Rivet Gun Questions...

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FlyBye

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I have a few areas on my aluminum boat floor that has a slight rise and makes/sends a nice sound (when walking there) alerting all fish in a five state area that I'm coming after them. This is obviously undesirable and can be and should be corrected before laying carpet.

I have never used a rivet gun, but I know several on this forum can steer me in the right direction.
I am considering one from Harbor Freight Tools: Heavy Duty 17-1/2" Hand Riveter with Collection Bottle made by Pittsburgh. It uses 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16" and 1/4" size rivets.

https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-17-1-2-half-inch-hand-riveter-with-collection-bottle-66422.html

1) Is this the tool I need to better secure the aluminum floor to my jon boat?
2) If so, what size rivets should I choose?
3) I'm assuming I need to use aluminum rivets verses stainless steel, is this correct?
4) What other tips or things to avoid should I consider?

My boat is a 1754 Tracker Grizzly

Thanks
 

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Look like anice one to me.
I looked at um today at Manards and they has some from $12 on upto $20.I going to buy the nice $20 rivit gun along with some 3/16 rivits.I going tobe putting down a aluminum floor and also going to replace 2 rivits in the boat itself #-o
 
I have a 1860 tracker grizzly with the same challange. I have been hesitant to use any fasteners at all. Sometimes the floor creeks and as it warms up and expands the noise goes away I m afraid to add fastners thinking it was desinged to expand and contract a little and fastners in the wrong place may cause a problem? Ill be watching with intrest.
Hope this helps...........River
 
PSG-1 said:
Yes, use aluminum rivets. Using stainless rivets in aluminum will set up a dielectric reaction, and will cause electrolysis, particularly if used in salt water.
I thought SS was safe with aluminum and it didn't cause a reaction. Isn't that why we use all SS hardware in our modifications?

FlyBy: Read carefully when buying Aluminum Rivets. Especially from harbor freight. They have aluminum rivets that have steel shanks. The steel shanks will rust.
 
Make sure to use all aluminum rivets. 3/16 is about average size. Hand riveters work well, but if you have a ton to do, it will be tiresome. Know that it will take 2 squeezes to complete the process. one will expand the rivet and the next will cut the shank. after the first squeeze, make sure the rivet gun is all the way back flush against the rivet head!

Jeff
 
Jay415 said:
PSG-1 said:
Yes, use aluminum rivets. Using stainless rivets in aluminum will set up a dielectric reaction, and will cause electrolysis, particularly if used in salt water.
I thought SS was safe with aluminum and it didn't cause a reaction. Isn't that why we use all SS hardware in our modifications?

The reason SS hardware is used is because fasteners made from steel are inferior for marine use, and will corrode, whether zinc plated or not. That, and it is slightly less reactive than steel when used in dielectric combinations.

However, bear in mind that because SS is less reactive, that means it acts as a cathode, and any metal it is attached to (other than SS or a more noble metal than SS) becomes an anode. In fresh water, it may not matter very much. But in salt water, especially if the boat is left in the water, it is very important.
 
River said:
I have a 1860 tracker grizzly with the same challange. I have been hesitant to use any fasteners at all. Sometimes the floor creeks and as it warms up and expands the noise goes away I m afraid to add fastners thinking it was desinged to expand and contract a little and fastners in the wrong place may cause a problem? Ill be watching with intrest.
Hope this helps...........River

Before I purchased the boat, I got inside and walked around to check for noise. There was a little noise, but nothing to end the deal. The dealer did say to wait at least 6 months before trying to add rivets because of the possible expansion. Also, there is a slight difference when the boat is on the trailer verses on the water. I will take a marker with me when on my next trip out to mark the spot(s) before I pop a rivet.
 
PSG-1 said:
Jay415 said:
PSG-1 said:
Yes, use aluminum rivets. Using stainless rivets in aluminum will set up a dielectric reaction, and will cause electrolysis, particularly if used in salt water.
I thought SS was safe with aluminum and it didn't cause a reaction. Isn't that why we use all SS hardware in our modifications?

The reason SS hardware is used is because fasteners made from steel are inferior for marine use, and will corrode, whether zinc plated or not. That, and it is slightly less reactive than steel when used in dielectric combinations.

However, bear in mind that because SS is less reactive, that means it acts as a cathode, and any metal it is attached to (other than SS or a more noble metal than SS) becomes an anode. In fresh water, it may not matter very much. But in salt water, especially if the boat is left in the water, it is very important.
Jay415 said:
PSG-1 said:
Yes, use aluminum rivets. Using stainless rivets in aluminum will set up a dielectric reaction, and will cause electrolysis, particularly if used in salt water.
I thought SS was safe with aluminum and it didn't cause a reaction. Isn't that why we use all SS hardware in our modifications?

FlyBy: Read carefully when buying Aluminum Rivets. Especially from harbor freight. They have aluminum rivets that have steel shanks. The steel shanks will rust.

I appreciate all the responses.

I was thinking that the reason for not using SS rivets was because they are stronger than the aluminum and would expand the rivet hole faster. I wasn't even thinking about any reactions in/on the metal. I do have a high carbon steel "L" shaped mount on the bow of my boat used as a trolling motor mount. The four bolts that connect it to the aluminum base is made of stainless steel. Is this a concern for now/later? I would hate to be the "Guinea-Pig" that sets the example for everyone else to learn from... :)

Thanks
 
Jay415 said:
FlyBy: Read carefully when buying Aluminum Rivets. Especially from harbor freight. They have aluminum rivets that have steel shanks. The steel shanks will rust.

