Marine vinyl - costs, installation quirks, costs, etc. ?

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DaveInGA

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After looking at the various options, I'm looking real strongly at using marine vinyl as my flooring in my boat. In particular, I think I want to use Nautolex brand, but would consider other brands and want to hear about them if anyone knows of another brand that's out there. I've already ruled out carpet and most roll on and spray-in "bedliner" type coatings.

I'm mostly concerned with what glues one must have to glue these in and if there's a less expensive alternative, as a gallon of the adhesive seems to run to about half to a third the cost of the vinyl.

So if you have any information related to marine vinyl, it's installation, tricks, tips, etc. or information on the glues needed to install, please help me out.

Thank you for your help,
 
I went from carpet to vinyl last fall in my Tracker:

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=21629

As for cost, the best price I could find online was here:
https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1%7C10918%7C311409&id=311410

Installation quirks, there's a few.

1. The difference in the thickness of carpet and vinyl will affect your opening and deck size, it'll make your openings bigger than they need to be and your deck pieces a little smaller if you use your old plywood decking for templates. I got around this by using firring strips of wood to make my openings smaller and deck pieces larger.

I installed aluminum angle on my hatch covers as trim to hide some of the gap. I installed the angle on my hatch covers and with counter sunk closed end blind rivets on 4" centers. Closed end blind rivets are much stronger than the open end rivets.

I used the Nautolex 88 adhesive for my larger pieces because it is a more forgiving adhesive because the bond isn't instant like contact cement. The 88 adhesive is water based and is a much slower cure and bond and requires the edges to be wrapped around to the back of the deck piece and stapled. there's no need to staple with contact cement.

With experience and hindsight, I'd have used contact cement for everything if I knew then what I know now. I you choose to go with contact cement start with your smaller pieces first so you can get the "feel" for how you have to work with it.

Proper tools are a must for a good vinyl job. You will need a hand held carpet roller and a laminate roller to remove any air bubbles under the vinyl and to embed the vinyl into the adhesive on either adhesive you choose.
DSC02229.jpg

These tools can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes.

I covered all of my deck pieces individually and then fastened each piece to the deck framing with rivets. I did this so I could remove all or some of my decking without ruining my vinyl, and all I'll have to do is rerivet the decking down when I put the boat back together. Anyone that owns an aluminum boat should realize that you will probably have to get below deck sometime in the future for something (repairs or modifications).

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
 
jigngrub,

I quoted you and posted some response/questions in red in the quote. Thank you for posting. The information helps a lot.

jigngrub said:
I went from carpet to vinyl last fall in my Tracker:

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=21629

Where's the finishing pictures? I woulda loved to look at them. From the post below, I think you had some great ideas and would love to see more pictures.

As for cost, the best price I could find online was here:
https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1%7C10918%7C311409&id=311410

I am going to have to price delivered prices from a couple of places. Do these folks charge shipping as well? I found a place in South Georgia that has cheaper prices, but they will likely charge tax and shipping. They are too far away to go pick it up, as I'm in Northeast Georgia.

Installation quirks, there's a few.

1. The difference in the thickness of carpet and vinyl will affect your opening and deck size, it'll make your openings bigger than they need to be and your deck pieces a little smaller if you use your old plywood decking for templates.

I'm not able to use my original wood, as it's long since rotted out, so I'm going back in with .125" aluminum flooring. I do think I'm going to have some gap issues with aluminum deck lids that were covered with carpet. I have five storage or deck lids that had aluminum "trim" and carpet covered wood inserts I'm going to replace the wood with plastic decking, so I should only have an area or two with an issue, probably on the back deck.

I got around this by using firring strips of wood to make my openings smaller and deck pieces larger.

My biggest concerns will be in the center floor, where I'm likely going to have to butt two sections of aluminum together. I'm debating splicing the two sections with a strip of aluminum and rivets in that section so I can go "wall to wall" with the vinyl flooring.

I installed aluminum angle on my hatch covers as trim to hide some of the gap.
Most of my hatches are the little storage units with wood lids that already had trim, but thank you for posting this, as I can use it in areas where I don't have the trim, such as on the back deck. I think I have just enough aluminum angle to do this.

