I thought this was pretty cool

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dyeguy1212

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I know poorman's powerpoles have been discussed before, but I've never seen this brand. Seem to be pretty high quality, and I'd imagine the fiberglass pole would keep it light weight.

Seems like you need to remove the pole and stow it though. I'd like to see something that would allow it to be stowed in the mounting bracket it an upright position.

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Dig_In_Shallow_Water_Anchors_and_Accessories/catpage-DISAA.html
 
Dyeguy check this link out, these are what I have on my boat one front and rear. Best investment yet.

https://www.stickitanchorpins.com/brake.html
 
fool4fish1226 said:
Dyeguy check this link out, these are what I have on my boat one front and rear. Best investment yet.

https://www.stickitanchorpins.com/brake.html
This product is very good, we sell them where I work. They are easy to stow, and the cost is minimal if compared to power pole. By the way the plastic mounting bracket is a very strong abs that should last the life of the boat. I will have one on my boat when it is finished. Well worth the money IMO.
 
.....friend of mine sold a bunch of these at the Houston Fishing Show a week or so back. Custom made metal brackets.

Link: https://site.po-pole.com/Home.php

 
The "Brake" seems like it would be perfect for a tin. I guess I'll be spending even more money now...Thanks! :p
 
I dunno bout all that money on a stick and something to hold it there! I believe it was somewhere on here that someone had fabricated one with maybe 15-30 dollars of home depot parts and I surely can't see a significant advantage that the production models have.
 
gouran01 said:
I dunno bout all that money on a stick and something to hold it there! I believe it was somewhere on here that someone had fabricated one with maybe 15-30 dollars of home depot parts and I surely can't see a significant advantage that the production models have.
Yea it is a little pricey, but you get what you pay for. There are lots of ways to accomplish the same thing for much less money. I have been using bamboo for years since that crap grows right next to my garage. Its free but it eventually breaks. The guy who made the homemade one has a great idea too, but it will rust after time, and that looks like galvanized pipe too. I want that stick it thing because it will probably never break and it will never rust. It all depends on how much dinero you want to spend.
 
"I thought about making my own but my welding skills are nonexistent.
I'd really like to have a good metal bracket on the transom."

I've never tried the hinge portion of this idea, but I bet it would work.

Take one side of a long, large, galvanized hinge; bend it out so that the hinge hole end protrudes three inches or so.

Fasten the narrow end to the boat's stern with bolts, the same way you would fasten any of these devices to the stern, and slip a brass curtain rod or other "stick-pin" shaft through the hinge's holes.

You might have to insert a piece of 2 x 6 between the hinge and the boat's stern to move the holes further away from the boat...

I already use a long brass curtain rod for a loose fitting stick-pin. Other than some bending, it works for my limited uses.
What do you think??
Rich

hinge%2520idea1.jpg
 
Has anybody used these on a fast moving river? and from the bow of the boat since that would help reduce drag from the current? To give a good idea of the speed/power of the current I am talking about. I use a 12lb river anchor and have to let out 50ft minimum anchor line before it grabs and holds me in a fixed position. If pole anchors would work in that type of current, I can fab out everything to make a fixed position mount on the boat. Even if 2 would be needed on the bow, then it still sounds like a great solution for what I would need it for.

Thanks,
Matt
 
Most of my use in TX is on the shallow salt-water flats, where the depth is not more than a couple of feet. Where I fish, I do not experience the type of current that a full-fledged river would bring.

I doubt that you would have the soft bottom normally required to stick the pin in. Most rivers that I have been on have a very rocky bottom.

I used a cast-off brass curtain rod. Put a screw eye through one end. Stick it into the muck and clip a line onto it. No fastener at all on the boat, just a line to a cleat.

You might go to a garage sale and see if you can find something similar for a few bucks. Make it, and try it in various locations. If it worked, then build a more permanent rig. R
 
I think I might have some 10' pipe sections that are 2 inch. Once I get to the river to try it out I can post results if anybody else is wondering that river fishes also.
 
10 foot pipe 2 inch......wow....that's a long way from fiberglass/carbon-fiber/ or brass "sticks". If I could raise one up and stuff it in the ground....I'm sure it would work around here.

I might just drop it overboard as an anchor...ha Ha....

Let us know how it comes out, please. Rich
 
Well 2inch might be over doing it, yet I think that's the smallest pipe around the yard...lol.When I go on the river, I am sick of the anchor just dragging across the bottom since the spots I fish do not have many good underwater rocks to snag with the anchor. So this pipe type anchor might just be exactly what I need. Heading out fishing tomorrow, yet taking a friends boat. Next time I go out with mine I will give it a try and post an update. Walleye run in full swing and white bass run soon to follow.
 
MattR said:
Well 2inch might be over doing it, yet I think that's the smallest pipe around the yard...lol.When I go on the river, I am sick of the anchor just dragging across the bottom since the spots I fish do not have many good underwater rocks to snag with the anchor. So this pipe type anchor might just be exactly what I need. Heading out fishing tomorrow, yet taking a friends boat. Next time I go out with mine I will give it a try and post an update. Walleye run in full swing and white bass run soon to follow.

That's always my issue too. I figured I'd just a metal pipe and sharpen it to a razor's edge so it'll work on sand flats
 

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