seam has cracked gaskets

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olefart
Posts: 32
Joined: 19 May 2012, 17:09
Location: central,wyoming

seam has cracked gaskets

Post by olefart » 22 Jun 2012, 14:10

I have a 57, 11' 9" Lonestar It leaks like a sieve at the seams, The gasket they used inbetween is cracked every few rivets. rivets dont seem to be leaking but the gasket is so dried up an shrunk , Im going to add a picture if I can . Any way what is the good fix for this gluv-it? Im not pulling both sides off and rebuild it from scratch.lol the gaps are about an 1/8" in some places. some helpful ideas would be nice.
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My tin boats 8-[
10' 1957 lone star SOLD
15' 1976 Grumman sports canoe 1969 4hp Johnson suitcase
15' 2001 Lowe 40hp evenrude

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sixgun86
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Joined: 23 Mar 2011, 12:57
Location: Gulf Shores Alabama

seam has cracked gaskets

Post by sixgun86 » 22 Jun 2012, 15:25

:WELCOME: to Tinboats Olefart.

My 65' Feather had similar issues. Never leaked a drop though. I applied 3m 5200 on the inside in spots that potentially have an issue down but other than that I left it alone. I'd leave that boat in the waters for days on end without fail. Fill the boat with a bit of water over the trouble spots and if it doesn't leak you gluv it or steel flex would just be a precautionary measure.

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krawler
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Location: Fremont, Ca
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seam has cracked gaskets

Post by krawler » 22 Jun 2012, 16:08

I think 3M 5200 is going to be your best friend here.
15ft Klamath Advantage, 25hp Honda Tiller, Minn Kota 55 Ipilot up front, Minn Kota 55 on the transom, Cannon Downriggers, VHF radio, 2 deep cycle batteries and switch, lowrance M68c, Nice custom bimini top and more fishing gear than I really need.

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olefart
Posts: 32
Joined: 19 May 2012, 17:09
Location: central,wyoming

seam has cracked gaskets

Post by olefart » 23 Jun 2012, 00:15

Im trying to learn. Im planning to wire wheel the outside seam with a brass wheel clean it up, just in the gap am I planning on putting the 52 in. will use painters tape to keep it from going anywhere but in the gaps. thinking of using a vacuum cleaner on the inside to suck it into the gaps? then clean out the inside and put a bead in there also? or is it only to be put in the inside so the outside can be gluv-ited without the silicon creating problems?? I have no need for the weight of a full coating of gluv-it for these won't be going across anything but water, the 5200 on the out side it will be easier to just pull it out every couple yrs and squirt it in again. best not easiest fix is what I'm interested in doing though.

Please educate an oldfart by tossing out reasons to do it this way or that way please, it helps seeing all sides and the many different possible fixes...
With my 69 Johnson suitcase 4hp on it I get a blistering 5mph if the wind does't stop me.. It's a hair raising experience. lol 51" wide, it is plenty stable.
Anyway it doesn't need to be bullet proof, I start fishing leaving the dock an pull my lines in when I get back to the dock. no beatings or abuse allowed.
thanks for any help you can spare
:-k There are three kinds of people, those that count and them that don't. :popcorn:


My tin boats 8-[
10' 1957 lone star SOLD
15' 1976 Grumman sports canoe 1969 4hp Johnson suitcase
15' 2001 Lowe 40hp evenrude

jigngrub
Posts: 756
Joined: 03 Aug 2011, 08:11
Location: Talladega, Alabanana

seam has cracked gaskets

Post by jigngrub » 23 Jun 2012, 07:58

I personally would Gluvit the inside seams and rivets and 5200 the outside seams. Gluvit does a lot better on the inside of a boat, on the outside it's a drippy/runny mess that looks like caca-doody.

Gluvit needs to be painted over to protect it from UV breakdown because it is an epoxy.

Have you performed a leak test to see where the actual leaks are? You should do this and fix any leaking rivets before applying Gluvit or 5200.
Rum, wenches, and song... just another day on my boat.

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