I installed the angle on my hatch covers and with counter sunk closed end blind rivets on 4" centers. Closed end blind rivets are much stronger than the open end rivets.
I'm going to copy what you've done here in areas where I need to do so. Sounds like a simple, positive solution. Debating a coating/paint for the trim though, to reduce glare.

I used the Nautolex 88 adhesive for my larger pieces because it is a more forgiving adhesive because the bond isn't instant like contact cement. The 88 adhesive is water based and is a much slower cure and bond and requires the edges to be wrapped around to the back of the deck piece and stapled. there's no need to staple with contact cement.
This would be a problem for me, as I can't staple aluminum too good. Could rivet it though.

With experience and hindsight, I'd have used contact cement for everything if I knew then what I know now. If you choose to go with contact cement start with your smaller pieces first so you can get the "feel" for how you have to work with it.
What brand of contact cement would you recommend and how much do you think I would need for a 17 ft. boat? Some of this stuff is pretty pricey.

Proper tools are a must for a good vinyl job. You will need a hand held carpet roller and a laminate roller to remove any air bubbles under the vinyl and to embed the vinyl into the adhesive on either adhesive you choose.
DSC02229.jpg

These tools can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes.
Makes sense. I've installed carpet before and the installation tools were a big part of it. How much did those two tools run you ballpark?

I covered all of my deck pieces individually and then fastened each piece to the deck framing with rivets. I did this so I could remove all or some of my decking without ruining my vinyl, and all I'll have to do is rerivet the decking down when I put the boat back together. Anyone that owns an aluminum boat should realize that you will probably have to get below deck sometime in the future for something (repairs or modifications).
I really like this idea and will probably do the same thing with my rivets. i think if I fold the vinyl over the flooring edges, then glue it below decks, it should hold better and present a more finished look. Would you recommend some rivets along the edge to help with holding?

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
1. Would you recommend the vinyl for the flooring as well as areas such as rod lockers where people may possibly sit or lean on?
2. What do you think about painting vertical surfaces to reduce the amount of vinyl flooring needed and only put the vinyl on horizontal surfaces?
3. In case it gets lost in the shuffler, what brand of contact cement would you recommend?

Thanks for your help,
 
You guys got me looking. Found this site and a list of folks who make variations.

Anyone ever use it? The cork one looks kinda neat. Site seems to be for BIG boats. :)

Opinions?

https://www.myboatsgear.com/featured_product/synthetic%20decking.asp
 
DaveInGA said:
jigngrub,

I quoted you and posted some response/questions in red in the quote. Thank you for posting. The information helps a lot.

jigngrub said:
I went from carpet to vinyl last fall in my Tracker:

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=21629

Where's the finishing pictures? I woulda loved to look at them. From the post below, I think you had some great ideas and would love to see more pictures.... dang, thought I'd updated that, but you can see them here https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=509163

As for cost, the best price I could find online was here:
https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1%7C10918%7C311409&id=311410

I am going to have to price delivered prices from a couple of places. Do these folks charge shipping as well? I found a place in South Georgia that has cheaper prices, but they will likely charge tax and shipping. They are too far away to go pick it up, as I'm in Northeast Georgia.... They charge shipping but no tax, I forget what the shipping was but it wasn'r bad and very quick service and excellent packaging.

Installation quirks, there's a few.

1. The difference in the thickness of carpet and vinyl will affect your opening and deck size, it'll make your openings bigger than they need to be and your deck pieces a little smaller if you use your old plywood decking for templates.

I'm not able to use my original wood, as it's long since rotted out, so I'm going back in with .125" aluminum flooring. I do think I'm going to have some gap issues with aluminum deck lids that were covered with carpet. I have five storage or deck lids that had aluminum "trim" and carpet covered wood inserts I'm going to replace the wood with plastic decking, so I should only have an area or two with an issue, probably on the back deck.

I got around this by using firring strips of wood to make my openings smaller and deck pieces larger.

My biggest concerns will be in the center floor, where I'm likely going to have to butt two sections of aluminum together. I'm debating splicing the two sections with a strip of aluminum and rivets in that section so I can go "wall to wall" with the vinyl flooring.

