Prep and Paint Questions...

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BassMaster52

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I'm currently working on my 1652 Sea Ark mod and I'm getting close to laying down some paint. The inside of the boat is completely stripped down to bare, shinny aluminum. I'm thinking that 220 grit should be my final sand coat to hopefully give the metal some "teeth". My plan for the inside was to use a product called Metal-Ready to etch the aluminum and use a baking soda wash to neutralize the acid. My first question is do I use a self-etching primer on top of the now etched aluminum? Or do I use a standard primer?

As for the outside of the boat, I orginally planned on stripping and painting it as well but after realizing how strong the factory paint is, I'd be a moron to try and duplicate it at home. I will need to change the color of the outside of the boat however so I plan to spray over the factory paint. I realize I need to scratch the paint to give it teeth as well, but my question is what grit? 220, 330, 400? After give it a light sand I will need to wipe it down with acetone or paint thinner? And finally, once the outside is roughed up and clean, do I need to primer the surface before I lay down my color?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts, insight, or advice.
 
Let's go the other way :) I was thinking of using 150 grit on mine is that too rough? I've already sanded the railings and bow cap with it and it doesn't seem too rough if I run my hand on it. I plan on leaving bare aluminum on the railing and re-paint the hull. I was afraid anything higher wouldn't take the flake and bad paint spots. I just plan to clean up the flake and scuff the rest. Then acetone. Then Prime bare spots with self-etching primer. Then paint.

Is 150 grit too rough still?
 
I'd forget the sandpaper for roughing up what's already painted and use some red Scotch-Brite. It works 1000x better for that kind of thing.
 
I haven't used scotch brite so I can't speak to that, but I have used sandpaper and it works...and is what the manufacturers typically recommend...so I am good with that.

If you want to take some of the flakier or uneven spots off with 150 go for it but blend it with a finer grit, I think 150 is a little too coarse to give the best finish possible...
 
I agree with the scoth-brite But watch out for those fingers on the edges. also on the metal etch ...wait befor we get to that I want to ask you where in southern md are you If you are close to the delware line ill tell you what store to get your meterial from. See its what i do for a living paint cars so i would be glad to help in any advice if needed. what kinda tools like sanders do you have that will aslo help with the process but a metal etch is sprayed on very thin and then you can use a primer with a few heavy coats over it then wait for that to dry. Best if it sets 24 hr. or go with a lessor grit sand paper you can start with the 220 like you wanted then step it down to 320 then 400 then clean that off blow it off real good then metal etch then seal all wet on wet then paint it let that set 24 hr. then go fish !
 
I plan on rolling mine with Rustoleum Enamel rather than spray just so it's a little more evenly applied.
 
Vermonster, I did that same thing with my boat. The inside done so far. I currently have the boat flipped over and waiting to be primed and painted.
2012-03-11_19-56-26_HDR.jpg

I rolled on that Rustoleum enamel paint with a foam roller, after 2 coats of self-etching primer. Three coats later, it was looking good. That enamel is a pretty cool thing
TIP: Have multiple rollers. By the third coat, my rollers were losing foam. Traces of the foam were getting on the paint job.
 
Vermontser said:
I plan on rolling mine with Rustoleum Enamel rather than spray just so it's a little more evenly applied.

How much more work is it to roll on the paint rather than spray? Also does it take more prep?
 
Proyotehunter said:
Vermontser said:
I plan on rolling mine with Rustoleum Enamel rather than spray just so it's a little more evenly applied.

How much more work is it to roll on the paint rather than spray? Also does it take more prep?

As far as applying the paint with a roller, not that difficult. I bought a little kit with a 4 inch foam roller and a foam brush pad. The finish came out smooth. It took 3 coats. But I just rolled it on the boat and spread the paint. You might have spots at first by rolling it on but as you put more coats it evens out. Only part that was hard was painting creases, dips, and certain curves.
 
Best way to get a nice finish by rolling is to roll and tip...watch videos on YouTube to find out how. It is basically rolling on and going over top lightly with a brush.
 
Nothing against those using foam rollers but:

I hate foam rollers, They dissolve in rustoleum and are not what I would use. I use the disposable 1/4 or less nap rollers. There $1.99-$2.99 with a disposable tray at home depot. The big trick to rustoleum is to roll it on really wet and keep working it. If your roller is sticking then its too dry. Read the can; you can re- apply a second cote in about 15-45 minutes depending on the temp as long as your rolling it on really wet. Lay it on thick and watch for runs, all you do is roll over them and your good.

If your looking for a quicker dry time add 3-10% MEK to the paint, It will thin it out a little but it will dry "Harder-faster". Big difference between "Not really tacky" and "dry enough to slide up the bunks onto the trailer".

I am a welder/ fabricator by trade and have painted enough crap with rustoleum in the last 15 years that I wish I had bought it by the 55gal drum. I never buy it in less then a gallon and it always gets used.

Keep lots of chip brushes and rollers arround.

Dont worry if it looks "textured" at first. In a couple weeks it will shrink/cure and smooth out.

Dont worry too much about what grit to sand to, use a wire wheel and grinder to strip the crap off and call it good. The brown rusty metal primer will stick to just about anything.

DO NOT under any circumstance use spray paint on anything unless you are willing to re-paint it next year. Roll it on, give it a couple coats and forget about it. If you spray paint it you get a couple thousands thick paint but the roller will give you 10 times the protection.

Scratch it? rub it? Back into the mail box? Get your roller out and roll a little over it and its brand new again. =D>
 
I have question. I sanded my aluminum Jon.some spots go down to aluminum but majority didn't.
the surface is all very smooth. I plan on spraying on rustoluem self etching primer.
so do I have to rough up surface first.

I'm. A little confused lol
Thanks
 
flajsh said:
I have question. I sanded my aluminum Jon.some spots go down to aluminum but majority didn't.
the surface is all very smooth. I plan on spraying on rustoluem self etching primer.
so do I have to rough up surface first.

I'm. A little confused lol
Thanks

If you sanded it - you should be ready to prime. Make sure you wipe it down extremely well with Acetone (some folks use vinegar), before priming
 
+1. The primer will do most of the work. It's actually a dilute acid which etches small pits in to the surface of the metal to allow for better paint adhesion, hence the term "self-etching". A little goes a long way, so you'll only need a light dusting.
 

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