New here with some questions.

Johnzsmith said:

1. This boat has a couple of rivet leaks, and a few small seam leaks. I see that the 3M 5200 is the weapon of choice for sealing leaks, but do I use it before or after I prime and paint?
The best way to seal leaks is to repair them permanetly. The best way to repair rivet leaks is to replace that particular rivet. The best way to repair seem leaks is to have them welded.

2. I want to put in a floor to make the bottom of the boat flat and nice looking. I see that non treated exterior grade plywood is the way to go, but what thickness? I am a big guy (6'5', 300#) and will mainly be fishing with my teenage son (6'3",275#) so I want something that neither of us will put a foot through. Is half inch thick enough? This is for a floor, not raised decking.
I'm you guy's size and I think you're going to find 3/4" or the closest thing to it is your best option for men your size, especially when you consider adding gear. Cost difference is minor. Be sure and water proof with Spar Urethane or Epoxy. A better and more permanet option is to use aluminum. In your case, you would want 1/8th inch thick aluminum and at least 12" on center support.

3. What is the best way to attach the floor support to the boat?
Aluminum rivets are the best way and are easy to remove by drilling out with the same size drill bit as the hole. I suggest 3/16" hole & rivet. The depth you'll have to determine by adding the thickness of all the materials you wish to rivet together. I have seen some conversions where it looks like they screw the supports to the bottom of the boat.
If you do this, use stainless steel screws, but this is not as good as aluminum rivets Is this using short screws with nuts on the other side? They are screws in most cases, as there is not enough room to reach under and add a nut. I always picture the bottoms of these boats with 2 inches of sharp screw point sticking out the bottom, but I know that isn't right. Most of the screws are just long enough to make it through the materials they are fastening.

4. Right now, all of the wood that was in this boat is rotted away to nothing. This means that there are no seats right now. Can I mount pedestal seats directly to the floor I want to install? Yes, again, be reminded you are a big fella and you want things mounted in such a way they don't pull out on you. Considering my size and weight is this a bad idea?No it is not, but some extra reinforcement under the "deck" would be a very good idea, such as big washers on the mounting nuts for the seat pedestal base or perhaps a big piece of aluminum to spread the load and prevent the bolts pulling through. If I can mount them directly to the floor, how do I go about doing that? The best way is with flush mount machine screws that fit the holes of the seat base and can add a nut and washer underneath.

5. If I shouldn't be adding seats directly to the floor, what would be some other options for seating that won't put my knees up around my ears?Build a small box to mount to the floor to help raise the seat enough to make you comfortable or you may have to think on it for a bit. For example, in my restoration (see my signature) my driver's seat normal height is going to leave my knees to high to suit me. To help that, I'm replacing the 3/4" rotted out plywood floor with 1/8" thick aluminum. This lowers the floor 5/8" of an inch relative to the seat, so I can a bit of leg room. Additionally, I am going to add another inch of aluminum box channel around where the seat mounts to give me another inch of raise. Total lift isn't much, just 1 5/8", but it should be enough to give my knees a break.

Here are some pictures of the boat the way she looks right now.

Looking at the low ribs you have, I suggest not drilling directly downward into the ribs. Instead, drill side ways through the rib and mount an L-bracket of different heights, taller toward the middle, you can use to mount a support bracket that is "level" from side to side of the boat. Consider your weight when deciding quantity and spacing for the support brackets. A couple extras is more cost, but more strength as well.

It might just be dirt and the way the picture looks, but it appears you have some pitting. I suggest taking a look at Gluv-it or a similar product for the inside and Steelflex for the outside after repairing rivets and seams.

Some good exterior grade plywood coated with spar urethane or epoxy and sealed well with 5200 would be a good replacement if the transom wood is gone.

Nice looking boat. Nice lines. Trailer looks good.

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Johnzsmith said:

When I said leak, I really should have clarified that they are like weepers. I had the boat filled with water for a few hours and at most got a couple tablespoons of water all together from about a dozen places.
Replacing the rivets and sealing this would be the best solution.

Would re-seating the rivets do the trick? Along with the sealant of course.
Maybe, but generally re-seated rivets have failed and are better off replaced. Sealant can be scratched by a rock and you're back in the same place. Replacing the rivets is the best solution. For a couple solid rivets, you can buy a straight rivet punch that fits the new rivets you get, use a hunk of steel as the bucking bar and with a buddy helping and a larger ball peen hammer to set the new rivets. Use a flap disk to grind off the tip of the old rivet until you can use a punch to punch it out.

Wood vs aluminum, wood will win out simply because it's easier for me to work with, and I have the majority of the tools I will need.
I have hobby business wood worked in the past. I'm currently using aluminum for decking replacement. I am finding a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade (like a good Bosch/swiss made) and a file to smooth the cut when done is just as easy as any woodworking and there's no extra time/cost to waterproof the aluminum. You just scuff the aluminum a bit, then use aluminum etching primer to prime with, then paint, cover with marine vinyl, carpet or whatever you prefer.

Screwing into the ribs makes a lot more sense!
You have to drill a pilot hole for a screw just like you have to drill a hole for a rivet. In practice, they are about the same. Screws sound easier, but if you don't use stainless steel, they rust and you've got a failed connection. With an aluminum rivet, no rust and it's easily removed to replace. Rusted screws are tough to remove from aluminum. Especially if the head breaks off. I know, because I went through that with my boat.

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parkerdog said:

How high up are those original seat mounts?
If it was me, and they were high enough I'd construct some heavy duty cross boards and mount the seats on them. Floor looks pretty flat the way it is. (worked for years that way)
I'd fix the leaks and maybe put some of that 3m foam covering stuff to quiet it down.

Or not. Thats why they call them projects. you get ideas and then make it your own.

Maybe we'll go fishing sometime, I'm down the road by Rapatee.

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