I installed aluminum angle on my hatch covers as trim to hide some of the gap.
Most of my hatches are the little storage units with wood lids that already had trim, but thank you for posting this, as I can use it in areas where I don't have the trim, such as on the back deck. I think I have just enough aluminum angle to do this.

I installed the angle on my hatch covers and with counter sunk closed end blind rivets on 4" centers. Closed end blind rivets are much stronger than the open end rivets.
I'm going to copy what you've done here in areas where I need to do so. Sounds like a simple, positive solution. Debating a coating/paint for the trim though, to reduce glare.

I used the Nautolex 88 adhesive for my larger pieces because it is a more forgiving adhesive because the bond isn't instant like contact cement. The 88 adhesive is water based and is a much slower cure and bond and requires the edges to be wrapped around to the back of the deck piece and stapled. there's no need to staple with contact cement.
This would be a problem for me, as I can't staple aluminum too good. Could rivet it though.

With experience and hindsight, I'd have used contact cement for everything if I knew then what I know now. If you choose to go with contact cement start with your smaller pieces first so you can get the "feel" for how you have to work with it.
What brand of contact cement would you recommend and how much do you think I would need for a 17 ft. boat? Some of this stuff is pretty pricey.... I used the Weldwood contact cement in the metal can and brushed it on with a chip brush. It's about $40 a gallon at Home Depot. Your aluminum will only need one coat, but the vinyl needs 2 coats because the backing absorbs most of the first coat. A gallon should go pretty far if it doesn't do your whole boat. Other people that have installed this vinyl on their projects have used the contact cement in the spray can with good results, but it's more expensive than the brush on.

Proper tools are a must for a good vinyl job. You will need a hand held carpet roller and a laminate roller to remove any air bubbles under the vinyl and to embed the vinyl into the adhesive on either adhesive you choose.
DSC02229.jpg

These tools can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes.
Makes sense. I've installed carpet before and the installation tools were a big part of it. How much did those two tools run you ballpark? The big roller was $30 and small one was $12 I think.

I covered all of my deck pieces individually and then fastened each piece to the deck framing with rivets. I did this so I could remove all or some of my decking without ruining my vinyl, and all I'll have to do is rerivet the decking down when I put the boat back together. Anyone that owns an aluminum boat should realize that you will probably have to get below deck sometime in the future for something (repairs or modifications).
I really like this idea and will probably do the same thing with my rivets. i think if I fold the vinyl over the flooring edges, then glue it below decks, it should hold better and present a more finished look. Would you recommend some rivets along the edge to help with holding? You don't need mechanical fasteners if you use the contact cement, just leave about 2" of vinyl to fold around to the back of your aluminum piece and glue it with the contact cement.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
1. Would you recommend the vinyl for the flooring as well as areas such as rod lockers where people may possibly sit or lean on? Yes, it is extremely durable.
2. What do you think about painting vertical surfaces to reduce the amount of vinyl flooring needed and only put the vinyl on horizontal surfaces?That will work too, but I did my verticals in vinyl too. You'll have some scrap leftover and the more places you can put it the cheaper the job costs.
3. In case it gets lost in the shuffler, what brand of contact cement would you recommend?
Weldwood in the metal can

Thanks for your help,

My answers are in bold after your red questions.

Theres no need to staple if you use the contact cement, if you decide on the Nautolex 88 you can tape the edges to hold them on your aluminum instead of stapling.
 
Kismet said:
You guys got me looking. Found this site and a list of folks who make variations.

Anyone ever use it? The cork one looks kinda neat. Site seems to be for BIG boats. :)

Opinions?

https://www.myboatsgear.com/featured_product/synthetic%20decking.asp

Get us a price on that fancy stuff and let's see how much it is Kiz.
 
Jigngrub,

I quoted your quote and posted some additional response/questions in blue below. Thank you for answering. The additional information helps a lot. The contact cement you recommend is also cheaper than the Natolex brand.

jigngrub said:
I went from carpet to vinyl last fall in my Tracker:

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=21629

Where's the finishing pictures? I woulda loved to look at them. From the post below, I think you had some great ideas and would love to see more pictures.... dang, thought I'd updated that, but you can see them here https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=509163
I'm gonna go check them out.

