Possibble project: Alumacraft AW Tunnel 1756SC

I've been scouting around for a "project boat" to turn into a float SKINNY flats boat. My SeaArk does pretty well but it does not have a tunnel so I am pretty limited. We pretty much just chase Speckled Trout and Redfish inshore. These fish get up into the really shallow areas when the tide drops like a rock so that being said, you're either in a Gheenoe, kayak or a tunnel hull boat. I like fairly big and STABLE. Gheenoe's are great for their intended purpose as are yaks but there's typically a bit of open water to cross and the weather can blow up in a heart beat and I'm here to tell you, I just can't see the wife in a Gheenoe crashing through 1 - 1.5 swells in a Gheenoe.

Anyway, up pops this boat. 2010 Alumacraft 1756 AW Tunnel SC. I've been looking for a 1652 or up to 17' WITH a tunnel and not so easy to find used. I could buy something and have a tunnel welded in but it adds to the cost. I only have received 4 pics below. Camo option paint and the optional Rhino liner sprayed in. Not too keen on Rhino Liner as I've heard it gets HOT.
None the less, boat on nada with trailer prices out to $6,000 as you see it. What would you say is a "good or great deal" price wise ?

Pretty much just need a jack plate and power. I'd figure at least a 60, rated for a 75.

Don't know anything about Alumacraft. So gimme to good, the bad and the UGLY :shock:

Thanks

Tunnel is only beneficial on plane. A tunnel causes a loss of buoyancy, that is why this prop-tunnel boat has pods on the back.

Hey thanks for the replies and I can pick this boat up for well under $5k but need to look at all the factors. I know that the boat won't float any skinnier than what I have now or maybe just a tad. However, around here and in MANY other areas on the flats water can easily be 1.5' to 2' deep for miles and miles so "running skinny" is pretty important.

Looks like a nice hull, should work well. Is there any real benefit to running a larger (heavier) motor vs. a 30 or 40hp 2 stroke?

I wonder what the rest of the story is, why they stripped it out.

This looks like it could make a nice flats skiff: https://charlotte.craigslist.org/boa/4072761940.html

Has a little deadrise though

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=330341#p330341 said:

Ranchero50 » Yesterday, 22:22[/url]"]Looks like a nice hull, should work well. Is there any real benefit to running a larger (heavier) motor vs. a 30 or 40hp 2 stroke?

I wonder what the rest of the story is, why they stripped it out.

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Not sure on why it's stripped out but I'm working on that. There are zero benefits to running a heavier motor. I'd try to find either an Etec 50 or a Yamaha 2 stroke 50. The Yamaha 40 and 50 2 strokers weigh the same. As Dave said, keeping it light is key.

I have a very similar boat. 2005 Alumacraft 1856 with a 70 hp Yamaha. It is rated for a 115 HP but the 70 does very well and much lighter than the 115 which helps when runny skinny. It also is a tunnel hull with the pods on the back. I fish on the Texas coast for reds and trout. It will run very shallow. I can sit in about 4 inches. It will get up in 6 inches and run easily in 6 inches. If I get stuck on a shallow reef it is very easy to push off. When I purchased this boat 7 years ago, I did not plan on keeping it this long. Originally purchased because I wanted to run shallow and did not know this area which is very shallow and was afraid of tearing up a fiberglass boat on a reef. The longer I keep this boat, the better I like it. I have friend that has a Gheenoe. It does not get any shallower than my boat and if any wind at all, we take my boat.
My only complaints are:

Depth finder will not work very well. It only works when sitting still. There is too much turbulance created by the tunnel and pods. Most of the time I am fishing very skinny and depth of water is not needed.

If I am running in rough water waves more than 3 feet, it get get very bouncy and wet if I go too fast. I just pick my days and don't go if over 25 mph winds.

If reverse is needed into the wind, it does not work very well. This is a problem with all tunnel hull boats.

Like any light or tin boat, in a cross wind it is hard to drive on the trailer. The wind will kick the rear around and you can end up crooked on the trailer. I put a sideboard and each side of trailer and that helps.

Good luck with your choice.............

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=330764#p330764 said:

txredfish » Yesterday, 8:37 pm[/url]"]

If reverse is needed into the wind, it does not work very well. This is a problem with all tunnel hull boats.

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This is not a true statement. Reverse is not as responsive with a jet versus with a prop, but reverse still works well. Doesn't have anything to do with the tunnel.

I have been keeping my eyes out for ya Badger......That looks like a good deal......check the texas craigs list.....they run a fair amount of tunnels there....might get a deal if your willing to drive for it.

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=330819#p330819 said:

bigwave » Today, 09:49[/url]"]I have been keeping my eyes out for ya Badger......That looks like a good deal......check the texas craigs list.....they run a fair amount of tunnels there....might get a deal if your willing to drive for it.

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Hey thanks Kevin, I think this one fell through. Hey don't forget to send those pics of your area. I PM'd ya my email. I was talking to a local buddy last night from a forum and he had a Gator Trax flats boat a few years ago. Those are some serious looking boats and they build them out of 3/16"! They told him if you can break this boat, we'll build you a brand new one :shock:

This is one that I found that is all rigged out......I don't really care for Etecs but this one looks good.
https://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/boa/4096601995.html

Thanks Kevin, I'll have a look.