Flooring idea thoughts

whistler · May 2, 2012

I've been thinking about putting an aluminum floor in my boat. Aluminum has gone up in price so much and finding someone that can or will do a quality job is tough in this area. With this in mind at this time it's almost cost prohibitive for me. I had a fellow tell me that he's seen some boats at a lake he fishes using the new decking materials. Just run them front to back and put the edges tight as there is no expansion or contraction is this material. This new decking is lighter than wood and rot would never be a problem. I know this stuff has no structural strength but with the ribs in boats being closer than the traditional joist on decks that should be no problem either. I know some of this material does get slick when wet which would have to be dealt with in some manner. Has this topic been discussed in someone's rebuilt or a stand alone topic that I missed any pics posted? thoughts?

Johny25 · May 2, 2012

I have laid down a lot of composite decking in the last 10yrs and the two biggest problems with this stuff is structural integrity and weight. This material is very heavy compared to wood, something like two to three times the weight of wood at a comparable size. And your stringers cannot be over 16" on center with this stuff or it flexes bad or breaks.

whistler · May 2, 2012

Johny25 said:
I have laid down a lot of composite decking in the last 10yrs and the two biggest problems with this stuff is structural integrity and weight. This material is very heavy compared to wood, something like two to three times the weight of wood at a comparable size. And your stringers cannot be over 16" on center with this stuff or it flexes bad or breaks.

I guess I had my figures crossed with the weight as you can see in my post, I thought it was lighter???? Most boat ribs that I've had are closer than 16" anyway so I wouldn't see that as a problem. You said they've been using these products for 10 years and that surprises me as I've not seen it, maybe I just didn't recognize it?

Johny25 · May 2, 2012

It has been out longer than 10 yrs. But that is about when I started using it for decking docks and decks on houses. It has its purpose for sure but in a boat I am not convinced of. Composite decking is made up of several materials including plastics. When compressed together it becomes very dense, heavy and somewhat brittle. It is also not cheap compared to wood and usually is on the order of 50% more expensive than typical wood.

There is an aluminum decking that I have seen that interlocks with itself and is supposedly water tight but I have never worked with it.

whistler · May 2, 2012

I really listened to that fellow and I though he might have given me an solution to my problem. :idea: After my post and Johny25's reply I started digging on the net. Seems there are quiet a few law suits and problem with some of the stuff used on decks and even some stores have quit handling it. Maybe I'm back to square 1. :?

Bugpac · May 3, 2012

The thing about the cost of alum vs wood etc, Alum cost more yes, but your only gonna do it once with alum.

Kismet · May 3, 2012

Right now, I'm kind of searching around for some dairy farm or industrial products that would be cost-effective and easy to maintain. I KNOW there is something that can be used. I remember reading, but can't find the post, of some guy in ?Florida? who found some perforated industrial plastic pieces that inter-locked ( I think, but maybe he just fastened them together) which fit nicely on his supports.

Dunno, for sure, but I'm positive with all the stuff that folks make for durable use in damp conditions in industries of one sort or another, there is something out there. Call it my "Grail."

Best wishes.

Johny25 · May 3, 2012

Maybe you are talking about this stuff? https://www.dockbuilders.com/thru-flow-decking.htm

Kismet · May 3, 2012

Johny25 said:
Maybe you are talking about this stuff? https://www.dockbuilders.com/thru-flow-decking.htm

No, Johny. I've seen that, but what this guy had was some stuff he rescued from some company's discards. The flow-decking is serious, dedicated, marine-use retail construction. The stuff I remember was adapted from another use. I knew I should have book-marked it.

xbacksideslider · May 3, 2012

I used 1/8" plywood underlayment with construction styrofoam sheet glued to it with contact cement. Stained it. Light, cheap, easy to remove for de-watering beneath, looks great, and durable so far - except heavy pointy things will punch through it.

2007NNBS · May 3, 2012

I used 1/8" aluminum and you will never regret using it. I recomend using aluminum

whistler · May 4, 2012

2007NNBS said:
I used 1/8" aluminum and you will never regret using it. I recomend using aluminum

I thought I posted yesterday in response to Bugpac post however it's not on here. Either got deleted or some computer/forum glitch. As I mentioned in my original post, I want Aluminum but cost and getting someone to do it properly is the problem! Actually getting someone to do it right is the biggest issue.

Bugpac · May 4, 2012

whistler said:
2007NNBS said:

I used 1/8" aluminum and you will never regret using it. I recomend using aluminum

Click to expand...

I thought I posted yesterday in response to Bugpac post however it's not on here. Either got deleted or some computer/forum glitch. As I mentioned in my original post, I want Aluminum but cost and getting someone to do it properly is the problem! Actually getting someone to do it right is the biggest issue.

I don't remember a reply, i think we can look to see if it was there and got deleted, Anyhow, how bout some pics, the floor is not hard to do, you could likely do it yourself. were abouts you at in Kentucky?

jigngrub · May 4, 2012

If you'll follow a few rules it's not that hard to build a plywood deck that will last a lifetime, but a lot of people don't understand that and turn to aluminum instead.

