

regards, Rich

p.s. keep us posted!
 
I figure I've got about a week before getting to the nitty gritty of the work due to other unfinished projects. I'll be trolling the forums for info between now and then.

I'll be sure to keep a good record of the progress and post pictures as I go along. I'm sure I'll be asking questions during the process as well. Thanks for the support!
 

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