Boat seats on a canoe

Do you think with these on a 15 or 16 ft canoe would raise the center of gravity to high? They would just be mounted on quick detcah and swivels.

If you're mounting them to the existing seats in the canoe...you should be fine. I have something similar in my Coleman canoe that I use without any issues.

I had these in a canoe with the clamp on bases, no problems.

Thanks

When I mounted these I replace the seat boards and lowered them so the seat height was the same as original to avoid raising the center of balance. They are MUCH more comfortable and the front seat will swivel 360.

Bailey Boat said:

When I mounted these I replace the seat boards and lowered them so the seat height was the same as original to avoid raising the center of balance. They are MUCH more comfortable and the front seat will swivel 360.

Click to expand...

I really like how you did yours! I probably will take out the existing seats and do what you did. Maybe a few more mods. :lol:

Young Gun?

OK, now...although probably not a big issue, here's some stuff on canoe hull design. Basically, it says flat bottomed canoes seem very stable in calm water and resist tipping. At some point, they just give it up and tip.

Rounded sided canoes ride up the side of a wave coming from the side and over. Like white-water kayaks.

"Rocker" refers to the lift at either end of the canoe. Less rocker...better straight-line tracking per paddle stroke. More rocker, better ability to turn on a dime and maneuver around obstacles, but much less efficient in just paddling. This is the design used in severe white water running.


Most (in U.S.) canoes are predominantly flat-bottomed, with a gradual curve along the sides. A compromise aimed at greater initial stability.

Longer, slimmer canoes go straight easier; short, wider canoes move more water per stroke, but give good stability.

Weight distribution for a single paddler is also a factor, but you'll learn that. You don't want the bow up in the air, because you will want the bow to cut water and the keel, or keel-line to track straight.

Finally, get a comfortable vest (personal floatation device, or PFD) and wear the damned thing all the time. No matter what your swimming ability, water has some absolute laws which are always in effect. A glancing blow to the head and all your reflexes are shot. If you don't do this, I won't let you go.


Here're some sites: https://overlandresource.com/canoe-hull-design

https://www.paddling.net/guidelines/showArticle.html?86

Gonna be great.

This is MY first canoe but I have done it alot. We always go float the Cadron.(local river) And the Buffalo(National River). And we will take it out on some of the lakes into streams that feed into them. I know what im doing. We always wear our PFD's. But after paddling for 6 hours on those stupid plastic "bench" seats in the canoe my butt isnt to happy with me.

theyyounggun said:

This is MY first canoe but I have done it alot. We always go float the Cadron.(local river) And the Buffalo(National River). And we will take it out on some of the lakes into streams that feed into them. I know what im doing. We always wear our PFD's. But after paddling for 6 hours on those stupid plastic "bench" seats in the canoe my butt isnt to happy with me.

Click to expand...

I say this as an experienced parent, and amateur life-coach:

Your butt is your own responsibility.


:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

I have an old aluminum canoe that had the wood and wicker type flat seats. I removed them, bolted in some aluminum cross pieces and mounted some seats.

I'm absolutely thrilled with how it came out.

MrSimon said:

I have an old aluminum canoe that had the wood and wicker type flat seats. I removed them, bolted in some aluminum cross pieces and mounted some seats.

I'm absolutely thrilled with how it came out.

Click to expand...

A tinny canoe w/ a transom...I'm jealous! :mrgreen: I keep looking for a flat back on CL with no luck . Once in a while I can find one, but people around here know that the transom ups the value significantly.

You can usually get a 17' all-metal canoe around here for $400-$500, $300 being the steal, but I haven't seen one with a transom for less than $600.

Ouachita?

I feel your pain.

No, wait...up until about three weeks ago, I felt your pain.

Been wanting a small river boat to use to drift hunt ducks.
Aluminum was out, too loud, but...

finally...after a lot of CL list scanning in all adjacent cities, came across this battered victim of adolescent abuse, and serial punishers of boats.

Rescued it, and have been fiberglassing, and structurally repairing, and fabricating, and generally doing my no-talent-but great ambition work on it.

It is a Golden Hawk (or Cranberry Creek--same boat) 12.9', Y-stern fiberglass boat. Original specs say 65lbs, but with repairs, I'd put it at 70-75. 38" inch beam, deep keel, carry weight about 700lbs.

Had it out twice since rehabilitation, works fine for a compromise canoe--both under paddle and troller.
Should have a 3 hp on it the end of this week or early next.

Dog likes it, which is good, because I'll be hunting alone around here.

Keep the faith, they are out there, and some are stupid cheap. Just saw a 17 aluma square, WITH 2 hp honda, for $325. Cherry, just too much for me, and AFTER I got the little boat.

Hey Ouachita...

Went back to the ads and see that this is still up!

It's killing me; I can't use it, don't need it, and did not go looking for it, but it is still for sale. You need to figure out a way to justify a road-trip to Wisconsin, or a cheap way to get it shipped to Arizona.

(Where's Scotty when you want him to "energize?")

here, share my pain: https://madison.craigslist.org/boa/3189734022.html