Tips for getting old foam out?

I'm redoing my boat, have all the interior out, except all the water-logged floatation foam between the ribs that was under the floor. The ribs are C-channel and criss-crossed, so that foam is tight.

Anyone have tips on how to remove it? I've been using the back of a claw hammer, taking it out piece by piece, but it's taking forwever!! There's go to be a smart way... I'm thinking I may try a pressure washer this weekend...

Novicaine? Might be exactly what your going to need to finish this job! :shock: Polyurethane closed cell foam used in boats is impervious to gas or solvents when cured so try the pressure washer, not sure how many PSI your going to need at the tip but start with 1500 to 1600 and a pin point spray. Unfortunately, this is still going to be a lot of work and you will probably end up using a scraper to get the residual off. Good luck! - Chris

Try a long handled pointed shovel, you can get some good leverage with one and usually pop out some pretty good sized chunks.

Also, try a drywall 'jab saw' and make several cuts, then break out the smaller pieces with your claw hammer or pry bar. Removing foam can definitely be a PITA

jigngrub said:

Try a long handled pointed shovel, you can get some good leverage with one and usually pop out some pretty good sized chunks.

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That worked perfectly, it all popped right out... thanks!!
Being able to drive it into the foam with my foot instead of jabbing like I had to do with hand tools really made all the difference.
And like you said, the flat shovel gives plenty of leverage without squishing into the foam you're pushing on.

Nice!

=D>

So after all that was the foam actually water logged?

krawler said:

So after all that was the foam actually water logged?

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X2

Going to guess it wasn't. otherwise it wouldn't have popped out. :mrgreen:

krawler said:

So after all that was the foam actually water logged?

Click to expand...

Yes, most of it was ... I pulled out about 6-8 30 gallon trash bags and each one weighed a lot ... I had to hold them with two hands to avoid them ripping. Maybe 30 lbs each?

I had a big hole in boat, and several leaks over the years, and the foam blocked the water from flowing back to the drain plug. So over time, the water couldn't go anywhere but into the foam. The boat hadn't been in the water for over a year, and the foam was still wet when I pulled up the floor. Bad design. On the other hand, the boat is 15 years old and has been beat to death on the shallow rivers.

Once I had all foam out and holes plugged, I partially filled the boat with water to check for leaks, and the water STILL wouldn't flow out the drain plug even with the front end real high. I had to use a bent rod to force all the foam out from under the stringers, and then it finally drained. "There's your problem".

Yep, foam clogging the gutters.....a very common design flaw with many boats. This flaw leads to waterlogged foam, and crevice corrosion which will eventually destroy a hull.

Of course, that's what they're counting on, which is why they intentionally design it this way. If they didn't....boats would last forever, and you'd never need to buy another one. Job security, dontcha know.

This is why I'm a huge fan of 1.5" or 2" extruded styrofoam panels that are cut to fit between ribs, as opposed to just pouring foam into the hull. If foam is poured in, there should be a provision for water drainage, such as a length of small diameter PVC tubing placed in each gutter, extending through the area where foam is to be poured. But again, manufacturers aren't concerned with doing things that extend the life of the boat, again, they're counting on it to fall apart in 5 years, so you can shell out some money for a new one, which will be built to the same exacting crappy standards.