found motor for sale

ok so i found a motor for sale on craigslist,its supposedly a 1985 35hp evinrude.i say supposedly because after some research today i found out that 1985 was the year they changed how they measure hp ratings(from crank to prop now)so actually there isnt such thing as a 35hp in that year.im really interested in this size because what i have isnt enough.1648 jon with 1972 25hp johson witch i guess in todays standards is only considered a 20hp.so do you think i will gain very much with this new motor? also the guys is coming by today and i plan on doin a compression test,any idea what it should be? thanks

Yeah you are correct, it cannot be an 85' if it is a 35hp. Compression should be over 100lbs in each cylinder and within 10-15lbs of each other. Find out what year it is first, and make sure the transom tag is the same as the tag on the block. People like to cobble motors together to sell them.

Oh and as far as how much you will gain..... Depends on what year and HP the motor really is :lol: We know already that it is not an 85' 35hp. I have seen people be off by as much as 25yrs when advertising there motors! Just be careful.

But hypothetically lets say it is a 1984 35hp, depending on what you are putting it on will be the deciding factor in performance gain but I will tell you that it will eat that 72' 25hp for breakfast. Think about it, it is a 10hp gain which is huge when your only talking 20-30hp motors on little tin boats. These motors have no problem pushing 14'-16' tins at 25-30mph depending on the load in the boat as long as they are propped correctly.

Well you called it, it's a 1984 model.guy got it running after about 4 pulls. It needs a carb rebuild but it idled decent. Good water circulation and an almost brand new prop. I ended up trading a 12 gauge pump for it.best thing about it is a lot of my parts are interchangeable. only problem I found was there is 0 oil in the lower unit. kinda makes me think he drained it before he came to not show the color but he said its been sitting for a year.and he spray painted the whole thing black but my cowl fits his also. I'll post pics tomorrow but so far I like the deal.

Yeah sounds like you made out ok I will be waiting to see pics. Fill up the lower, throw her in a barrel and run it in gear for a several minutes at no more than 2000rpm and then check for water (milky color) in it afterwards. If you let it sit for a while until the air bubbles come out it is easier to see.

And as for interchangable parts, there shouldn't be much that will swap. The 72' 25 had the 22ci block versus the 31.8 of the 84' Also the lower gear cases are completely different

Agree with Johny, get some 80-90W outboard gear oil in the lower unit quick. And put some new washers on the oil plugs.
I'm thinking he may have drained it when last used and forgot.
Hopefully, no damage was done.

well heres a pic,i put my cowl on his motor and his on mine.when i said the parts interchange i was mainly talking about the cowls,my starter,and tiller handle.which is what i needed.as far as the lower goes its the prop shaft seal and hopefully thats all.never had to do one of those.can it be changed by taking off the prop or to i have to open up the gearcase?also i work on deisels and we put 75w90 in the rear ends.do you think it would hurt anything to run that instead of the 80?ive used it before when testing motor in tank just to see if i fixed leaks but always changed it once the problem was fixed.just wonderin if i could save some cash.all in all i like the trade.today im guna try and figure out how to wire the starter,this new motor is a lil different with the power packs.

boat-ryder said:

well heres a pic,i put my cowl on his motor and his on mine.when i said the parts interchange i was mainly talking about the cowls,my starter,and tiller handle.which is what i needed.as far as the lower goes its the prop shaft seal and hopefully thats all.never had to do one of those.can it be changed by taking off the prop or to i have to open up the gearcase?also i work on deisels and we put 75w90 in the rear ends.do you think it would hurt anything to run that instead of the 80?ive used it before when testing motor in tank just to see if i fixed leaks but always changed it once the problem was fixed.just wonderin if i could save some cash.all in all i like the trade.today im guna try and figure out how to wire the starter,this new motor is a lil different with the power packs.

Click to expand...

Regarding the prop seal, I would have to reference my manual when I get home, but someone else will probably chime sooner. Yea, I wouldn't have any reservations using that lube to troubleshoot.

No you won't have to open up the gear case if the seals need replacing. I think it is one or two bolt screws that hold the bearing housing hub in and your seals are in the bearing hub. It has been a few years since I had to do one but it wasn't very difficult. The hardest part was punching out the back to back bearing seals. It calls for a special puller to get them out but if they are already bad and your not worried about tearing them up then you can get them out with a punch (think that is what I used?). Any way it can be done without the special puller I know that. And them you use a socket end that matches the seal size and press or seat the new ones.

ok yea i found the small bolts after some looking and got them loose.it just had me confused since my old motor actually came apart at the lower unit and again at the gearcase.but this one basically pulls out the back i guess.i wasnt able to get the seal out(only got the rubber part out,i was kinda scared i might hurt the bearing but im takin it to my shop tomorro where i have more tools.the guy i got it from decided to use gasket maker almost everywhere even where the lower comes apart.surprised he didnt cover the vents with it lol.

i cant fish this weekend and im takin a vacation next week so ive pretty much decided to go ahead and replace all the seals just so i wont have to do this again for awhile.this has kind of turned into a discussion about motors but i appreciate the help anyway."johnsons" do you know if there is a seal kit that has ev thing i need or do i have to buy ev thing seperate?again thanks for the help

oh one more thing as soon as i took the water pump housing apart a small pin fell out.i looked at some schematics and it showed it as an impeller pin.where exactly does it go and whats the purpose?

Ok lets see if I can find those seals in a kit. Ok I don't see a seal kit but what I think you need is item #2 (oil retainers) and #40 (O-ring) also anything else that looks like it needs replacing. Also that was the impeller pin that fell out #52 in the diagram. It needs to go back in when you put the impeller in or it will not spin and pump water. There should be a slot in the impeller that it sits in and a flat spot on the drive shaft that it sits in to lock the impeller in place when the driveshaft spins.

https://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/JOHNSON/1984/J35RCRR/GEARCASE/parts.html

Oh and make sure that you make a list of all the things you need before you order so your not paying shipping fees over and over again. Also Marineengine.com is another place I order from but is a little more expensive than boats.net. Marine engine is closer to me on the West coast so parts arrive to me about 3 days sooner. When I am in a hurry I pay the extra doe to get them faster. But I am not sure where you are at?

ok so im gettin the prop seal and the o-ring,im also replacing my seals around the water pump like the 2 around that slip shaft(#41) also gettin #'s 44,45 and 60.i was looking at the diagram and where the driveshaft goes in to the lower gearcase there is also a seal there(#23) just like the prop seal.since i pulled the drive shaft out i will have to replace it too correct?any others im missing?i just want to get em all at once.

oh and im in alabama

I do not think you will have to replace the shaft seals just because you pulled the shaft out. But if your in there anyway and want to replace them I say go for it. They are going to be more difficult to remove them without a puller though.

i went ahead and pulled it and im glad i did.the bearing right behind that seal was bad.all the rollers fell out.took the carb off today and got it soakin.i think i can handle it from here.just gotta figure out how to wire my starter but ill post a new thread in the motors section.i appreciate all the help johny.