Painting

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mysavioreigns

Active member
Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
I'd like to put Steelflex on the bottomside of my 1436, and paint the inside and exterior sides (I think I'll run the steelflex up the side to about 3" from the top).

Question I have is, I had heard you should paint the bottom a dark color, and it should not be glossy. Is this true? The reason was that the fish would be alarmed by the glossiness or brightness, and ... I don't know, just sounds silly to me. What do y'all think?

Thanks,
 
mysavioreigns said:
I'd like to put Steelflex on the bottomside of my 1436, and paint the inside and exterior sides (I think I'll run the steelflex up the side to about 3" from the top).

Question I have is, I had heard you should paint the bottom a dark color, and it should not be glossy. Is this true? The reason was that the fish would be alarmed by the glossiness or brightness, and ... I don't know, just sounds silly to me. What do y'all think?

Thanks,

My boat is a light color and I still find the fish just fine. Now because it's a light color, I also get scum and water stains on it. I guess the dark color would help hide that.
 
Here's a question you might want to ask yourself:

"If my boat doesn't leak, why do I want to use Steelflex with the expense and extra weight it adds? Yes, it's a good product, but do I really need it? Would the money spent on the Steelflex be better spent somewhere else?"

If there's a good reason for the Steelflex, I say go ahead and use it and pick a color you like, I doubt the fish will care one way or another. But "sky like" colors will likely show less if there's a concern there. But I wouldn't spend the money or add the weight unless I had a prevailing reason to do so.
 
Thanks for the replies, guys.

Dave,
That is a good point. I don't have any leaks with my boat, but I thought the Steelflex was for making the boat run smoother. Then again, I guess a few good layers of paint could do the same, but who knows - I'm knew to this :)

Thanks again for the help everyone.
 
Dave also steered me away from steelflex, which makes sense. I don't have any leaks in my hull either, so It's kind of a moot point to be using steelflex. I'll also be shallow river fishing and duck hunting and apparently steeflex doesn't like to be beached or banged against rocks. It does look nice and should make your boat run a bit smoother over the water though.
 
Vermonster said:
mysavioreigns said:
I'd like to put Steelflex on the bottomside of my 1436, and paint the inside and exterior sides (I think I'll run the steelflex up the side to about 3" from the top).

Question I have is, I had heard you should paint the bottom a dark color, and it should not be glossy. Is this true? The reason was that the fish would be alarmed by the glossiness or brightness, and ... I don't know, just sounds silly to me. What do y'all think?

Thanks,

My boat is a light color and I still find the fish just fine. Now because it's a light color, I also get scum and water stains on it. I guess the dark color would help hide that.

Quick question for you...how much paint will it take for a 16ft flat bottom jon boat? (inside and out) I have two gallons of Parker Duck boat paint on the way...thanks.
 
Can't comment... I have 2 gallons of paint sitting in my garage too :)
The paint on there now is original or it came from the previous owner. I got sidetracked with fishing... of all things! I think 2 gallons would cover the outside though which is all I was going to touch.
 
Vermonster said:
Can't comment... I have 2 gallons of paint sitting in my garage too :)
The paint on there now is original or it came from the previous owner. I got sidetracked with fishing... of all things! I think 2 gallons would cover the outside though which is all I was going to touch.

Yep, me too. What color are you going with? Are you doing some sort of bottom paint?
 
Nothing fancy. I'm mixing rustoleum white with black and blue which will end up being a gray with a hint of blue.

I may actually put it off until 2014 which is when my registration is up for renewal. That way I can remove all stickers and paint the hull with no taping stuff off (other than the HIN sticker).
 
Vermonster said:
Nothing fancy. I'm mixing rustoleum white with black and blue which will end up being a gray with a hint of blue.

I may actually put it off until 2014 which is when my registration is up for renewal. That way I can remove all stickers and paint the hull with no taping stuff off (other than the HIN sticker).

good point, my stickers are already peeling off so i'm due to paint it now.

Thanks for the input.
 
Vermonster said:
Nothing fancy. I'm mixing rustoleum white with black and blue which will end up being a gray with a hint of blue.

I may actually put it off until 2014 which is when my registration is up for renewal. That way I can remove all stickers and paint the hull with no taping stuff off (other than the HIN sticker).

Hey, different subject....I looked at your build thread and was wondering if you did the aluminum framing all by yourself using only a rivot gun? Was it pretty easy? I am 50/50...on wood vs alum.
 
MNHunter505 said:
Vermonster said:
Nothing fancy. I'm mixing rustoleum white with black and blue which will end up being a gray with a hint of blue.

I may actually put it off until 2014 which is when my registration is up for renewal. That way I can remove all stickers and paint the hull with no taping stuff off (other than the HIN sticker).

Hey, different subject....I looked at your build thread and was wondering if you did the aluminum framing all by yourself using only a rivot gun? Was it pretty easy? I am 50/50...on wood vs alum.