As for cost, the best price I could find online was here:
https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1%7C10918%7C311409&id=311410

I am going to have to price delivered prices from a couple of places. Do these folks charge shipping as well? I found a place in South Georgia that has cheaper prices, but they will likely charge tax and shipping. They are too far away to go pick it up, as I'm in Northeast Georgia.... They charge shipping but no tax, I forget what the shipping was but it wasn'r bad and very quick service and excellent packaging.
I am betting that finding a balance between product price and shipping charges is going to make a big difference.

Installation quirks, there's a few.

1. The difference in the thickness of carpet and vinyl will affect your opening and deck size, it'll make your openings bigger than they need to be and your deck pieces a little smaller if you use your old plywood decking for templates.

I'm not able to use my original wood, as it's long since rotted out, so I'm going back in with .125" aluminum flooring. I do think I'm going to have some gap issues with aluminum deck lids that were covered with carpet. I have five storage or deck lids that had aluminum "trim" and carpet covered wood inserts I'm going to replace the wood with plastic decking, so I should only have an area or two with an issue, probably on the back deck.

I got around this by using firring strips of wood to make my openings smaller and deck pieces larger.

My biggest concerns will be in the center floor, where I'm likely going to have to butt two sections of aluminum together. I'm debating splicing the two sections with a strip of aluminum and rivets in that section so I can go "wall to wall" with the vinyl flooring.

I installed aluminum angle on my hatch covers as trim to hide some of the gap.
Most of my hatches are the little storage units with wood lids that already had trim, but thank you for posting this, as I can use it in areas where I don't have the trim, such as on the back deck. I think I have just enough aluminum angle to do this.

I installed the angle on my hatch covers and with counter sunk closed end blind rivets on 4" centers. Closed end blind rivets are much stronger than the open end rivets.
I'm going to copy what you've done here in areas where I need to do so. Sounds like a simple, positive solution. Debating a coating/paint for the trim though, to reduce glare.

I used the Nautolex 88 adhesive for my larger pieces because it is a more forgiving adhesive because the bond isn't instant like contact cement. The 88 adhesive is water based and is a much slower cure and bond and requires the edges to be wrapped around to the back of the deck piece and stapled. there's no need to staple with contact cement.
This would be a problem for me, as I can't staple aluminum too good. Could rivet it though.

With experience and hindsight, I'd have used contact cement for everything if I knew then what I know now. If you choose to go with contact cement start with your smaller pieces first so you can get the "feel" for how you have to work with it.
What brand of contact cement would you recommend and how much do you think I would need for a 17 ft. boat? Some of this stuff is pretty pricey.... I used the Weldwood contact cement in the metal can and brushed it on with a chip brush. It's about $40 a gallon at Home Depot. Your aluminum will only need one coat, but the vinyl needs 2 coats because the backing absorbs most of the first coat. A gallon should go pretty far if it doesn't do your whole boat. Other people that have installed this vinyl on their projects have used the contact cement in the spray can with good results, but it's more expensive than the brush on.
This is about $30.00 cheaper than average prices I've seen on the 88 adhesive. I'll probably just go with it, as I've got some experience dealing with glues, etc. from doing gunsmithing repairs on wood stocks.

Proper tools are a must for a good vinyl job. You will need a hand held carpet roller and a laminate roller to remove any air bubbles under the vinyl and to embed the vinyl into the adhesive on either adhesive you choose.
DSC02229.jpg

These tools can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes.
Makes sense. I've installed carpet before and the installation tools were a big part of it. How much did those two tools run you ballpark? The big roller was $30 and small one was $12 I think.
Those aren't bad prices to make things a lot easier to do.

