Yep, use the aircraft coating remover, and a turbo (oscillating) tip on the pressure washer. Since this stuff basically uses its fumes to do the work, it goes without saying to do this in a well ventilated area, wear a respirator and gloves, and most importantly, wear safety glasses!
Also, have water on hand to rinse this stuff off your skin if you get any on you. And believe me, you will INSTANTLY know if you do, because it burns worse than pepper spray.
I wasn't aware of the saran wrap trick to hold in the fumes, but that makes sense. And again, as this stuff works by process of its fumes and evaporation, it is volatile, and rapidly evaporates. Once it dries out, it's more difficult to remove. So, for best results, do small areas at a time, don't try to cover the whole boat, it will waste material.
Once you have the paint removed, you need to make sure you have ALL the residue from the coating remover off the surface before you try to re-paint. You should follow up with a soapy wash and rinse.
Once you do that, if you plan to re-paint, you need to use phosphoric acid to etch the metal, followed by a wash with baking soda to neutralize the acid, then a rinse.
Once it's dry, you'll need to use zinc chromate or some type of self-etching primer specifically formulated for aluminum. Ordinary primers will flake off. With the zinc chromate, you're not trying to put on a thick coat as you would with other primers. Basically, just a fogging of the surface will be adequate. Then follow up with a good paint, either oil or epoxy based.