Trolling motor mount

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gaspasser

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I have a 2010 Triton aluminum jon boat and want to mount a 45lb Motorguide trolling motor on the bow. My problem is that the bow platform is continuous across the boat and has a skirt that extends down almost to the floor of the boat aft. Under the aluminum platform is a foam block that I assume was put there to add upright flotation. My problem is how to mount the base of the trolling motor as there seems to be no way to insert bolts through the deck and get washers and nuts on the other side. I have entertained the thought of using largish sheet metal screws but it seems as if they might vibrate out. Also, maybe a plywood base an inch thick screwed and epoxied to the aluminum? Anyone have a solution or advice? Thanks
 
You could possibly try zert nuts. Drill a hole insert the zert nut and then screw the bolts in, as they tighten the nuts will contract somewhat like a drain plug giving you a secure fit.
 
Another option is a well placed deck plate installed in the deck near the trolling motor mount.
https://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=44019&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50667&subdeptNum=50680&classNum=50683
easy access for wiring as well.
 
I don't know if you could find big enough/strong enough ones. But pop rivets would do the trick. But most are so small they wouldn't even begin to work.
 
just_fishing said:
You could possibly try zert nuts. Drill a hole insert the zert nut and then screw the bolts in, as they tighten the nuts will contract somewhat like a drain plug giving you a secure fit.
in that situation id use this idea. they come under a lot of different names (rivnuts, blind nut, nutsert) and are pretty easy and cheap to get. just make sure you get the right size hole and grip range and you could be done in 5 minutes. plus in that application theyll last just about forever.
 
Toggles will work as mentioned. Short grip range mollys (commonly called hollow wall fasters) may be a better choice as the hole is smaller and the bolt is shorter.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. Having done some research, I think riv nuts or rivet nuts in aluminum should do the trick. My only thought at this point is whether or not to add an aluminum plate larger than the mounting base of the trolling motor to spread the forces over a larger surface area of the bow platform. What I don't yet know is the exact thickness of the aluminum bow platform on this 2010 1440 MV Triton by Earl Bentz jon boat. When I get it all together I'll try to post some pics.
 
Question for any of you wise men with experience using these riv nuts...

Would this be strong enough to use for mounting a square base for a kingpin pedestal seat? I'd like to mount one, but the spot where I need it has no way to access underneath...?
 
The thing to consider when using the rivnuts is the small flange that is raised above the surface of your substrate. So if you want the part your are mounting to sit tight against the part you are mounting to, you there will need be a recess cut into the part being mounted to accommodate the flange on the rivnut. Otherwise your mount piece rests on the flange of the rivnut itself. If mounting a trolling motor it would not be a concern because of the rubber bushings that should be between the TM mount and the deck.

Aside from that, rivnuts are awesome. We use them all the time in the shop at work and they will hold amazingly well until you start applying lateral loads. Pulling on them, trying to pluck one out, they only get tighter until the substrate gives.
 
Would a 250# butt rocking back and forth on a pedestal seat qualify as what you would call a "lateral load"? I'm guessing so... :LOL2:
 
Just wondering here......

re " there will need be a recess cut into the part being mounted to accommodate the flange on the rivnut"

Could he, instead, use a thin piece of aluminum to build up the bottom of the plate, with larger holes cut where the rivnuts make contact???

richg99
 
Good thought on the aluminum plate. I also was wondering if I might be able to file the nut down level with the deck surface without damaging it too much to function. I've never used them before. Any thoughts?
 

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