I can build a lifetime plywood deck for half or less $$$ than it's costs to build an aluminum one.

casey6 · May 4, 2012

jigngrub said:
If you'll follow a few rules it's not that hard to build a plywood deck that will last a lifetime, but a lot of people don't understand that and turn to aluminum instead.

I can build a lifetime plywood deck for half or less $$$ than it's costs to build an aluminum one.

Can you elaborate on these rules? I just bought a boat an I want to redo the front deck and make it a little longer.

bikeordie092 · May 4, 2012

i would say hes talking about building it, sealing it CORRECTLY, like sealing when you cut a hole, using sealer on the screws, so on and so forth, and putting on a good, durable finish... most people dont seal correctly, water gets in thru the holes one has cut for drainage and such, causing the wood to rot from the inside out... that and screws, water can get in around those if they arent sealed themselves.... more rot......

whistler · May 5, 2012

bugpac, I'm an hour or so S of Cincy. It's a rural area. I've asked several for recommendations but no one seems to know anyone nearby. I might try to look into doing it myself. For what I would be paying someone else I can buy some nice tools that would make the job easier for me.

Captain Ahab · May 5, 2012

casey6 said:
jigngrub said:

If you'll follow a few rules it's not that hard to build a plywood deck that will last a lifetime, but a lot of people don't understand that and turn to aluminum instead.

I can build a lifetime plywood deck for half or less $$$ than it's costs to build an aluminum one.

Click to expand...

Can you elaborate on these rules? I just bought a boat an I want to redo the front deck and make it a little longer.

I used a 2 part epoxy sealer and I think the wood will remain sealed for longer them my lifetime

You can get the epoxy sealer at Overtons

jigngrub · May 5, 2012

casey6 said:
jigngrub said:

If you'll follow a few rules it's not that hard to build a plywood deck that will last a lifetime, but a lot of people don't understand that and turn to aluminum instead.

I can build a lifetime plywood deck for half or less $$$ than it's costs to build an aluminum one.

Click to expand...

Can you elaborate on these rules? I just bought a boat an I want to redo the front deck and make it a little longer.

I'm glad you asked that. :wink:

1. Use a quality plywood decking. I like CCA pressure treated kiln dried ply the best, but it is hard to find and pricey at $70 a sheet... but it is the best. Second best is MDO waterproof ply, it's more readily available and cheaper at about $50 a sheet. Third choice is Aruco ABX, this is widely available at most big box home centers and is about $40 a sheet.

2. Sealer. 2 part epoxy is the very best sealer, and 3 or 4 coats of it is like a sheet of glass between your deck finish and ply. Epoxy is a very tough, durable, and long lasting sealer and is a must for a long lived deck job.
I buy mine here because they have the best price and service I've found anywhere:
https://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

3. Deck finish. A deck finish that sheds water instead of absorbing it is also a must. I prefer marine vinyl like Nautolex, other choices are products like Cabelas Tuff Cote, truck bed liner, and high quality marine grade paint.

4. Avoid, disregard, shun, nix, and give the finger to carpet. Carpet is the absolute worst thing you can put in a boat. It absorbs and retains moisture creating a damp atmosphere that is conducive to rot, mildew, and mold.

Bugpac · May 5, 2012

jigngrub said:
casey6 said:

jigngrub said:

If you'll follow a few rules it's not that hard to build a plywood deck that will last a lifetime, but a lot of people don't understand that and turn to aluminum instead.

I can build a lifetime plywood deck for half or less $$$ than it's costs to build an aluminum one.

Click to expand...

Can you elaborate on these rules? I just bought a boat an I want to redo the front deck and make it a little longer.

Click to expand...

I'm glad you asked that. :wink:

1. Use a quality plywood decking. I like CCA pressure treated kiln dried ply the best, but it is hard to find and pricey at $70 a sheet... but it is the best. Second best is MDO waterproof ply, it's more readily available and cheaper at about $50 a sheet. Third choice is Aruco ABX, this is widely available at most big box home centers and is about $40 a sheet.

2. Sealer. 2 part epoxy is the very best sealer, and 3 or 4 coats of it is like a sheet of glass between your deck finish and ply. Epoxy is a very tough, durable, and long lasting sealer and is a must for a long lived deck job.
I buy mine here because they have the best price and service I've found anywhere:
https://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

3. Deck finish. A deck finish that sheds water instead of absorbing it is also a must. I prefer marine vinyl like Nautolex, other choices are products like Cabelas Tuff Cote, truck bed liner, and high quality marine grade paint.

4. Avoid, disregard, shun, nix, and give the finger to carpet. Carpet is the absolute worst thing you can put in a boat. It absorbs and retains moisture creating a damp atmosphere that is conducive to rot, mildew, and mold.

If you can, elaborate your entire cost to seal a 4 a 8 sheet of wood, you say half price, i just wanna see how close we are to that.

Lets start with the 70.00 sheet off wood, and go from there since this is what you prefer.

Flooring idea thoughts

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