Painting a jon boat

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scoobeb

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Well i have a 2003 crestliner and was wondering if it was worth painting.So i said to myself what else do i have to do.So this is what i'm thinking.i want to repaint the bottom.I really don't know if what i'm mostly seeing is corrosion or just peeling paint.I fig i would give it a good wet sand,not take all the paint off but whatever is loose,then clean it with alcohol or acetone.What would be the best cleaner for an aluminum jon boat after i sand it out of the 2.Should i use a paint thinner on it or would that be to potent.Iv'e redone an outboard and after 4 times i got it right,lol.It actually came out better then the original job.

After that i was going to spray it with a self etching primer,then just paint.Anything i put on the bottom will be better then whats on it now but i also don't want the paint to come off in the saltwater from a crummy job.I'm just going to spray paint it or should i use a roller and bottom paint?Never done this and i don't want to make this a long project,i'm ready to fish soon.It's going to start cooling down here soon in fl,actually by weds of this week coming and the trout will be ready for a jumbo shrimp along with the reds and snook,lol.

I'm not worried about the inside,just the outside.Well if there is any easy fixer up i can do please let me know,thanks.
 
You're on the right track with self-etching primer. I went to an automotive store and got aluminum cleaner that is supposed to do the same thing... so far, so good! If you have imperfections after prep, rolling and tipping was thicker, faster, and hid more imperfections on my boat.
Our boating season is coming to an end here in my part of Canada :(
 
Well i checked the bottom of the boat and at the back there is a like 5 inch spot with pitting,it's like blackish dark grey looking spots but it doesn't have seemed to go all the way through the boat.I don't really know how deep they go.The guage aluminum is .064.I don't really know how thick that would be in mm.I really don't know what to do at this point.Should i just sand it down till it's all gone?I have been scraping it with a paint scrapper just to see how bad it is.It's not coming off very easy i can say that.I don't want to take to much metal off and weaken the boat structure.

I need help at this point.I guess in the morning i can take a pic of it if that helps.The boat is in such great shape except for a few small things.The inside has some small minor pitting but not to bad,nothing to worry about on a 11yr old boat,i'm not going to do the inside just the bottom so i know it will be corrosion free.I can't see it getting a hole in the bottom of it by sanding the pits out,or can i by some minor sanding?Should i just sand it the best i can and then fill the area in with something and then smooth it out then paint?

The big question is what can i use on aluminum that i can sand,paint and is somewhat flexable,i know or i should say i believe if i used like an epoxy even know it gets hard as as steel has a tend to still crack when the aluminum flexes.

I need some major help please.I'm almost tempted to just sell it as is and buy a new 1436 alumacraft for only $699 and that will be that.I'm sure if i just use it,it would hold up because i may just be a bit paranoid but it's better safe then sorry.
 
scoobeb said:
Well i checked the bottom of the boat and at the back there is a like 5 inch spot with pitting,it's like blackish dark grey looking spots but it doesn't have seemed to go all the way through the boat.I don't really know how deep they go.The guage aluminum is .064.I don't really know how thick that would be in mm.I really don't know what to do at this point.Should i just sand it down till it's all gone?I have been scraping it with a paint scrapper just to see how bad it is.It's not coming off very easy i can say that.I don't want to take to much metal off and weaken the boat structure.

I need help at this point.I guess in the morning i can take a pic of it if that helps.The boat is in such great shape except for a few small things.The inside has some small minor pitting but not to bad,nothing to worry about on a 11yr old boat,i'm not going to do the inside just the bottom so i know it will be corrosion free.I can't see it getting a hole in the bottom of it by sanding the pits out,or can i by some minor sanding?Should i just sand it the best i can and then fill the area in with something and then smooth it out then paint?

The big question is what can i use on aluminum that i can sand,paint and is somewhat flexable,i know or i should say i believe if i used like an epoxy even know it gets hard as as steel has a tend to still crack when the aluminum flexes.

I need some major help please.I'm almost tempted to just sell it as is and buy a new 1436 alumacraft for only $699 and that will be that.I'm sure if i just use it,it would hold up because i may just be a bit paranoid but it's better safe then sorry.

3m 5200. Stays flexible and adhered down below freezing
 
Here is what i'm working with.The rest of the boat is in somewhat mint condition.I just don't know how far to sand the area or if i should sand it anymore then what it is already,a hole in the bottom of the boat by me sanding it will be bad,lol.The aluminum seems to be very strong and thick.To the answer of 5200,can you sand and paint that.What am i saying i have some i just bought i will read it.But if anyone has had hand on experience with it as far as sanding it and painting it please let me know,thanks.
 

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If it feels solid you may just etch primer the thing. Then for that spot you could also paint with filling primer and sand smooth, paint... finished.
 
