Aluminum Sheet ?'s

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BigTerp

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As some of you may or may not know, I'm planning on using all aluminum for my decking/flooring of my current build. Is this stuff from Fastenal what I should be using?

https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0953426

I know I want to use .125 for the deck and floor and will be using .063 for the gunwale coverings both in 5052. I thought I had all this figured out but I have no idea what the H32, ASTM, or B209 stands for. Any help??

I want to get my sheeting, angle and tube from Fastenal because a guy I played baseball with in college is a manager there and can get me this stuff at a pretty discounted price!!

THANKS!!!
 
ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials

B209 - Standards used by ASTM that pertains to this particular sheet. Just shows that this sheet does meet all the standards set in section B209

H32 - Temper designation.

Now, on to the answer you were actually looking for - yes, this is what you should be using.
 
Thanks man!! I knew I wanted the 5052 and when I checked my local metal supplier that's how they listed it "5052 .063" 4' x 8' ". When I saw all of the other abbreveations on the Fastenal website, it threw me off.

Now, am I right in using the .125" for the flooring and decking, or can I get away with something a bit thinner? I'm 6'8" 255lbs and plan to have a few hatches and pin mounted seat on the deck, if that makes a difference. I just don't want to end up with any flex and would rather spend the extra $ on the thicker sheet to keep that from happening.
 
When I decked my 14 foot jon a few years ago, a friend of mine who worked for the DMV gave me some trash signs. I had to bend a few of them back down and stuff, but it worked great. These were signs that were junk and in the trash pile. I came home one day and four beat up dirty 4x4 signs laying up in the boat. Cut it pretty easy with a circular saw and a metal cut blade, like a hot knife through butter. I sold that boat in May 2012 due to me getting my CS J-14 fiberglass, but you can check my build log on this site..
 
I'd definately go with at least .100 thick to keep the flex down. I used .125 in mine since I'm just a little under your wt., but my fishing partner weighs almost 300#, and it supports him great. My Alumacraft 20' has .080 floors and they flex even for me, so IMHO, get the thicker or redo it later. #-o One of my next projects will probably be to replace the floor in the big tub, with .125 thick.
 
I am using .090 for the front deck on mine.
I am using .063 for the flooring.
I am using .100 for the rear decking (or it will be another floor piece).
I am trying to use the 'scrap'. So far, it seems to be working.

(The .100 and .090 had to make the swap because of size, but with the supporting structure under it, it will hold anybody, just about.)

Talons
 
.100 for decking, .125 for hatches, .065 for things not walked on, problem with using thin material is when it flexes it stretches to, rivet holes will be loose as a goose over time.
 
Under my 1/16" deck, between the actual floor of the boat and 'deck floor' is 1.5" of styrofoam. The 'deck floor' is going to be fastened to the structural ribs which run across the boat floor.

It would suck if I am incorrect, but I believe 1/16", with the styrofoam backing should work pretty good.

Talons
 
After you have cut the aluminum deck pieces,i f you can find a fabrication shop near you that has the equipment to put bead rolls in it for you it will increase the rigidity greatly without adding any weight.

In choosing material to use the higher numbered aluminums are fine for flat surfaces but will crack on you if you do too much of a bend. I generally use 3031 1/8 sheet in a situation like this. It has good workability for our needs.

Another idea for fastening instead of rivets is to use threaded compression inserts. They allow the pieces to be disassembled and reassembled as needed.
 
It's a rigid, deep throated,hand or motor turned device that has a male and female round die on the open ends. You would lay out lines with a marker, slide the sheet into the roller, a clamp is turned to put pressure on the dies, and the the crank is driven and the sheet is guided through the device and the dies press a V or U shaped groove into the metal. These grooves increase rigidity by a huge amount.

I got experience using one working on street rods. With .125 it will take several passes but with patience it will work.
 
Thanks for all the responses!!! I'm planning on going ahead with my original plans and using the .125" for the deck and floor and the .063" for the gunwale. Just wanted to get some other opinions. Still a ways away from getting this done, but like so many of you this boat is always in my head!!
 

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