Solid Rivets, cheapest way to buy and set ?

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spropro

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Okay so I had to drill out way more rivets than I wanted to to get the rotted transom wood out and am thinking about how am I gonna replace these. I do not have an air compressor. Im curious if anyone has set these solid rivets with just hand tools and how did they work out. Any recommendations as to where to but from and what is the best technique.
 

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I am in the process of doing my transom now and I am replacing all the rivets with stainless steel bolts due to recommendations from the people on this forum. Maybe something to think about?

Did you already cut down the new piece of wood? My transom looks the same as yours and when I cut the new piece of wood I was having a heck of a time getting it back in how it was to where all the holes actually aligned!
 
When I replaced my transom I think there were something like 30 rivets in it. I filled most of the holes in with JB Weld and then used SS bolts. You don't need all those holes filled if you use bolts.
 
spropro said:
Okay so I had to drill out way more rivets than I wanted to to get the rotted transom wood out and am thinking about how am I gonna replace these. I do not have an air compressor. Im curious if anyone has set these solid rivets with just hand tools and how did they work out. Any recommendations as to where to but from and what is the best technique.

I helped a buddy of mine replace solid rivets. He used some type of hand tool, with a rounded indent in it, to tap the shank of the rivet while I held a sledge hammer against the head. It seemed to work well, and didn't leak. He also tightened some loose ones up, using the same method.
 
First of all, I am curious is your boat a Lowe? That looks just like the transom on my Grandpa's old boat. As far as rivets go, order a riveter from harbor freight for 20 bucks then order some rivets from Mcmaster Carr. They are by far the best place I have found. Prices were cheap, 15 or so bucks for 100 rivets, the delivery is fast and cheap, 6 bucks for 4 day delivery. Closed end (though I believe they call them sealed end) aluminum (not aluminum with steel mandrel). Hard to beat and certainly a lot easier on you hands and shoulders then beating in a solid rivet.
Chris
 
im currently working on a 12 foot sears jon from 76 i removed all the rivets on the seats and supports and replaced then with 1/4" 20x1/2 "machine bolts and flat washers on the inside i bucked rivets and no luck i used the washers off a box of teks #12x1" roofing screws here is what i did i removed the washers off the roofing screw and screwed the washer onto the machine screw (i did about 160 it was a longer process) re drilled the hole on the boat to 1/4 inch then placed the screw into the hole put a flat washer on then a nut and tightened it with a drill till the rubber on the washer sealed good so what is what i did to my boat its alot of work but years down the road when i get a leak all ill have to do it grab my drill with a nut driver on it and tighten whats leaking hope this helps ill post a pic of what i got when i can btw i didnt use any sealant at all the washers have rubber in them no need for sealant
 
Stainless bolt/nuts are just fine. I've used them on all kinds of boat problems since the 60's.
Stainless above the Water line, Bronze below!

I riveted wings at Boeing.
We used 'soft aluminum' solid rivets for most of the long runs along the stringers. Certain places had Titanium's that were swedged. You do need a special gun for those rivets.

The Soft rivets took two of us, one driving and one bucking. The Bucking bar was especially designed to mushroom the rivets without destroying the Wing. (Boat in this case)!
That would be the best of all worlds if you could get the stuff to make it work.

Now days you can get "Pull Rivets" and "Drive Rivets" in all sizes and hardness'. Go to the OTR Trailer re builders and they'll fill you in on the good rivets.

You don't need an air gun. Although it would sure make it easier.

My 12 yr old son was my Bucker on this old Star-craft boat.
I made him a Concave bar. I Batted the rivet from the inside, and he held it tight from the outside. It worked pretty well.
He hated me and wouldn't come home for a week after we got part of the boat done. :lol: A kid can only stand so much of that, so we did the boat in sections. It took four 'efforts' to get it all done.

If I can help more, send me some photos.
Dick
 
I think you guys are missing that he removed the rear flotation pods not just the transom. Many of those rivots he took out are below the water line and I believe some of them are even in the floor. Personally, I would put rivots back in when you put the pods back but I would use SS bolts on the transom.

If you have a compressor, you can pick up an air hammer at HF that comes with several bits for about 10 bucks. I modified one of the bits to set rivets. It worked great and I only have a little pancake compressor. Just 2 or 3 rivots at a time and then let the compressor catch up.

I also have a Lowe. I found it was easier for me to cut the welds on the corner caps and replace the transom from the top. I had other things to be welded though so I allready was going to a weld shop. Obviously you are allready commited to going about it from the bottom. I wish now I would have went ahead and built an aluminum transom for mine. Live and learn I guess.
 
Rivets are the right answer for the wet parts of the boat.
Just make sure the swedge is complete, but too much swedge and you'll crack the aluminum around the rivet hole.

If you are not certain of a Rivet, drill it out and do it again.

Boat's are thin skinned and weak. Use soft Rivets. They'll swedge up tight and leak proof.
 
NLaudy said:
I am in the process of doing my transom now and I am replacing all the rivets with stainless steel bolts due to recommendations from the people on this forum. Maybe something to think about?

