What to Look for When Buying a Boat

Hello all, I'm looking to purchase my first tin boat next week and was wanting to know if there are any tips on what to look for or what to avoid. I also plan to take a few things with me such as compression tester, spark plug tester, plastic bin for water, rope, and general tools. I have bought boats in the past so I'm not totally new to this just want some advice from wiser people than myself .

Obviously you want to hear the engine run, put it in forward and reverse too.
Better to have a on the water test but not always possible.
Look for any soft spots in the floor.
Make sure the bilge and livewell work.
Drain a little lower unit lube out (bottom) just to make sure no water in it, water will be on bottom, do this before running it.
If responding to a ad listing all the "extras", print the ad and bring with you to make sure you get all the "extras".
Check transom for weakness, should be solid.
Check tires for dry rot.
Check bearings, jack up trailer, make sure tires spin smoothly and no wobble. Maybe even remove the caps and visually check.
Make sure the tilt and trim works ok.
Look for cracks / damage in lower unit area.
Make sure all the lights work on the trailer.

Earl has posted a pretty good list. You didn't say if you were buying a aluminum or fiberglass boat, but I'm going to assume aluminum since you are posting in an aluminum boats forum. The biggest thing to look for is a solid basis for what you're wanting to do. In other words, is the boat itself fundamentally sound? What kind of time and effort is it going to take to get it where you can start using it for the intended purpose? How big a boat is it? How worn are the accessories, etc? Are they use-able or just junk? How much do you want to pay? Can you get more boat for less money if you're willing to put some sweat equity into it?

All these things factor in. Biggest thing to do is think about how much boat you want, what you're going to do with the boat, where you're going to use it and go from there.

Thanks guys for your input I'll consider all of those things. I've bought two boats in the past both were fiberglass one was a 15ft 1977 Terry Bass Boat with a 50 Mercury It was a friends that had sat in his back yard for a few years it needed a thorough cleaning new carpet and rear deck from the initial inspection. I spent less than 100 dollars repairing the inside but when I took it to the Marine shop from a motor inspection one cylinder had around 70 pis and the other was around 5pis. The mechanic told me it was pretty much a boat anchor and would be considered a parts motor. Boat #2 was a 1984 14ft bass bass boat called a Skip Jack it had a 75 Johnson on it. Over the initial inspection I had my I want a boat blinders on. The boat cranked easy but I did not check forward or reverse no did i check the transom, or steering. This boat had been sitting in a garage for about 10 years. So i get it home clean it out all the dirt etc I notice the steering wheel doesn't turn and the transom not solid (weak on right side). Steering cable was seized up entirely and the motor would die in gear. Carbs had to be rebuilt the motor was in excellent shape other than that. So I learned some lessons from my previous boats i was also young then 19-20 years old. I'm 30 years old now more mature and maybe a little wiser The boat I'm looking for will be primarily used for jug running for catfish. I'm looking for a 14ft jon boat with a mechanically sound outboard 6hp - 25hp I plan on doing my own modding looking to spend less than 1k on boat, motor and trailer.

If they don't offer to lake test it, definitely don't buy without lake testing. I would buy without lake testing only if I was confident the seller was ready to haul to the lake and put it in the water, But that's me. Look for leaks and stay away from aluminum that is pitted badly. There is a million factor, you have to be judge, If its dirt cheap that always helps. Good Luck and let us know what you get.

dont forget the title i know here in pa trying to register a boat without a title is near impossible
also a leak teat is pretty important even if you can repair the leaks it could give you an edge to get the boat at a reduced price

Jay,

Another thought or two:

If you're interested in a 14 foot boat, try to get a 1448. It will be much more stable, especially if you gain weight as you age (I did).

Second, post where you're located in your profile. That way, guys on the forum from your area can help you out with local pricing, etc. Boats vary in cost depending on what area they are in. A boat can sell for much more in a high demand area and time of year vs. a low demand area and low demand time of year.

Since you're going to be fishing, I suggest looking to buy at the end of the fall fishing season, going into winter. Guys looking to ditch fishing gear to buy hunting gear will often offer great deals about that time of year.

First and foremost, I'm cheap so price is a big factor to me.

Secondly, if buying used, things could change as soon as money exchanges hands which is why buying at the lowest price (cheap) is important to me. Case in point, once I bought a used pickup at a really good price. I went over my usual inspection list. Test drive felt good. On the way home, the head gasket blew!

When buying cheap, at least I know that everything I put into the project is new.

Thanks for the continued advice guys it's much appreciated. The downside is where I live(West-Central Alabama) is when fishing season ends duck season cranks up so tin boats are in very high demand all year. I spoke with a friend who works at a local marine dealer today they told me they get calls every day with people wanting tin boats with smaller outboards they go very fast around here. Good news is I have a couple of prospects on solid boats. Guys what are your thoughts on buying older outboards from the 1950's? I found a 12 HP Gale Buccaneer Motor I may go look at. I understand these motors were a division of OMC and have a good reputation. My only concerns are what are the fuel connections like on older motors (would a Johnson/Evinrude connector work) and getting the proper gas/oil ratio correct. Parts are still available and are interchangeable with Johnson/Evinrude motors. I'm also going to check out a local marine shop that has a few outboards that need some work done. I'm mechanically inclined so if an engine needs some minor repair I have no problem with that but if it needs a foot or a power head I'll keep looking.

Well Guys Finally got my boat. Its a 14ft 52 width v hull with an 02 15hp Mercury that's practically brand new still had factory grease on it. Compression was even in both cylinders and well within spec 117 in both and cranked on the first pull every time. The v hull is a 72 model very well constructed and is very solid. Now the real fun begins gonna start a new thread in the project forum but firs here is a pic.