How to re-paint a boat?

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Swamper-AR

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My boat has factory blue paint but I would like camo or a natural type paint. Do I need to sand it to re-paint or just spray right over it? Original pant is good except for a few small spots.
 
If the current paint is in good shape then you can put a good scuff on it and paint over it. If its peeling or flaking at all I would get it down as far a possible and prime before paint.
 
gumbo860 said:
If the current paint is in good shape then you can put a good scuff on it and paint over it. If its peeling or flaking at all I would get it down as far a possible and prime before paint.

I am in the same situation, factory paint is still in good condition, except for the fading. But there are some scratches on the rails, etc. Can I just touch those up with primer, like using a small paint or foam brush?

I will post a pic of my boat when I get home...please check back later-on tonight, very interested in your input...
Thanks!
(Newbie)
 
gumbo860 said:
If the current paint is in good shape then you can put a good scuff on it and paint over it. If its peeling or flaking at all I would get it down as far a possible and prime before paint.

Just wanted some input on if I will need to sand this boat down to the metal or if I can touch up the bare aluminum spots with primer and then put a couple coats of paint on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated....IMG_1148.JPG
 

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MNHunter505 said:
gumbo860 said:
If the current paint is in good shape then you can put a good scuff on it and paint over it. If its peeling or flaking at all I would get it down as far a possible and prime before paint.

Just wanted some input on if I will need to sand this boat down to the metal or if I can touch up the bare aluminum spots with primer and then put a couple coats of paint on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated....

The need to get down to bare metal can only be determined by the owner when closely examining his own paint. If need be, get a local "expert" to look at it closely. Generally speaking, if the paint is peeling/flaking off and badly faded and crumbly, it won't make a good base for new paint.

The above said, if you need to remove paint, sanding is a lot of work and is not your only alternative. Search through the builds here (including my own) and you'll find various strippers very effective with removing old paint from aluminum. Once the old paint is stripped and washed away (I suggest using a pressure washer.), then you can apply an acid etch, then use a palm sander with a coarse paper to prep the area to be painted. Finally, use an etching primer (many have been used on here with success, I use Rustoleum, both the spray can etching and the latex roll on and both have shown good success if I didn't over apply and gave the primer time to dry fully.

Once that's done, you can apply your top coat paint. Pick a paint that you like. Personally, I was advised by an old boat supply salesman that Rustoleum brand professional sold by the gallon at Home Depot for $28.00 or so is an excellent paint. My experience so far has confirmed that.

You will have to look to find a paint color that makes you happy, depending on your location. Be advised you can make your boat much cooler temperature wise using tans and lighter colors rather than darker greys or darker greens. On my boat, I used a dark forest green for areas that I won't be touching much and used tan in areas I will touch a great deal. So think carefully not only on what color you like, but will your bare skin be touching that painted area when the summer sun is high in the sky. This will help you choose light grey, blue or tan for areas you might touch and save the darker colors for areas you are less likely to touch. Also consider how and what kinda dirt might get where as well.
 
I'm also looking at paint options, so maybe what I've found can help you. I found this on another website... Probably overkill, but would leave you with a long-lasting, beautiful paint job.

1. Remove all old paint with abrasives (paper, scotch-brite disks, etc) to maybe 180-200 grit equivalent - I would not use steel wool.
2. Use a 2-step chemical clean/etch process on the Al (alumiprep 33, alodine 1201) or West System now has equivalent since I don't think you can buy alumiprep or alodine anymore. Rinse well between each stage. Blow off all nooks & crannys w/ compressor after the chem etch.
3. As soon as dry, do a light prime with epoxy-based 2 part primer typically with a chromate in it (I use DuPont Variprime - green primer used on our airplanes, satellites, and rockets - no sanding needed). Awlgrip or Sterling have near equivalent metal primer options.
4. Fill in any dents, holes, etc. with epoxy or epoxy filler or your choice - sand as necessary and clean/prep
5. Do a final primer coat
6. Follow with sprayed 2-part linear polyurethane or your choice (Imron, Awlgrip, Sterling, Interlux Perfection) but use same company as your primer.


While I would love to do that, spending $300 on primers and urethane + a clear coat is not desirable, so I'll either bite the bullet or find another method.
 
Zinc chromate based paint will remove the need for priming or steelflex.

There are a few companies that offer a zinc chromate based paint, the trick is to get a completely cleaned surface and wiping down with a vinegar mixture 50/50.

I personally wouldn't roll on paint for a Jon but that's all depending on your situation. I have an 80 gallon air compressor that I bought from my local hospital for $1.00 because they were throwing it away along with a 2 hp electric compressor. So I've got the air and a paint gun that i found in my ditch that someone dropped from their truck Almost brand new and it works great!

It's sad when you post on Craigslist and law enforcement and the only emails you get back can't describe the paint gun.
 
Buddychrist said:
Zinc chromate based paint will remove the need for priming or steelflex.

There are a few companies that offer a zinc chromate based paint, the trick is to get a completely cleaned surface and wiping down with a vinegar mixture 50/50.

I personally wouldn't roll on paint for a Jon but that's all depending on your situation. I have an 80 gallon air compressor that I bought from my local hospital for $1.00 because they were throwing it away along with a 2 hp electric compressor. So I've got the air and a paint gun that i found in my ditch that someone dropped from their truck Almost brand new and it works great!

It's sad when you post on Craigslist and law enforcement and the only emails you get back can't describe the paint gun.

Thanks for the input. I plan to use an airless sprayer. I will have to check the paint I bought to see if it's a zinc chromate based paint. (brand is Parker Duck Boat Paint) I don't think it is but I remember hearing that it can be applied to bare aluminum. I would prefer to just spray several coats of the Parker Duck Boat Paint on. So from my pictures, if I decide not to sand to bare metal, will I have to prime the bare spots?
 
Buddychrist said:
I would highly recommend it if you want the paint to last

agree. I have decided to prime the bare alum spots at a minimum. I will look around for the zinz chromate paint but might just go with self etching primer in a can.

I think I am going two-tone. I have Sand Tan already but might buy the classic jon boat green for the lower half and bottom of my boat.
 

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