Transom Rebuild Question

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NLaudy

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Fredericksburg, VA
I pulled the transom from my boat today so I can rebuild it as the wood was rotting. I have a few questions though just to make sure I don't mess anything up. I am going to ask my questions based on the pictures in my thread.

Picture 1/2- Is this the Electrolysis or whatever that I hear people talk about occasionally? What causes this? Is it okay to replace that rivet with a bolt when I put the new wood in?

Picture 3/4- Does this look like the right type of wood and sealant for doing the transom wood?

Picture 5/6- Does this look right? Never really took note, do all transoms have a wood piece on the outside like this? Is it just to protect the aluminum from the motor hanging on it?



Picture 1/2:
Transom3_zpsd1c98162.jpg

EatingAway_zps9201dcfa.jpg



Picture 3/4:
TransomWood_zpsabbb75ff.jpg

TransomSealer_zpsb59ab249.jpg



Picture 5/6:
Transom_zpsd6fa63dc.jpg

Transom2_zps4596d1f5.jpg
 
One last question... I got new bolts for the transom since some of the others broke off and the others are crazy rusty. Are Zinc bolts okay to use? The only option I saw at Lowes was Zinc or Galvanized?
 
So I did some research and it sounds like my best bet is to not use the Zinc bolts and find some stainless.

Still trying to find out if the sealant I have is okay and if it is okay to replace some of the upper rivets in the transom with actual bolts?
 
NLaudy

You can replace the original rivets w/ SS bolts, best to use SS for everything. Also, how thick is your transom? Looks close to 1 1/2", if it is, I'd go with two sheets of 3/4" ply glued together, would be stronger than the one piece you show. Also, no treated wood and I'd ditch that sealer for some spar urethane. Good luck.
 
Thanks all!

Ict, I am using the solid piece since that is what I pulled out. Being that the boat is so small and the motor is also... it will be a wash. I will take it as a lessons learned and go that route if I ever have to do it again on this boat or another.

I found some stainless bolts lastnight.
 
NLaudy said:
Thanks all!

I found some stainless bolts lastnight.
If you don't have much/any experience using stainless bolts, be advised that they can gall. Friction between 2 pieces of stainless like bolt n nut will cause galling. You'll most likely end up twisting the bolt and breaking it unless you use some lube. You'll need to use stainless anti-seize to prevent the galling. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lct-37533?seid=google&gclid=CK3ho4e5uLUCFQYGnQodC2UAyg
 
Thanks JM! Out of curiosity, when I pulled the old hardware off there was only a washer on one side... For the non-carriage bolts (aka, where the rivets were in the transom)... would you recommend a washer on both sides? Want to make sure I do this right the first time!
 
IMO If the material that the bolt head or nut is resting on is soft then you should use a washer on that surface. If it's hard like 1/8" thick aluminum then you won't need a washer unless it's a lock washer to keep it from vibrating loose. So basically it depends on the material. Just remember that unless clearance is an issue, it never hurts to use a washer and it's better to be safe than sorry.
 
Agreed. When I replaced my reansom I used all stainless harware and used washers and lock washers. I also sealed each one with 5200. So far no leaks, the only leak I had was one rivit that wasn't anywhere near where I was working.
 
If you use the stainless steel Nylock nuts you will not need lock washers. I bought stainless hardware at Lowes, Ace Hardware, and also Home Depot on different occasions.
 
I just realized that no one addressed your question about the exterior piece of wood. As far as I know, the purpose of that wood is to allow the C clamp on the motor to get a good grip and not slip. When you turn the motor all the way in either direction, the thrust is applying a twisting force on the clamp which would let the motor sort of lay over on it's side if it slipped.
 
NLaudy said:
fisherman58 said:
can't beleive you guys are letting him use that presure treated

You obviously dont read very well... there is no pressure treated anywhere near this build.


I don't know about the reading part, but that third picture, the piece of wood he wants to use for the transom, sure looks like a piece of treated 2x6.
 
My guess is a standard 2x8, (probably an 8-footer from Lowes). Doesn't look treated to me. There are usually indentations throughout the surface to allow for deeper penetration of the chemicals. NLaudy will have to tell us who's right...
 

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