1990 tracker deep v pro16 transom replacement

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socal

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Feb 20, 2012
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Location
riverside, ca
hello every one. found this site from iboats and thought i would post here for info on how this is done. i already did some searching but i thought i would post this to see what you think. i just bought this boat thinking it would be a recarpet and seat deal but i started looking at the transom and fell it is toast. i lower the motor and it sags alittle and i can make it bounce if i want, so that cant be good. i'll post pics and you guys can tell me what you think i should do. also the fin on the bottom end of the motor got bent and the tip broke off, can this be repaired?
i figure i have to take the two end caps off then the strip that goes across the top and remove all the bolts and screws off the back, along with the motor. there's a hook on the top of the motor is that where i hook it to pull it off? what would be the best plywood to use and what do you do to it to prepare it before you install it. i see some use epoxy and some use resin.also can you tell me where i do the intro?

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tou're on the right track for replacing the transom, remove everything! also, crawl and look under to bow side of the transom to see if there is any access to it there also. I lift my motor by the same hook you are talking about, some say otherwise BUT,,, The fin (SKEG)on your lower unit can be repaired but honestly won't affect operation to much, if it bothers you a lot look for a product called a skeg gaurd. Welcome to the forum, please update some profile info so we know where ya are and pics of progress are great!
 
thankd for the info. i started digging in it today after work and got all the stuff out from the inside to get to the nylon nuts now i have to pull the motor tomorrow and it should be ready to start replacing the wood. it looks like there is a 3/4 and a 1/2 inch sandwiched together. i'll post some pics tomorrow. the sun was going down and i have no flash.
 
most transoms are 2 peice, if i was you id replace the thicker peice of ply and sub a peice of aluminum sheet for the thinner peice of ply to make it more rigid. as for the skeg you could get someone to fab and tig a peice back on but like the guy before said it will not affect the performance of the motor so its a question if you can live with it being broke off and not have it bother you, i would fix it but thats just me....nice boat by the way, whats pushing it?
 
thanks for the info. it has a evinrude 40 hp. are those motors any good? i would like to get a 4 stroke but man there pricey. do you guys use marine plywood or just get the regular kind seal that instead? i was gonna use fiberglass resin to seal it but i am up for advise, cause i dont want to have to do this for a long time again
 
socal said:
thanks for the info. it has a evinrude 40 hp. are those motors any good? i would like to get a 4 stroke but man there pricey. do you guys use marine plywood or just get the regular kind seal that instead? i was gonna use fiberglass resin to seal it but i am up for advise, cause i dont want to have to do this for a long time again

from the looks of the motor and year of the boat im guessing your rude is a 1990, evinrude and johnson are pretty much the same exact motors both being OMC built. that being said as far as im concerned and i think most would agree they are very good motors. as for wanting a four stroke theres a few things to consider, one being that a 4 stroke will be heavier than a 2 stroke. a 4 will be quieter and give ya a lil better fuel economy but from a mechanical point of veiw the 2 stroke is way easier to replace and repair parts wich if you are mechanicaly inclined will save you a bunch of money on repairs and replacing parts such as the pump and impeller and a tune up wich should be done every few years if you want your motor to last and not give you any suprises on the water. as for the transom i would just use regular lumber and seal it yourself with a resin and it will last a lifetime.
 

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