How do you plug a through-hull fitting?

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I removed the live well from my boat to make more room, plus you can't use live bait fish around here. So now I have three holes in my hull--two in the stern below the waterline near the drain plug (on for pumping the water in and the other for draining it out of the live well), and on big 2" 'er above the waterline where the overflow dumped out. I can plug the two in the stern with by putting drain plugs in the through hull fittings. I'm not sure how to plug the 2 inch through hull in yhe side. I can't find anything on-line that's made to cap a through hull fitting. Has anyone ever had any luck plugging a through hull fitting this size?
 
Since its above the waterline you can bolt on a screw in access hatch and then you could put it back if you ever decided to do so.

If you post photos i can help a lot more
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1343006410.873477.jpg
 
You can go to an electrical supply house and get a plug used on electrial panels that will fit over the hole and it has a screw welded to the back of ot to tighten it in the hole. It has a rubber gasket on it to prevent leaks.
 
The hatch has a rubber gasket also.

Either way will work depending on what you would like to do.

You could even talk to your local college welding shop and see how much it would cost for them to weld in a piece of aluminum and grind it clean
 
If it's the one I'm thinking of (overflow drain), it's on the outside of the hull above water when moving, but could be below when stopped - correct?

If so, I'd just leave the fitting on the hull, and cap it off from the inside. Removing it and trying to deal with sealing the hole after it's gone would be a PITA. If it's just left alone, and capped from the inside you'll see it but it won't leak (if done correctly).

Short tube, barbed plug of the same size, and two hose clamps should do it.
 
That does sound like the easiest fix. My wife says that I should just put a wooden flap over it and use it like a gun port on a pirate ship. She's a keeper :wink:
 

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I did something similar on my re-build. What I did was cut some pieces of aluminum bigger than the hole to use as a backer. A little 5200 to seal the backer and some rivets to hold the backer plate in place while it is all curing. That's it the hole is sealed. If you want the patch to disappear altogether then fill in the depression with some Marine-Tex
 

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