Transom Rot Help!

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Bluegrassman28

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My uncle recently gave me a 1980's 14' alumacraft with 4.5 merc.(brown sticker) just above the plug the transom wood is chipping away it's not completely gone but I think it needs to be replaced. What do I do. It seems like you have to remove rivets because of the u shaped rear seat design. I'm in the Lexington ky Area, I am fairly handy but I am afraid of drilling out and replacing rivets. Does anyone know a pro in the area.

Thanks
 
Some body shops will work on them but I don't know of any of the boat places around here that do rivets, I live just down the road in Frankfort. I have always just drilled them out and replaced them with stainless steel bolts.
 
You might check the boat section in Craigslist for that area. I know there is a fellar in the Louisville area that has an add in the boat section.

Lonny
 
Post some pictures maybe we can talk you through the processes of replacing the transom wood.
 
Not sure how to get the photos up directly here is the links via photo bucket

https://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p628/bluegrassman28/photo4.jpg
https://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p628/bluegrassman28/photo3.jpg
https://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p628/bluegrassman28/photo2.jpg
https://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p628/bluegrassman28/photo1.jpg
 
At Photobucket, when you move your cursor to an image, four codes appear underneath. The bottom one will change to "copied" when you move your cursor it. In another window, bring the cursor to the post, and click "paste," and the post will transfer the image to the published post.

Good Luck.
 
Bluegrassman28 said:
My uncle recently gave me a 1980's 14' alumacraft with 4.5 merc.(brown sticker) just above the plug the transom wood is chipping away it's not completely gone but I think it needs to be replaced. What do I do. It seems like you have to remove rivets because of the u shaped rear seat design. I'm in the Lexington ky Area, I am fairly handy but I am afraid of drilling out and replacing rivets. Does anyone know a pro in the area.

Thanks

Don't be afraid of the rivets, rivets are your friend... especially when you own a riveted boat!

Here's an easy way to install rivets:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0MA1-5NXjs&feature=related

A good rivet setting tool and a selection of closed end blind rivets can come in very handy when owning an aluminum boat.
 
Questions ...
Someone offered to do it for 150-200 bucks is that too high?
Also what type of rivet tool is he using in the video, how would half inch rivets go through the thick transom wood and does anyone know where to buy marine plywood in Lexington?

Thanks
 
photo2.jpg


For starters, if you are nervous about doing it yourself, and you can get the whole job done correctly for $150 .... that's a good way to go. In fact, its most likely cheaper than buying tools and materials to do it yourself.

$150 actually seems quite cheap for a complete transom replacement. Make sure that includes removing the aluminum boxes to access the wood, removing the wood, replacing it with the correct size wood that has been properly sealed, and putting it all back together without leaks.

If you do decide to do it yourself .... like was mentioned .... this board can easily walk your through it.

Good luck either way!
 
Never use Pressure Treated Wood on an aluminum boat.
You don't need Marine ply either Exterior grade plywood will work just fine.
 
Bluegrassman28 said:
Questions ...
Someone offered to do it for 150-200 bucks is that too high?
That seems very inexpensively. But if he's doing it that cheap, is he removing all the aluminum parts correctly, using outdoor or marine plywood, coating the plywood in epoxy (including drilling the holes oversize, filling them with epoxy and redrilling them), using rivets or stainless steel bolts (with 5200 to properly seal it) etc.?

Also what type of rivet tool is he using in the video, how would half inch rivets go through the thick transom wood
No, half inch rivets won't, but longer rivets can be purchased, both solid and pop rivets. One only needs the proper tool to set them - either a rivet gun or a rivet hammer (solid rivets). For one or two solid rivets, a punch can be bought without a gun and a hammer can be used in place of the rivet gun.

and does anyone know where to buy marine plywood in Lexington?
You don't need marine plywood. You can use outdoor plywood. Whatever you use would best be sealed with fiberglass epoxy resin (or at least spar urethane).

Thanks

Looking at your pics, I would grind of the head of the rivets with an angle grinder, knock them out with a punch, then carefully remove enough of the metal to get the old wood out and the new wood in. Once I fitted the new wood and drilled the hole oversize, I would seal the wood with marine epoxy, including the holes, then re-drill the holes so they are sealed too.

Once that's done, I'd buy stainless steel bolts/nylock nuts/washers and use 5200 to seal the holes.

That would be a great repair and would last a very long time. If it ever failed again, the stainless steel bolts would make it easy to replace the transom next time.
 
More Questions...

1) drilling oversized, what exactly do you mean by this and what does that do? If I do this job I think I am going with the stainless steal bolts. Is the 1/4 inch holes from the rivets not large enough?
2) where do I get the 3m5200?
3)where do I get marine epoxy for sealing the wood and what is the brand or what is it called?
4) the way I am looking at it I will have to remove both boxes which will require removing rivets on the bottom of the boat, is this a concern?
5)should I recess the nut side of the bolt in the wood ir just let them stick out?
6)It looks like I need 1 inch thick wood to replace the transom, should I buy outdoor plywood (which I didnt know existed I thought there was just pressure treated and marine grade) or is there a 1x12 board I could buy since I dont really need a whole sheet of plywood that thick.
7)Can you elaborate on the application of the sealant, do you put it on the bolt alone or on the bolt, the nut, and the head side. Basically how excessive do you get with the 5200.

Thank you all for this help this is one of the most impressive forums I have ever seen on the net. I hope I learn enough in the process to help others down the road.

Thanks Again,
Cj
 
Bluegrassman28 said:
More Questions...

