coat it question

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garzilla

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May 15, 2012
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Location
LaGrange, IL
Would the 2lb package be enough to do just my riveted areas.....not the whole bottom?

14' richline.

Paid 23 dollars online, thought I was getting a gallon....WRONG! LOL

Found an arts supply place that has gallons for 75 bucks if I need to go that route.

Says the small setup will cover 20 square feet.
 
I used the 8lb unit and it more then covered the bottom/transom of my 14ft alumacraft.

The 2lb unit would probably get the vast majority of your rivets done, but it also depends on how thick you apply it. I would start with any seams, and the rivets on those seems--then move on to your bracing rivets. Your working time is minimal with that product, the manufacture says you have about 30 minutes to apply it once you mix it--I found that I had about 45 minutes.

Also, be careful with the method you use to apply it. I made the mistake of using a regular paint roller to apply it. The problem with this is it would tend to absorb much of the product when applied, and rather then putting down a nice coating--it would put down a lighter textured coat--which is not ideal, you want it smooth.

Lastly, when mixing the material, you have to mix it pretty aggressively. I had issues with a clumpy mess at the bottom of the unit that was the consistency of thick peanut butter--and it did not want to mix with the rest of the product. In retrospect, I should have used one of those long drill bits designed for mixing, and mixed up the 8lb unit first before I added the hardener--as I spent 5 exhausting minutes stirring and folding it into a usable mixture.
 
Cool, I see how it comes out.
I did read that it's a good idea to sit the can on its top for an hour or so, flip back over, for an hour or so each time, to let the graphite come off the bottom before using.

I plan to use a rubber bondo squeegee for application, I read rollers aren't the best....unless it's like a foam style epoxy roller.

I watered the inside of the boat, and only saw like two small leaks, so I figure I can do the for sure leaky spots, and cowboy it from there.
 
garzilla said:
Cool, I see how it comes out.
I did read that it's a good idea to sit the can on its top for an hour or so, flip back over, for an hour or so each time, to let the graphite come off the bottom before using.

I plan to use a rubber bondo squeegee for application, I read rollers aren't the best....unless it's like a foam style epoxy roller.

I watered the inside of the boat, and only saw like two small leaks, so I figure I can do the for sure leaky spots, and cowboy it from there.

Yea that would have been my issue--the graphite settling on the bottom. I used a wire cup brush and got the layer of film off down to bare aluminum then rubbed it down with acetone. The coat-it sticks very well to that surface.
 
I'm at a stand still now deciding if I should make the new transom as high as I feasibly can, or cough up 50 bucks and buy a whole lower guts assembly off a guy.....all I need is a short drive shaft to convert my long shaft current setup.... :?

I have a '49 royal atlas I'd like to putt around with too, so I might just have to keep the boat short transom...
 

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