Thanks for info... you are correct; the HF aluminum rivets do have steel shafts. I ended up going to Lowes to get the rivets. I purchased the 3/16 but I didn't know if I needed the short or medium ones... so I got both! I hope to get 'em in the boat sometime this week.
 
i have that rivet gun. the first one i had the head on the end was stripped out so i took it back and got a replacement. I've put about 50 1/4" rivets in my boat with it between a transom and a patch in the floor. sometimes it doesn't grip the rivet correctly and never pulls it up but I don't know if it's the gun or the rivets because most of the time i can switch rivets and it does perfectly. Not good for tight places go. I may have to get a different style with I put the bracing down for my floor. hope this helps.
 
colind said:
How did those rivets work out in your boat?

Rivets work great for fastening down decking. I used rivets to fasten my decking down when I did my resto last fall and it's rock solid.

DSC02252.jpg


DSC02250.jpg


DSC02249.jpg


I used 1/4" dome head aluminum open end rivets mainly, and a few 3/16" large flange aluminum open end rivets.

DSC02214.jpg


Those rivets look long because I have 3/4" decking in my boat.


To determine the length of rivet you need add the thickness of the 2 materials you'll fastening together and that will give you the grip range of the rivet you need.

Stainless steel rivets are ok to use in a boat, but they're very expensive compared to the aluminum rivets. My boat came from the factory with stainless steel screws holding the deck down and I can't see the difference between a stainless rivet and screw.


The aluminum rivets with the steel mandrel are ok to use too, and they're the strongest of the aluminum rivets. 95-98% of the steel comes out when the mandrel pops off, and it just leaves a little steel ball in the rivet. If you're worried about rust you can dab a little 5200 or epoxy over the mandrel hole to protect it.

A rivet gun and an assortment of rivets is one of the handiest things you can own when you own an aluminum boat.
 
FlyBye,

Answers to your questions in red with some additional information to think about.

FlyBye said:
I have a few areas on my aluminum boat floor that has a slight rise and makes/sends a nice sound (when walking there) alerting all fish in a five state area that I'm coming after them. This is obviously undesirable and can be and should be corrected before laying carpet.
Remove this floor if possible, put closed seal foam (You can get this at Home Depot or Lowe's in big sheets or buy pool noodles.) in, then rivet back down. I suggest 3/16" closed end rivets, all aluminum.

I have never used a rivet gun, but I know several on this forum can steer me in the right direction.
I am considering one from Harbor Freight Tools: Heavy Duty 17-1/2" Hand Riveter with Collection Bottle made by Pittsburgh. It uses 3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16" and 1/4" size rivets.

https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-17-1-2-half-inch-hand-riveter-with-collection-bottle-66422.html
I have this tool and I've bought and use a lot of tools from Harbor Freight. Here's what I've learned:

1. They make good tools, but at their price point, they don't do much quality control. In many cases, they are a very similar tool to some you can see at the big box stores, where you pay a lot more for the same Chinese made tool.
2. When you buy a Harbor Freight tool, check it out closely at the store if you can. If not, open it immediately when you get home, take it apart, remove any nasty machining leftovers, grease, relube as necessary with American lubes, and check for flaws. If it's a machine/power/air/gasoline tool, run it immediately and make sure it works properly.
3. If it works out of the box, it will work for a long time.
4. If it doesn't work out of the box, return it immediately to Harbor Freight and exchange for another. Occasionally, you may get two in a row that are bad. But I've never gotten three bad tools in a row.
5. Because batteries are problematic anyways, I avoid their battery powered tools. Otherwise, I've been very happy with most of their stuff.
6. This tool is big, very strong, but because of it's size and how it works, it can't get into some areas very well and is awkward to me to operate. It also takes a good bit of muscle.


1) Is this the tool I need to better secure the aluminum floor to my jon boat?
It will do the job and do it well. I suggest you also get a standard rivet gun. If you have a compressor, buy one of these instead:

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/riveters/3-16-inch-air-hydraulic-riveter-93458.html

You will need to take it apart, clean it, lube it with American lube and reassemble while doing a quality control check, but it is an excellent arm saver and sets 3/16" rivets with zero effort on your part, just squeeze the trigger and boom, rivet set beautifully. Get a 20% coupon online and wait till it goes on sale. You won't regret it.



2) If so, what size rivets should I choose?
3/16" is generally what the manufacturer's use for most boat assembly. If you're using plywood for floors, I would suggest 1/4" rivets. In either size, I would go with closed end aluminum rivets. I am installing .125" (1/8") aluminum flooring in my boat. (see my sig, lots of information about tools) and 3/16" rivets that are 1/2" long. They are working beautifully for me. BTW, most guys buy a single box or bag. I suggest buying 300 right off the bat. You will save more than the cost of shipping or gas to go get more many times over and you'll have spares on hand if you need to do a boat repair later down the road.

3) I'm assuming I need to use aluminum rivets verses stainless steel, is this correct?
Yes, it is.

4) What other tips or things to avoid should I consider?
Measure ten times and cut once. Make good templates of the hull. Smooth the edges of your material. Consider how things will look before you install them. Mock up stuff and see how it looks before final assembly. Use quality materials if you can afford them. They will last much longer and give you satisfaction long after the other stuff falls apart.

My boat is a 1754 Tracker Grizzly
Nice boat.

/quote]
 
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