Sure did and it was extremely easy! I just used a regular Stanley manual Pop-Rivet tool. I mounted Aluminum "L" angle to the ribs if you're looking at it from the stern. I attached the 3/4" square tubing to the L angle on the ribs. I mounted the front of the deck to the existing seat in the front using 3/4" channel. Here's a mockup: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/download/file.php?id=38437&mode=view/IMG_1039_mockup.jpg

The plywood deck that I added sat flush on the frame and the seat. If you plan on adding a pedestal for a seat make sure you leave enough space in the framing for the pin-hole in the base to go through. I didn't with my first attempt, so I ended up drilling out some rivets and moving the braces to make room. Drilling out rivets is easy enough if you make a mistake with the framing.

I used a jigsaw with a metal blade for cutting the aluminum until it actually fell apart in my hands (it was a P.O.S.). I then used a plain old hacksaw until I got a new jigsaw.

My only caution is vacuum up the aluminum shavings if you're modding in flip-flops :)
 
Sure did and it was extremely easy! I just used a regular Stanley manual Pop-Rivet tool. I mounted Aluminum "L" angle to the ribs if you're looking at it from the stern. I attached the 3/4" square tubing to the L angle on the ribs. I mounted the front of the deck to the existing seat in the front using 3/4" channel. Here's a mockup: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/download/file.php?id=38437&mode=view/IMG_1039_mockup.jpg

The plywood deck that I added sat flush on the frame and the seat. If you plan on adding a pedestal for a seat make sure you leave enough space in the framing for the pin-hole in the base to go through. I didn't with my first attempt, so I ended up drilling out some rivets and moving the braces to make room. Drilling out rivets is easy enough if you make a mistake with the framing.

I used a jigsaw with a metal blade for cutting the aluminum until it actually fell apart in my hands (it was a P.O.S.). I then used a plain old hacksaw until I got a new jigsaw.

My only caution is vacuum up the aluminum shavings if you're modding in flip-flops :)[/quote]

Yea, I really might try to do the alum framing. I think I can make it happen. How did you attach the corner of the framing that is against the inside of the boat wall?
 
MNHunter505 said:
Yea, I really might try to do the alum framing. I think I can make it happen. How did you attach the corner of the framing that is against the inside of the boat wall?

I used a small strip of aluminum channel on each side. It did require 1 hole and rivet to be put in each side of the boat. It's really just there to protect the hull from the corners of the frame when it's under my weight. I didn't want the corners of the frame digging into the hull and poking a hole in it after time and use. You can just barely make out the one in the top right of the mock up picture I posted earlier.
 
Vermonster said:
MNHunter505 said:
Yea, I really might try to do the alum framing. I think I can make it happen. How did you attach the corner of the framing that is against the inside of the boat wall?

I used a small strip of aluminum channel on each side. It did require 1 hole and rivet to be put in each side of the boat. It's really just there to protect the hull from the corners of the frame when it's under my weight. I didn't want the corners of the frame digging into the hull and poking a hole in it after time and use. You can just barely make out the one in the top right of the mock up picture I posted earlier.

Oh yea, I can sort of see it. That is what I thought but have been thinking and reading about how it's actually done since the side wall is naturally angled, how does the angles of the alum pieces match up to a flat surface in order to pop rivet them together? Do you know what I mean? Check out this picture, sorry, best I could do in the short amount of time and touchpad laptop I am using!
 

Attachments

  • angle.jpg
    angle.jpg
    18.3 KB · Views: 139
I think you can get away with using channel if the angle of your hull is closer to vertical, but if your deck is at the height so that the angle of the hull is obtuse, you may want to use just a piece of aluminum angle.

You can actually bend the "L" angle so that the deck and the hull are flush. Just use 2 sets of pliers and widen the angle a bit. The actual weight should still be concentrated on the ribs/floor. Just use the hull to more or less stabilize the framing.

I mocked up a cheezy diagram that shows both the channel and the angle.
channel_angle.gif
 
Vermonster said:
I think you can get away with using channel if the angle of your hull is closer to vertical, but if your deck is at the height so that the angle of the hull is obtuse, you may want to use just a piece of aluminum angle.

You can actually bend the "L" angle so that the deck and the hull are flush. Just use 2 sets of pliers and widen the angle a bit. The actual weight should still be concentrated on the ribs/floor. Just use the hull to more or less stabilize the framing.

I mocked up a cheezy diagram that shows both the channel and the angle.

Roger that, I am tracking now! Thanks. And for the rivets that will go through the hull...any special caulk or glue to dab in the hole before popping the rivet into place? Also, would you say thickness of 1/8" is good alum to go with? (whether angle, channel, tube)
 
Use 3M 5200 (marine sealant) on the rivets. I used 1/8" aluminum for my entire frame. I'm 200lbs and I could stand on 1 of the 3/4" tubes with minimal flex. It should be fine.
 

Latest posts

Top