Use a dental pick to check the porosity in that area. Chances are, it's not all the way through. But if it is, then, the most appropriate fix would be to have it welded up.

Second best fix would be to use Ce-Ram-Grout (it's a ceramic epoxy used for filling holes in metal)

5200 is the next best fix.

Once you've repaired it and got your aluminum sanded down to bare metal, self-etching primer is what you want to use. Personally, I would hit it with some phosphoric acid to etch it, then rinse, dry and paint with the self-etching primer. The phosphoric acid will also neutralize any remaining electrolysis in the aluminum.

Once you've applied the self-etching primer, next step is to put down 1 or 2 coats of interlux Interprotect Primer. Yes, it's expensive, about 100 dollars a gallon, but it's cheaper than a new hull!

After the interprotect, you'll want to use a copper thiocyanate-based bottom paint, such as Trilux 33. DO NOT USE CUPROUS OXIDE, IT WILL DESTROY THE HULL!! The Trilux 33 is more expensive than regular bottom paint, because it is specifically formulated for use on aluminum. I've seen a lot of people try to be cheap and use regular bottom paint on aluminum hulls (myself included) and it never works out well in saltwater. Spend the extra money and use the right paint, again, it may be more costly, but a new hull or having to repair electrolysis damage is even more expensive.

This may seem like a lot of extra steps for painting, but since you are in saltwater, they are very necessary steps to prevent electrolysis damage.

And on a final note, since you are in saltwater, do yourself and your hull a HUGE favor, install a large zinc anode on your transom, below the static waterline. Then run a bonding wire from this to the negative post on your battery, or connect it to an existing bond wire terminal which is usually on the PT unit, connected to the factory anode. The factory anodes on your engine will protect your engine, but they will not protect your hull. You need a separate anode for that. For a 14-16 ft hull, you need at least 32 sq inches of galvanic protection.


Here's how mine is set up:


100_0757.JPG


100_0758.JPG


The 2 smaller bolts to the outside are what secures the unit to the hull. These are 1/4", and they are long enough to allow for the thickness of the anode, plus the backer plate. Use a washer on the inside and outside, then, use a lock nut to tighten it down, along with some RTV Ultra Black. This gives you a set of 'studs' to install the backer plate and zinc onto.

The 2 larger bolts in the middle are for securing the zinc to the backer plate. They are 1/2" It is important to use a backer plate, because the zinc will erode quickly around the fastener area, and without a backer plate, it will fall off, leaving the boat with no galvanic protection. The backer plate is a piece of 1/8" aluminum flat bar, with 2 large holes in the middle for securing to the zinc, and 2 smaller holes on the ends to install onto the studs sticking out of the hull.

The purpose of doing it this way is so that when you need to replace the zinc, you don't have to remove any bolts from the hull and then have to re-seal them. You simply remove 2 lock nuts, and pull the assembly off, then replace the zinc.

The bonding wire is 1/16" stainless wire rope, with a ring terminal crimped on either end, for connecting.




Once you have the bottom painted and sealed up, and you install an anode, the electrolysis will slow down a great deal. But it is important to maintain that coat of bottom paint, as well as the anode. If you see the paint being scraped away toward the bow from beaching your boat, you need to re-paint it. It is very important to keep the paint on the hull, any bare metal below the waterline will accumulate growth and begin to succumb to electrolysis, even with an anode.
 
What would be the better fix,marine epoxy paste it,then sand and then primer and paint or would 5200 down then sand,primer and paint.I'm only keeping this thing for a yr or 2 at best,it's no were near all the way through,i scrapped it with a paint scrapper so that would of easily went through if it was full corroded.

I know it will hold up no matter which way i do it but when i sell it i want to make sure it won't fall apart on them.I'm just not going to put hundreds in a small fix like this,like i said i could get a brand new one for near $700.I just found a 1436(same exact boat but green) 2010 crestliner in mint shape with a nice trailer for only $950 down the street from me.
 
Ok this is what i believe will be a 100% perfect repair after doing a ton of research this seems to be the best way to go,I am going to sand the bottom of the boat to just rough it up,then clean it with vinegar,question will vinegar stop the cure of any chemical i want to use,i'm going to marine texflex it,then sand it nice and smooth,then i will see what the gluv it runs.If no glove it i will self etch prime the bare spots or all of it with a very light coat and just spray or roll rustoleum bottom paint on the bottom and i think that will solve the problem 100%.
 
Well the weather is going to be nice here monday through thursday so i'm going to start on the boat and getter done.I'm going to just wet sand the area in question till i get all the pitting out,do i need to put an alumaprep or some sought of stuff like that on there or can i just clean the area good with water,then degrease the area,etch with vinegar,then self etching primer(nice light coat or 2)then just paint.Will that process hold up?