Did you already cut down the new piece of wood? My transom looks the same as yours and when I cut the new piece of wood I was having a heck of a time getting it back in how it was to where all the holes actually aligned!

NLaudy, Im debating putting in an aluminum transom instead of wood. And Yes I agree I may be putting in some stainless bolts in place of some of the rivets.

Tusker said:
When I replaced my transom I think there were something like 30 rivets in it. I filled most of the holes in with JB Weld and then used SS bolts. You don't need all those holes filled if you use bolts.

Tusker I've seen the tool your talking about in the All Aluminum rv forums. Looks like a good low cost option. JB Weld is mentioned often on filling holes just curious how long the patch lasts.

Tusker said:
When I replaced my transom I think there were something like 30 rivets in it. I filled most of the holes in with JB Weld and then used SS bolts. You don't need all those holes filled if you use bolts.

Good to hear! That sounds like the way I will go.

chrispbrown27 said:
First of all, I am curious is your boat a Lowe? That looks just like the transom on my Grandpa's old boat. As far as rivets go, order a riveter from harbor freight for 20 bucks then order some rivets from Mcmaster Carr. They are by far the best place I have found. Prices were cheap, 15 or so bucks for 100 rivets, the delivery is fast and cheap, 6 bucks for 4 day delivery. Closed end (though I believe they call them sealed end) aluminum (not aluminum with steel mandrel). Hard to beat and certainly a lot easier on you hands and shoulders then beating in a solid rivet.
Chris

Yes Chris the boat is a 1440M Lowe. I will definety take a look at the closed ends.

csimmons0885 said:
im currently working on a 12 foot sears jon from 76 i removed all the rivets on the seats and supports and replaced then with 1/4" 20x1/2 "machine bolts and flat washers on the inside i bucked rivets and no luck i used the washers off a box of teks #12x1" roofing screws here is what i did i removed the washers off the roofing screw and screwed the washer onto the machine screw (i did about 160 it was a longer process) re drilled the hole on the boat to 1/4 inch then placed the screw into the hole put a flat washer on then a nut and tightened it with a drill till the rubber on the washer sealed good so what is what i did to my boat its alot of work but years down the road when i get a leak all ill have to do it grab my drill with a nut driver on it and tighten whats leaking hope this helps ill post a pic of what i got when i can btw i didnt use any sealant at all the washers have rubber in them no need for sealant
csimmons, that definetly sounds like another good option. I will defenitely take a look at those when visiting Home Depot.

thudpucker said:
Stainless bolt/nuts are just fine. I've used them on all kinds of boat problems since the 60's.
Stainless above the Water line, Bronze below!

I riveted wings at Boeing.
We used 'soft aluminum' solid rivets for most of the long runs along the stringers. Certain places had Titanium's that were swedged. You do need a special gun for those rivets.

The Soft rivets took two of us, one driving and one bucking. The Bucking bar was especially designed to mushroom the rivets without destroying the Wing. (Boat in this case)!
That would be the best of all worlds if you could get the stuff to make it work.

Now days you can get "Pull Rivets" and "Drive Rivets" in all sizes and hardness'. Go to the OTR Trailer re builders and they'll fill you in on the good rivets.

You don't need an air gun. Although it would sure make it easier.

My 12 yr old son was my Bucker on this old Star-craft boat.
I made him a Concave bar. I Batted the rivet from the inside, and he held it tight from the outside. It worked pretty well.
He hated me and wouldn't come home for a week after we got part of the boat done. :lol: A kid can only stand so much of that, so we did the boat in sections. It took four 'efforts' to get it all done.

If I can help more, send me some photos.
Dick

Thud, thanks for your response. You sound like you,ve got some really good build experience. WIsh you were my neighbor. Luv your story about your son, a memory he will remember long after your gone.

BassBlaster said:
I think you guys are missing that he removed the rear flotation pods not just the transom. Many of those rivots he took out are below the water line and I believe some of them are even in the floor. Personally, I would put rivots back in when you put the pods back but I would use SS bolts on the transom.

If you have a compressor, you can pick up an air hammer at HF that comes with several bits for about 10 bucks. I modified one of the bits to set rivets. It worked great and I only have a little pancake compressor. Just 2 or 3 rivots at a time and then let the compressor catch up.

I also have a Lowe. I found it was easier for me to cut the welds on the corner caps and replace the transom from the top. I had other things to be welded though so I allready was going to a weld shop. Obviously you are allready commited to going about it from the bottom. I wish now I would have went ahead and built an aluminum transom for mine. Live and learn I guess.

Bassblaster,
Yes I did remove the seat pods and floatation. Good thing cause the foam was saturated with water and the weight was not good. Yes Many of the rivets removed are below the water line. I do believe for thos I am going to try and replace with solid rivets using the techniques suggested by some of the members.

thudpucker said:
Rivets are the right answer for the wet parts of the boat.
Just make sure the swedge is complete, but too much swedge and you'll crack the aluminum around the rivet hole.

If you are not certain of a Rivet, drill it out and do it again.

Boat's are thin skinned and weak. Use soft Rivets. They'll swedge up tight and leak proof.

Good Idea !
 

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