Temporary Leak Fix

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MOE

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I have some rivets that need to be replaced along with several other repairs that need to be done. But for now, I plan to get the leaks under control until my schedule clears up enough to make permanent repairs. I was thinking about using some type of silicone around the rivets. I've heard that 3M 5200 is pretty hard to remove. Should I use 3M marine silicone (without the adhesive) or use 3M 4200 which has half the adhesive that 5200 has?

I want to be able to remove it when I get ready to replace the rivets and repaint, but I don't want it to fall off after a couple trips. I intend to remove the paint around the rivets prior to applying the silicone.

Thanks
 
Unless you don't have the tools or something, it would take just as much time to replace the rivets as than just covering them with goop.

Buy
Drill
Pop
your done!
 
That's the thing. I don't have the tools or the funds to fix everything the right way. Plus right now, my schedule is very busy. When the time comes, I will replace rivets, transom, remove the 238 layers of paint, repaint, rod holders, etc. For now, I just want to keep my feet dry. My boat stays at the camp so it's not like I can work on it a little each night.
 
Take it too an aluminum welder and have them welded. I tried the frog rivet kit, it sucked, I tried 5200, it leaked. I took and had them welded and that was it. Like 50$.
 
Everyone that owns an aluminum boat should have a assortment of closed end blind rivets and a setting tool, the tools and rivets aren't that expensive and can be worth their weight in gold when needed.

https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html

Smearing goop on the outside of the hull only works sometimes, and when it does work it is very short lived... but don't take my word for it, try it and see for yourself.

... then there's always the old latex ceiling paint fix...
 
Wipe the area down with some paint thinner to remove any major crap and dirt. Smear a good layer of roofing tar over the rivets and let it sit in the sun for an afternoon. Unless you're dragging the boat 1/2 mile a day on those spots it should last for the rest of the year. If it starts to leak again, just smear on some more tar.

We used to do this with our old pond boat that lived out in a pasture next to said pond. We kept a small can of tar out there also with the boat. Every now and then we would have to smear some on the bottom after we finished fishing, but it was always ready to go the next day. This was a regular routine for almost 10 years with that particular boat.

Tar has been used for many, many years to repair leaks in boats among other things.
 
spotco2 said:
Wipe the area down with some paint thinner to remove any major crap and dirt. Smear a good layer of roofing tar over the rivets and let it sit in the sun for an afternoon. Unless you're dragging the boat 1/2 mile a day on those spots it should last for the rest of the year. If it starts to leak again, just smear on some more tar.

We used to do this with our old pond boat that lived out in a pasture next to said pond. We kept a small can of tar out there also with the boat. Every now and then we would have to smear some on the bottom after we finished fishing, but it was always ready to go the next day. This was a regular routine for almost 10 years with that particular boat.

Tar has been used for many, many years to repair leaks in boats among other things.

This won't work unless you use ceiling paint on the inside too. :roll:
The combination of roofing tar on the outside and ceiling paint on the inside is unsinkable!

... see you at the bottom!!!
 
JB Water Weld. The boats I used it on are still floating and it cost less then $10.

The wife and I were out in one of these repairs today.

026 (640x480).jpg016 (640x480).jpg001 (640x480).jpg
 

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