Filling holes

rrawhide · Feb 21, 2012

Well, my JB Marine Stik came in today so i can start filling holes. probably 50 plus so gotta get started - - -
ALSO my Styx Marsh Grass stencil kit came in too - - - guess i gotta fill the holes first - gonna be fun!!!!

rrawhide

ps: i think that i have read most all the threads on this forum - - - thanx everyone for the assistance.

rrawhide

:LOL2: =D>

dotchess · Feb 22, 2012

I did not read much on the jb weld stick. I used 3m 5200 myself.

Jdholmes · Feb 22, 2012

Yah, I you read most every thread on the forum you probably have noted that lots of use aren't a big fan of JB on our aluminum boat. I have experienced myself how easily it cracks.

5200 has the flex that we need. +1 on that.

rrawhide · Feb 22, 2012

thanx all

just ordered a tube of the new 3M 5200 fast set - hope it comes in soon - - - - -

there is a little vertical crack on the bow just above the eye bolt - about 3" long with no gap. Will 5200 take care of this too?

thanx

rrawhide

lckstckn2smknbrls · Feb 22, 2012

rrawhide said:
thanx all

just ordered a tube of the new 3M 5200 fast set - hope it comes in soon - - - - -

there is a little vertical crack on the bow just above the eye bolt - about 3" long with no gap. Will 5200 take care of this too?

thanx

rrawhide

Get it mig welded

shawnfish · Feb 23, 2012

id get it tig' ed instead of mig"ed. either way get it welded up so it dont start running down the keel and make a small problem a big one...

rrawhide · Feb 27, 2012

This is what I was referring to - - -

thanx

rrawhide

fool4fish1226 · Feb 28, 2012

For sure get that one welded.

johnnyclack · Feb 29, 2012

That area is a major stress point on your hull. [-X

Not only would I weld (perfer TIG) I would plate over it by at least 2" to 2.5" beyond the edge of the spilt. Inside would be my first choice, outside of hull would be my second choice.

Mojo^ · Feb 29, 2012

Just welding won't stop the crack. You need to drill a small hole at each end (drill stop) of the crack to stop it from progressing and then have it welded. The trick is finding the true ends of the crack. I doubt you have access to a dye penetrant system so I'd use a good magnifying glass to find the ends. If you really want to be really sure, you can buy a can of Spotcheck 01-5150-77 Dye Penetrant for around $17 and use a blacklight.

JamesM56alum · Feb 29, 2012

Mojo^ said:
Just welding won't stop the crack. You need to drill a small hole at each end (drill stop) of the crack to stop it from progressing and then have it welded. The trick is finding the true ends of the crack. I doubt you have access to a dye penetrant system so I'd use a good magnifying glass to find the ends. If you really want to be really sure, you can buy a can of Spotcheck 01-5150-77 Dye Penetrant for around $17 and use a blacklight.

What he said ^ because if you dont stop the crack it will continue to crack past the welds even if it looks perfect it isnt i can promise you, the JB water weld is good stuff i used it on alot of the rivits on the flat part of my boat where the flexing is minimal.

Filling holes

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