I believe I have solved the Jon boat seat clamp problems!!!

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Eddie Bait

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I have a 14' 1972 aluminum deep V, with 3 bench seats. I have been looking to find ways to attach a boat seat to the aluminum bench seat. I have read many different ways to do this from building a wood box around the bench seat to cutting a main center hole in the seat to using T-bolts, expanding bolts, etc.

I have also read that the typical swivel clamp that you buy at Cabelas tends to slip off the bench for us bigger guys who like to lean back. That big guy is me, and I don't have gills, so I would prefer to stay in the boat. This slipping issue seems to be a big problem for all kinds of people, according to the google research that I have done. The clamp can be seen here: https://www.cabelas.com/product/Boat-Seat-Swivel-Clamp/700641.uts

My issue is, that I want to keep my boat as light as possible, for performance and because I fish some bad boat landing lakes and rivers. Therefore I don't want to be adding Marine grade plywood to it. I also don't want to drill holes into the bench seat, because hardware pulls out of aluminum and my particular boat was built with a very light aluminum for the bench seats compared to the aluminum they use for jon boats today. And I want to keep it as close to it's original version, as it kind of has a nostalgic/vintage look to it. So the swivel/clamp makes the most sense. But the slipping off issue is very discerning.

So here is my proposed solutions and I would like your thoughts on this.

PLAN A: Consists of simply adding suction cups with a side-pilot hole.
https://www.suctioncups.com/suction-cup-types/medium-cup-with-14-side-pilot-hole/
I would try to put 2 cups on per bar, 4 total per seat. And simply tighten the clamps as normal. It looks as if you could disassemble the clamp and just slide the cup all the way through till it reaches the low cross bar. My question is, would the 1/4" hole be big enough for the bar? The issue I have, is that the company that sells these, sells them in packs of 500, and I only need 4 of them per seat. I may have to shop around. My seat is good ol fashion smooth thin tin, so I don't think I have to worry about them not sticking. But I may have an issue with sun weather deterioration, but they are clear so I don't think the sun would do too much damage.

PLAN B: Would consist of making something similar to how ear muffs work. For example I would take the blades of 2 Ping Pong Paddles (remove handles), and place the rubber side to the bench seat. I would then create a wooden channel on the back side of the paddle that the low cross bar would attach to. This would create the ear muff effect and hopefully prevent the boat seat from slipping.

I used the paddle example, to explain it the best. But I would probably use a 1/2" inch of marine grade plywood cut in a 1' by 8" section, And then find a thin piece of rubber with a reverse (gripping) tread, and glue that to the inside of the "ear muff". And then build a C channel (or complete channel) on the outside of the "ear muff" that would catch the low cross bar of the seat clamp.

Thoughts and recommendations would be highly appreciated. And if anyone knows where I, or others could find the make shift materials that I just mentioned above, at a low cost, would also be appreciated. Especially the suction cups with a big enough side pilot hole. And the thin rubber backing with an extreme gripping tread.

I will try plan A first, next week and I will report on how well, or not so well it worked.

Thanks!
 
Not sure bout others but i picked up a clamp on seat bracket my last trip at bass pro for guest in boat and easy removal.. i got the cheaper of the 2 on the shelf and it came with 2 pieces of angled aluminum that scree into front and back of bench they have a "lip" on them and the seat is rock solid... maybe this is a newer clamp. Cause ive seen some on other boats that would slip off at WOT with my fat rear in them

Heres the extra pieces i mentioned

P_2100097-320x320.jpg
 
since your wanting to keep it original without drilling etc... Go to Walmart in the camping section (or other sproting goods place that carried backpacking stuff.) And buy a lashing, even something out of the automotive department would work. Run it under the seat and to the clamp and pull it tight...add a second one if your worried about it.

This is what I mean
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Outdoor-Products-Lashing-Strap-6/17017885

It should hold it in place without much movement....as long as its tight enough.
 
Great ideas guys, but I don't want to alter the original boat seat in ant way. I refuse to drill into the seat of any kind, so that's out of the question. I actually gave the lashing strap consideration before I wrote the original post. The problem for me, is that the foam doesn't come all the way down to the bottom of the bench seat. And the bench itself is some pretty thin tin. I'm pretty positive that when I lean back, that lashing is going to bend the tin.

But great ideas guys!
 
I was going to suggest the SliderG5 (a sponsor here at TinBoats) https://www.sliderg5.com/

But....you will have to put holes in your seat for screws. No screws/holes makes this a difficult fix.
 
can you figure out something like this? I used the TRAC on this boat to secure the base for the seat mounts on top of the factory bench. no holes.
If you can get a plywood base secured onto the boat seat, then you could mount something like a quick release mount onto it, and slide a low swivel base and seat into it, which is easilly removable.
I've been thinking about doing this to my middle bench, so I'd have a 3rd. seat in the boat.
I didn't know about the quick release mounts that accept the 7x7" swivel bases, or they would be on the back bench.
I know you didn't want to add weight to the boat, but I dont think this would add too much.
 

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