1) drilling oversized, what exactly do you mean by this and what does that do? If I do this job I think I am going with the stainless steal bolts. Is the 1/4 inch holes from the rivets not large enough?
2) where do I get the 3m5200?
3)where do I get marine epoxy for sealing the wood and what is the brand or what is it called?
4) the way I am looking at it I will have to remove both boxes which will require removing rivets on the bottom of the boat, is this a concern?
5)should I recess the nut side of the bolt in the wood ir just let them stick out?
6)It looks like I need 1 inch thick wood to replace the transom, should I buy outdoor plywood (which I didnt know existed I thought there was just pressure treated and marine grade) or is there a 1x12 board I could buy since I dont really need a whole sheet of plywood that thick.
7)Can you elaborate on the application of the sealant, do you put it on the bolt alone or on the bolt, the nut, and the head side. Basically how excessive do you get with the 5200.

Thank you all for this help this is one of the most impressive forums I have ever seen on the net. I hope I learn enough in the process to help others down the road.

Thanks Again,
Cj

1 - that refers to oversized holes in the transom board. if you are using 1/4" bolts, you would drill a 3/4" or 1" hole through the transom board where the bolt will go through. then you will fill that 3/4" or 1" hole with epoxy with filler (wood flour, microspheres or something similar). then you drill the epoxy plug with a 1/4" drill and put your bolt through. the epoxy plug around the bolt provides a stronger attachment point as well as prevents any water from seeping into the wood.

2 - home depot or lowes in the paint department by the glues or a marina/boat shop, etc

3 - online somewhere, there are lots of kinds. a lot of guys use west system products.

4 - removing rivets under the water line isn't really a big deal as long as you put a rivet back in there and seal it up well

5 - don't inset the nuts, that would weaken the board. use some fender washers to spread the load.

6 - this has been a matter of debate on here in the past, but either way should be fine as long as you seal it up well and protect it from water. if you use plywood, don't use pressure treated (may react with the aluminum), use marine or exterior grade.

7 - put a good amount around the shank of the bolt. install the bolt, and as it pulls down, you should get a nice bead of 5200 all the way around the head. if you put oversized epoxy filled holes in the transom, that'll do it. if you skip the epoxy plugs, i would use some 5200 on the nut side too just to make sure the transom is sealed.
 
The two previous posters have good advise..I would not hesitate to do it yourself. By using ss bolts with nylocs you can somewhat easily replace in the future. I would use west 105 or similar marine resin to seal the wood before you re-install. If you do it correctly you will have years of use before you have to replace again. I would say that you could buy all the materials needed for less than 150 bucks, therefore saving you some money to be spent on other boat repairs.
 
Answers in red inside your quote. I'm just adding a bit to what acabtp was saying.

Bluegrassman28 said:
More Questions...

4) the way I am looking at it I will have to remove both boxes which will require removing rivets on the bottom of the boat, is this a concern?
Shouldn't be, but generally, there is a way to remove the transom from the top of the transom area, aka the "caps". If the transom area caps are welded, grind through the welds and get the transom caps off. Once you're done with the repair, you can rivet them back on using a closed end rivet or you can have them welded them back on. Either way will work.

This is somewhat a personal preference, but if it were me, I would remove the transom caps to remove the transom and leave the boxes and the bottom rivets alone. Why? Simple location. Much less likely to cause a leak from a bad transom cap rivet installation than on the bottom of the boat.


5)should I recess the nut side of the bolt in the wood ir just let them stick out?
Let them stick out, use a stainless steel fender washer and make good measurements, so you can get a nut bolt that won't stick out much. Once you're done installing them, cut off any major excess and touch up the tip of the bolt with a file.


6)It looks like I need 1 inch thick wood to replace the transom, should I buy outdoor plywood (which I didnt know existed I thought there was just pressure treated and marine grade) or is there a 1x12 board I could buy since I dont really need a whole sheet of plywood that thick.
Two options to make up thickness:

1. Laminate two pieces of plywood together to make up the thickness. Plywood is no longer sold in English measurements, so you'll have to be satisfied with "close." Probably a sheet of the current "half inch." You will need to use waterproof glue such as Gorilla Glue or Titebond III. Cut the plywood to shape, apply lots of glue between sheets, stick together with a nice weight and wait to dry per glue instructions. Wipe off any excess while still wet.

2. If you have a local supplier of hardwoods, is to have them cut you a piece of oak board the exact thickness you need. It will be more expensive than the plywood, but will be an exact fit and will look very nice. You'll need to coat with epoxy per earlier instructions same as the plywood to prevent rot.


7)Can you elaborate on the application of the sealant, do you put it on the bolt alone or on the bolt, the nut, and the head side. Basically how excessive do you get with the 5200. Put enough on so it seals completely. That usually means it squeezes out a little on each side and forms a tiny donut around the head of the bolt and the nut.

BTW, you also want to go over to the conversion and mods section of the forum and read through as many of the rebuilds as you can. You're going to see lots of folks working through transom replacements and see commentary and suggestions. You will see people who are doing exactly what we are suggesting above. Once you've seen how they handle it in the pictures, you'll be able to go and do it on your boat and get good results.
 
I did my transom last year, Took lots of advice from the past builds/repairs. I have ZERO experience in boat repair but I think it came out well, In retrospect I feel I should have listen more closely and not worried about the budget so much. All in all I pulled it off with no leaks. took a few days start to finish. If I can get it done, Im sure you can, Just listen to these guys they know what they are talking about.
 

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