New boat(for me) 1979 Bass Tracker. Need to replace deck

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traybore

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Hey all,

I just picked up a '79 bass tracker. All the floor is rotten so Im ripping it out now. I was wondering what the recommended thickness of plywood for the decking is? 3/4in or is 1/2in good enough? Also being me, I drove off with the key on my car hood last night and it is nowhere to be found. Has anyone replaced the key switch on these? Any ideas where to get a replacement switch or key? It is has an '87(I believe) 40hp mariner on it.

IMAG0035.jpg
 
Check the project section. There have been a few bass tracker mods done with good write ups on what the owners used and did to them. That should give you plenty of info on materials you could use. You should be able to find a new switch online or you could go to a local marine dealer if you have one close by.
 
Welcome :beer:

Agreed, check out the projects and search for basstracker. Lots and lots of great ideas.

But for starters, 1/2" is pretty thin for a deck .... I'd plan on 3/4".

Also, don't rule out using aluminum instead of wood. The basstrackers have very good aluminum structure underneath the decks that make laying down some sheet aluminum very easy.

When you tear everything out, it looks like this:

You can see how easy it would be to just rivet down some sheet aluminum .... and never have to worry about rotting wood ever again!

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3/4" will be a stronger build, use exterior grade plywood but don't use pressure treated plywood.

Seal the top and edges of your plywood with 3 or more coats of epoxy resin (best) or the same amount of exterior spar urethane (second best).

Using a finish like marine vinyl, tuff coat, kiwi grip, etc instead of carpet will greatly extend the life of your decking. Carpet absorbs and retains water, the others shed it.

Using petroleum based adhesives like contact cement for vinyl or carpet are much more waterproof than the latex based adhesives.
 
If you go with carpet - I'd use Henry's 263 for the adhesive. It's waterproof - most others just absorb and then dry out. It may be tough to find, but if you call the company - they can put you in touch with a dealer/store.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. Spent the evening ripping out the rest of the wood. Down to bare metal now. Wash will be tomorrow. I don't want to use carpet, but wasn't aware of a good alternative, so thanks for that. I don't think I'm going to do anything on the inside of the sides(if that makes sense). I don't see any reason why that needs to be covered. What do ya'll think? And just out of curiosity... Do I need to use rivets for the decking? Whats wrong with some self tapping stainless screws? Thanks again for all the input.
 
traybore said:
Thanks for all the input guys. Spent the evening ripping out the rest of the wood. Down to bare metal now. Wash will be tomorrow. I don't want to use carpet, but wasn't aware of a good alternative, so thanks for that. I don't think I'm going to do anything on the inside of the sides(if that makes sense). I don't see any reason why that needs to be covered. What do ya'll think? And just out of curiosity... Do I need to use rivets for the decking? Whats wrong with some self tapping stainless screws? Thanks again for all the input.

Not sure what you mean by inside of the sides, but I replace my rotted Tracker wood decks with aluminum, a truly permanent fix. If you decide to go wood, coating it and using the roll on coatings instead of carpet is the way to go to increase longevity. Adding the cost to the water protective coatings increases the wood cost a good bit, making the more permanent aluminum more attractive.

About the aluminum rivets: You don't have to use them, but they're much less expensive than stainless steel screws and are easy to remove and replace if in the future you need to get below your deck to do a leak/damage repair. Just drill out with the same size drill as the hole they're in. Here's a link to a reasonably priced online source:

https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html

The self tapping stainless screws will work okay, but are expensive and can be tough to get out once they've been in there a while. The metal interaction tends to corrode them in place and they tend to break when you try to get them out. Nasty business drilling out a broken screw. Way more work than I'd want to do.
 
So I got a new key. Took the ignition switch up to Cabela's thinking they might have a replacement switch. Told the guy in the service department I had lost the key, he went and grabbed a box of different keys and after trying about 15, had the right key. Cost me 2.99 as opposed to 49.99 for the new switch(which they also had in stock). Apparently the keys are fairly generic. Also got all the new foam cut and fitted today. Picked up some Tuff Coat for the decks(kinda pricey if you ask me, but I dont like carpet) as well as the new plywood. Should be done soon and ready for the water.
 
I just recently redone my Tracker. I started out with the main floor with 1/2 plywood. after putting it down before I did anything else I got in it and walked around and it was very spongy. I didn't like it so I ripped it out and used 3/4. Luckly I checked it at this point instead at the end, this point I only lost 1 sheet of plywood. So long story short go with 3/4 plywood. Now if you can afford aluminium sheets I think that would be better.
 
Yeah, I went ahead and went with the 3/4 covered with Tuff Coat. Ill post pics once the floor is back in. Still have some pieces to paint, and the rest are drying. But I think Im on track for the first trip out on the 22nd. If you can believe it the existing(destroyed floor) was 1/4in on the main deck and carpeted on both sides, it must have been re-decked by somebody in the past. I cant see it coming from the factory like that. Made it easy to pull out though, like a big carpet bag full of sawdust.
 

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