I covered all of my deck pieces individually and then fastened each piece to the deck framing with rivets. I did this so I could remove all or some of my decking without ruining my vinyl, and all I'll have to do is rerivet the decking down when I put the boat back together. Anyone that owns an aluminum boat should realize that you will probably have to get below deck sometime in the future for something (repairs or modifications).
I really like this idea and will probably do the same thing with my rivets. i think if I fold the vinyl over the flooring edges, then glue it below decks, it should hold better and present a more finished look. Would you recommend some rivets along the edge to help with holding? You don't need mechanical fasteners if you use the contact cement, just leave about 2" of vinyl to fold around to the back of your aluminum piece and glue it with the contact cement.
That's not bad at all. I wanted to do that in most cases anyways. The measure three times and cut looks like it'll be in order here, especially on the big sections.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
1. Would you recommend the vinyl for the flooring as well as areas such as rod lockers where people may possibly sit or lean on? Yes, it is extremely durable.
Fantastic, saves buying multiple materials.

2. What do you think about painting vertical surfaces to reduce the amount of vinyl flooring needed and only put the vinyl on horizontal surfaces?That will work too, but I did my verticals in vinyl too. You'll have some scrap leftover and the more places you can put it the cheaper the job costs.
The trick for me will be getting it trimmed for places like the rod locker exterior and "lip" areas. I'm not totally crafty with carpet/vinyl flooring stuff. Not my bag.

3. In case it gets lost in the shuffler, what brand of contact cement would you recommend?
Weldwood in the metal can
Great, that stuff is available everywhere.

Theres no need to staple if you use the contact cement, if you decide on the Nautolex 88 you can tape the edges to hold them on your aluminum instead of stapling.
Either of which is a good solution. I think I'm going for the contact cement though, unless you can tell me a reason not to.[/quote]

Thanks again,
 
The pictures of the finished tin look good. Wouldn't having vinyl on the floor be slick when It got wet? Also wouldn't it be hotter on the feet than carpet?
 
Gramps50 said:
The pictures of the finished tin look good. Wouldn't having vinyl on the floor be slick when It got wet? Also wouldn't it be hotter on the feet than carpet?

This isn't your household kitchen and bathroom floor vinyl, it's a textured vinyl that's very slip resistant... as a matter of fact it can be considered abrasive. If you ball up your fist and press your knuckles against my vinyl deck and then drag them quickly across it you will have skinned knuckles that will bleed. It's a smoothe pebble grain to the light touch, but abrasive under pressure.

I have the light storm gray in my boat and it isn't any hotter than carpet of the same color.
 
From looking at how ,my carpeting is wearing already (I think it's from Lowes) I guess it will need to be replace by the end of the season. I like the vinyl idea. How does it handle hooks, I know it's pretty easy to get snagged in the carpet that I have.

I requested some samples to see what it looks like.

It's amazing what you learn reading these forums.

Thanks guys
 
Gramps50 said:
From looking at how ,my carpeting is wearing already (I think it's from Lowes) I guess it will need to be replace by the end of the season. I like the vinyl idea. How does it handle hooks, I know it's pretty easy to get snagged in the carpet that I have.

I requested some samples to see what it looks like.

It's amazing what you learn reading these forums.

Thanks guys

Hooks don't snag in vinyl, this isn't a cushiony vinyl. This is a hard surface vinyl, the finish is just as hard as the plywood beneath it.

I suggest gluing your samples to a piece of plywood when you get them so you can feel the finished product.
 
I have seen a lot of bew boats are coming with vinyl. A lot of them have carpeted decks and vinyl on the main floor with carpet on top of all the cabnets etc... I like the "two tone" look of that and gives a lot of the boat the softer feel with the hard traffic areas the ease of cleaning.

I know nothing about installing it though. I went with carpet for the homey feeling of it. Maybe the next one ill do the carpet/vinyl someday.
 
we had a member last yr do a hook test on some deco dot flooring.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17685&hilit=vinyl+flooring&start=15
 
I used the Nautolex Vinyl on my build over the winter. Link here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22554&start=120.

I love the final look and effect. I used the nautolex 88 and had very good results with. I used the 3m Super 90 spray can to hold the edges down I wouldn't suggest this to someone else doing it. I've had some issues with some of the wrapped edges coming unglued from the aluminum. Seems to be an issue with the adhesion of the Super 90 with the aluminum. Luckily, the areas that I can see the separation are accessible and can be redone later, the other areas aren't visible and are mostly mechanically trapped as well.

