installed drain plug and fixed some rivets- pics

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JamesM56alum

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Farmington, minnesota "Orginally Pensacola, F
Yep basicly the pic's tell it all, 1inch hole saw and some stainless steel bolts washers and nylon nuts, and 3M 08008 sealer/epoxy. this stuff really sticks to a hard surface, and it's a royal pain in the *** to get off your hands. Once im done replacing the leaky rivets i'll finish off the sealer on the floor and cut off the excess 8008 that oozed out.

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eh i was almost out of 5200 and i'm going to be saving that for the bolts for the transom and also the bulkamp company's 3M rep came into my job the other day and we were talking about sealers and i mentioned 5200 and how long it took to cure he mentioned this 08008 sealer is just as good and drys in about 5 minutes and fully cures in an hour. It's also called window weld in some company's, it's the same thing they use to weather proof windshields. It's 100% water proof so i figured i'd give it a shot and well so far everything he's said is true, it dried quick as all hell and stuck like a magnet so tomorrow i will be doing a water test and letting it sit over night to see if there are any leaks aka any more rivets i need to replace.
 
JamesM56alum said:
eh i was almost out of 5200 and i'm going to be saving that for the bolts for the transom and also the bulkamp company's 3M rep came into my job the other day and we were talking about sealers and i mentioned 5200 and how long it took to cure he mentioned this 08008 sealer is just as good and drys in about 5 minutes and fully cures in an hour. It's also called window weld in some company's, it's the same thing they use to weather proof windshields. It's 100% water proof so i figured i'd give it a shot and well so far everything he's said is true, it dried quick as all hell and stuck like a magnet so tomorrow i will be doing a water test and letting it sit over night to see if there are any leaks aka any more rivets i need to replace.
Neat info on the 08008 sealer - I hope it works out! Napa down the street from me has it all day long, but I've yet to find 5200 anywhere.
 
wihil said:
JamesM56alum said:
eh i was almost out of 5200 and i'm going to be saving that for the bolts for the transom and also the bulkamp company's 3M rep came into my job the other day and we were talking about sealers and i mentioned 5200 and how long it took to cure he mentioned this 08008 sealer is just as good and drys in about 5 minutes and fully cures in an hour. It's also called window weld in some company's, it's the same thing they use to weather proof windshields. It's 100% water proof so i figured i'd give it a shot and well so far everything he's said is true, it dried quick as all hell and stuck like a magnet so tomorrow i will be doing a water test and letting it sit over night to see if there are any leaks aka any more rivets i need to replace.
Neat info on the 08008 sealer - I hope it works out! Napa down the street from me has it all day long, but I've yet to find 5200 anywhere.

Not at Home Depot? That's where I get mine... they do not have the fast dry however. Price was good, like 6-7 bucks for the medium size tube (the next size smaller then the caulk gun size... not sure of the oz...)
 
Nope, didn't see it when I was at HD last, nor at Menards. I don't usually go to Lowes as they're more expensive than the other two...

Napa's just down the block, though. I'll hit them up next time I need some!
 
Cool post James. Do you know if that new 3M would work for resealing lower units? I know the factory recommends 3M 847, but I'm curious about this new product. Good luck on the project.
 
Leak test, no leaks so far i will let it sit over night worst case it's pin hole leaks which i'm fine with because if it was a big enough leak to worry about i would have noticed it with in a few minutes like it was before i fixed the rivet's

Here's some pic's, don't mind the inside of the boat i just flipped it back over yesterday and i haven't finished painting/lining the inside of the boat so it's only half done. I wanted to wait untill i installed the drain plug and bulge port and fixed the rivet's before i finshed the paint.

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i'll post more pic's tomorrow morning when i drain the boat and show you the leaks if there are any, and to answer your question KFA i'm not quite sure on that one, i'm still on the bench with this stuff i don't know if i would trust it. I mean worst case if you do use it and it fail's you just have to change the oil in your lower unit, the stuff hardens pretty **** good i tried breaking it off with my thumb nail and folded the nail back, lol kinda hurt a little but it proved to me the guy wasnt lying to me.
 
VERY VERY! minimal leak, 99% of the water i found on the floor this morning was sweat from the boat because it was about 75 in the garage and the water was cold as all hell, the only spot i found that was leaking was a small weak spot in a rivet around the bottom of the transom which i'm not even going to worry about fixing because once i finish sealing the floor from the mid boat back to the transom, the liner should seal it up nicely. i'll take pic's tonight after work...
 
Hmmmm, according to one of your posts in another thread that roll on bed liner is supposed to stop leaks no matter what anybody says.

JamesM56alum said:
Actually from experience it does help seal small leaks no matter what any one says, and just as JD said it's for surface protection an i also have it on the bottom of my boat to strengthen the bottom and lower the sound.

Or maybe a leaking rivet isn't a small leak?

Closed end blind rivets would give you better service than those nuts and bolts.

That black bed liner is going to be hot this summer.
 
The roll on bed liner does stop ALOT of different leak's and as far as the blind rivet's i beg to differ because the stainless bolt's and nylon locking nut's will not ware down nearly as fast as a rivet, and the reason behind me having to replace the leaking rivet's is because they were worn down flush with the alum due to year's of loading and unloading onto the trailer or being beached.

And as far as the nut's and bolt's leaking faster i can assure you a nylon nut and bolt with 5200 or 80008 sealing them will be tighter and remain tighter than any rivet. Thus sealing better.
 
JamesM56alum said:
The roll on bed liner does stop ALOT of different leak's and as far as the blind rivet's i beg to differ because the stainless bolt's and nylon locking nut's will not ware down nearly as fast as a rivet, and the reason behind me having to replace the leaking rivet's is because they were worn down flush with the alum due to year's of loading and unloading onto the trailer or being beached.

And as far as the nut's and bolt's leaking faster i can assure you a nylon nut and bolt with 5200 or 80008 sealing them will be tighter and remain tighter than any rivet. Thus sealing better.

So that's why your boat is put together with rivets instead of nuts and bolts... so it will leak faster???
 
JamesM56alum said:
No one like's a smartass dude, if an entire boat used nut's and bolt's instead of rivet's it would raise the weight of the boat to where it would be pretty much useless.

use your brain..

Not to mention the foot stub and trip hazard they create eh?! Can you imagine accidently kneeling down on one of those babies with your knee cap?!!! :shock:

There are good reasons boat manufacturers don't use nuts and bolts to hold a boat together, and boat owners shouldn't either.
 

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