Wood transom ??

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fishinnut

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May be a stupid question but will a 1 1/4" transom made with 1/2 and 3/4 plywood be as strong as one made with two sheets of 5/8 plywood?
 
I dont see why not, i just re-did my transom using 2 sheets of 3/4" and it is solid as a rock. Just make sure you through bolt everything good and evenly. and if youre using regular plywood you definitely want to water seal it. I used regular pywood for mine and water sealed both sides of each piece and it works great, the water beads right off of it.
 
It doesn't matter what kind of plywood you use, you should be treating it. Use a spar urethane or epoxy. Do not use pressure treated wood at all.
 
+1. Never use PT on a tin boat. Use non-PT, exterior grade wood and seal with epoxy, fiberglass mat & resin, or Spar Urethane. Be sure you glue your two layers of plywood together using a product such as Tite Bond III with plenty of weight on top to keep them pressed together. After it cures dry fit the transom, drill any holes, seal, mount using stainless steel hardware. Be sure to use 3M 5200 on any and all through-hull fittings as well.
 
I'm a rookie here with a rookie question. Are there any tricks to getting the transom into place? My 1432 has an aluminum lip over the transom and the support is riveted in making it look difficult. I tend to make a bigger mess of things by not knowing the proper way the first time. Does the support need to be drilled loose and then re-installed after the transom is in place? Is there something else I am missing? Thanks for all help.
 
I'm sure it could be drilled out, new transom put in, then the lip could be through bolted through the new transom....with sealant applied to the new bolts of course.
 
v1mitch said:
I'm a rookie here with a rookie question. Are there any tricks to getting the transom into place? My 1432 has an aluminum lip over the transom and the support is riveted in making it look difficult. I tend to make a bigger mess of things by not knowing the proper way the first time. Does the support need to be drilled loose and then re-installed after the transom is in place? Is there something else I am missing? Thanks for all help.

Hey V1mitch,
I was nervous at first too. I had to drill out rivets on the transom caps and lip as well in order to get them off. I even had to drill out the ones supporting the transom from the gunwales (sides). I had to replace those supports with aluminum angle. It was scary at first, but if you take your time it will be done right.

You can google for videos on replacing pop rivets and see how they work and what you need.

If you can, keep your old transom in 1 piece so it can be used as a template for the new. Cut exterior grade (non-PT) plywood to match it, coat it with a minimum of 3 coats of spar-urethane and you're good to go. Some folks use resin or fiberglass to coat the ply (waterproofing) and then spray paint it (UV proofing). Seal all hardware with 3M 5200.
 

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