I used a rolling pin instead of the fancy carpet rollers. Worked just as well in my opinion.

I'm glad to answer any questions you might have. There's tons of info in my build thread though.

Good luck!
 
Got some Nautolex samples in the mail today. Now I see why it isn't slick when wet. Has a nice texture to it. I have yet to put it down on the floor and walk in it but just feeling it doesn't appear that it would be hard on the bare feet.

I think I will seriously consider using it when it's time to replace the carpet.
 
kofkorn said:
I used the Nautolex Vinyl on my build over the winter. Link here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22554&start=120.

I love the final look and effect. I used the nautolex 88 and had very good results with. I used the 3m Super 90 spray can to hold the edges down I wouldn't suggest this to someone else doing it. I've had some issues with some of the wrapped edges coming unglued from the aluminum. Seems to be an issue with the adhesion of the Super 90 with the aluminum. Luckily, the areas that I can see the separation are accessible and can be redone later, the other areas aren't visible and are mostly mechanically trapped as well.

I used a rolling pin instead of the fancy carpet rollers. Worked just as well in my opinion.

I'm glad to answer any questions you might have. There's tons of info in my build thread though.

Good luck!

Thank you for posting a link to your thread. Gave me lots of ideas and I saw a lot of similarities in your boat and mine, both of them being Trackers. I'm sure I'll have some questions in the future about the nautolex. Based on your build, I'm leaning now towards 11 yards or 33 feet of vinyl.

As far as glue, I'm thinking more along the lines of contact cement. The nautolex glue is expensive, isn't available locally and extremely slow to dry. I don't think I have the patience to use it, especially when jigngrub has had good success with the contact cement that's available locally and cheaper.
 
DaveInGA said:
kofkorn said:
I used the Nautolex Vinyl on my build over the winter. Link here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22554&start=120.

I love the final look and effect. I used the nautolex 88 and had very good results with. I used the 3m Super 90 spray can to hold the edges down I wouldn't suggest this to someone else doing it. I've had some issues with some of the wrapped edges coming unglued from the aluminum. Seems to be an issue with the adhesion of the Super 90 with the aluminum. Luckily, the areas that I can see the separation are accessible and can be redone later, the other areas aren't visible and are mostly mechanically trapped as well.

I used a rolling pin instead of the fancy carpet rollers. Worked just as well in my opinion.

I'm glad to answer any questions you might have. There's tons of info in my build thread though.

Good luck!

Thank you for posting a link to your thread. Gave me lots of ideas and I saw a lot of similarities in your boat and mine, both of them being Trackers. I'm sure I'll have some questions in the future about the nautolex. Based on your build, I'm leaning now towards 11 yards or 33 feet of vinyl.

As far as glue, I'm thinking more along the lines of contact cement. The nautolex glue is expensive, isn't available locally and extremely slow to dry. I don't think I have the patience to use it, especially when jigngrub has had good success with the contact cement that's available locally and cheaper.

Just remember, 2 coats of contact cement on the vinyl. I'm pretty sure that was Kofkorns problem with the contact cement, only one coat of CC won't work because the vinyl backing absorbs it.

You should also scuff your aluminum up with a wire brush in a grinder or even a Scotchbrite pad and soap and water before applying adhesive so it'll have something to grip. Adhesives don't like to stick to slick shiny surfaces.
 
jigngrub said:
Just remember, 2 coats of contact cement on the vinyl. I'm pretty sure that was Kofkorns problem with the contact cement, only one coat of CC won't work because the vinyl backing absorbs it.

You should also scuff your aluminum up with a wire brush in a grinder or even a Scotchbrite pad and soap and water before applying adhesive so it'll have something to grip. Adhesives don't like to stick to slick shiny surfaces.
You might want to check out my rebuild thread. I don't think I'm going to have a problem with any slick shiny surfaces on my boat. :lol:
 
Here is a question for those that have done it. If you were to vinyl a flat surface, say a hatch lid, without folding any edges, and running a razor knife tight to the edge to trim. What do you think the outcome would be, Good, bad or ugly? I'm giving vinyl some serious thought, But I do not want to wrap.
 

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