Removing floor and side walls

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BLKLAB

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I'm getting ready to strip down my Fisher Netter 16 Deluxe. It has a factory floor and side walls. I need to remove them so I can strip the boat down for cleaning and paint. There are a few spots where the floor is riveted down to the bottom of the boat, and also some spots where the side walls are also riveted to the side walls of the boat. Any suggestions for removing this? How should I fill the holes? Also, It seems the boat has styrofoam underneath the floor and behind the walls, I noticed it while pressure washing the boat. Does that seem right?
 
BLKLAB said:
I'm getting ready to strip down my Fisher Netter 16 Deluxe. It has a factory floor and side walls. I need to remove them so I can strip the boat down for cleaning and paint. There are a few spots where the floor is riveted down to the bottom of the boat, and also some spots where the side walls are also riveted to the side walls of the boat. Any suggestions for removing this? How should I fill the holes? Also, It seems the boat has styrofoam underneath the floor and behind the walls, I noticed it while pressure washing the boat. Does that seem right?

For the rivets just drill them out and if you are not going to use the same holes during your mod, fill the holes with closed head blind rivets.

The foam is there for flotation and should be kept or replaced if needed. Check out the link below on foam.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=25283
 
I didnt know they used styrofoam. Its wet, and falling to pieces. I'm going to tear it out and replace with new foam.
 
My Fisher has foam like a Styrofoam cooler is made out of, it's waterlogged as well. I'm gonna replace it with extruded polystyrene (foam sheeting from Lowe's)
 
BLKLAB said:
I didnt know they used styrofoam. Its wet, and falling to pieces. I'm going to tear it out and replace with new foam.

Yeah, they used that crapola back in the 60's and early 70's, it does waterlog and the beads break apart. The EPS is a much better option, and your boat will be up to date.

While you have your boat torn apart check the transom wood and make sure it is sound, much easier to replace when everything is already apart.
 
jigngrub said:
BLKLAB said:
I didnt know they used styrofoam. Its wet, and falling to pieces. I'm going to tear it out and replace with new foam.

Yeah, they used that crapola back in the 60's and early 70's, it does waterlog and the beads break apart. The EPS is a much better option, and your boat will be up to date.

While you have your boat torn apart check the transom wood and make sure it is sound, much easier to replace when everything is already apart.

The boat was built in 1983. Not sure if there is wood on the transom or not. If there is its wrapped in aluminum.
 
BLKLAB said:
jigngrub said:
BLKLAB said:
I didnt know they used styrofoam. Its wet, and falling to pieces. I'm going to tear it out and replace with new foam.

Yeah, they used that crapola back in the 60's and early 70's, it does waterlog and the beads break apart. The EPS is a much better option, and your boat will be up to date.

While you have your boat torn apart check the transom wood and make sure it is sound, much easier to replace when everything is already apart.

The boat was built in 1983. Not sure if there is wood on the transom or not. If there is its wrapped in aluminum.

If it's rated for an outboard motor it has wood in the transom. It probably has an inner wall of aluminum over the transom.


If your boat was made in '83 and has the beaded styrofoam they were going for a really cheap build.
 
catmansteve said:
BLKLAB said:
It's rated for 25 HP. It's actually a 1984.
I would have thought it would be rated higher than that, mine is only a 1438 and it's rated for 20hp, it's a 1980. Weird

I thought that was on the low side as well. Most the 1648's I've seen were rated for 35-40 HP. However, I didnt plan on running anything over a 25 HP anyhow.
 

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