If i have to and it needs it i will put marine flex set on it but i don't believe it's that bad.If anyone has a better way or easier way to do it or i'm missing anything please let me know,thanks for any help.I'm def going to tackle this mon.
 
I just know once i get going there is no stopping me so i will prob light wet sand the whole boat and prime what areas need it,then paint away.There is a ton of areas that look like they could be an issue in the future so i may as well take care of them now,I'm going to do it all by hand.No machines.The rest of the bottom of the boat is in great shape.I'm so mad,i want to get a small 2stroke motor as well as my new 4stroke,i have like 15 gallons of brand new synthetic 2stroke oil in my house,if i sell it i will take a hard hit so i fig get a nice light 15hp 2stroke merc or yamaha and i also want to put it on the back of this boat one day and use the 20hp suzuk i have for a larger boat.


I just want a nice easy one man boat for me,i just want to be able to throw everything on and just go.I found a 2009 15hp 2stroke yamaha at a pawn shop on cl,i didn't have my tools or compression checker,i called them to get in the morning,it was gone 10min after i got off the phone.You ready for this,$800 they sold it for,i was so mad at myself.That is an easy $1500-$1700 motor.I so screwed up and i'm kicking myself in the butt.There will be other deals,i know but that was highway robbery of a deal.I really love the 15hp 2stroke mercs,they are just powerhouses compared to the yamaha if you ask me but the yamaha was a deal of a lifetime. :cry:
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=333053#p333053 said:
scoobeb » Today, 17:27[/url]"]Well the weather is going to be nice here monday through thursday so i'm going to start on the boat and getter done.I9'm going to just wet sand the area in question till i get all the pitting out,do i need to put an alumaprep or some sought of stuff like that on there or can i just clean the area good with water,then degrease the area,etch with vinegar,then self etching primer(nice light coat or 2)then just paint.Will that process hold up?

If i have to and it needs it i will put marine flex set on it but i don't believe it's that bad.If anyone has a better way or easier way to do it or i'm missing anything please let me know,thanks for any help.I'm def going to tackle this mon.


Phosphoric acid will do a better job of etching than vinegar. Acetone is the best thing to use to wipe down with right before hitting it with a coat of self-etching primer. I'm guessing marine flex is some type of epoxy paste similar to marine tex? If so, yes, that should work as a fix. Just be sure to thoroughly clean the area with a wire wheel, then wipe with acetone, to give the epoxy the best chance of adhesion.
 
I'm only going with the epoxy if needed,I don't think it will be though.Here is what i'm going to do step by step.

1-wash down with water
2-degrease the boat
3-wet sand the whole boat lightly and the pitted areas down to smooth
4-clean whole boat with alcohol good
5-clean one good time with acetone
6-etch with vinegar and then self etching primer
7-paint

I think that should work great i hope.I repainted a 15hp 2stroke merc a while back and did it this way and it came out just awesome.The guy i sold it to asked if i ever used it,i told him i totally repainted it,he said wow it looks like a factory paint job and wouldn't of known if i didn't tell him,that was 2 yrs ago,i told him to keep me updated on the motor because i really didn't want to sell it as i had so much into it,manual labor,blood sweat and tears,lol.I made a huge mistake by selling it and i kick myself in the butt for it.Oh well you live and learn,the paint is still perfect to after 2 full yrs of use he said so i must of did a good job.That was my first and only one i ever painted to.
 
Sounds like it was a durable paintjob. If you follow those procedures you described to paint the boat, it should turn out good.

I hear ya on kicking yourself for getting rid of a motor. I say the same thing about my old 14' Duracraft with a 25 Merc. Best little boat I have ever owned, I kick myself every day for getting rid of it!
 
Well friday i'm going to start this deal,my trucks tranny went and is getting fixed,plus i need new rear bearings and a new high side ac switch thats under the dashboard.The truck has only 150,000 miles on it and is a 1995.Everthing i mean everything my mechanic looks original and has never been changed.That amazes me almost 20yrs it's all held up.

The issue i have is i have everything but the bottom paint.I believe i'm going with the rustoleum bottom paint that you roll on.That should be good enough.

Question because i don't exactly rem what i did and how i did it on the outboard.When i degrease do i wash it down again after that?When i do the acetone and vinegar washes do i wash it down again with water after both?I think if i'm sure i did the vinegar last then i primed it then painted it but man i just can't rem exacly what step i did in order.

I guess i just need to know if i wash it down with water after i do all the chemical washes or do i just do the alcohol,let it dry,then acetone then let it dry,then vinegar then let it dry,then prime and paint.

Also how long does the paint take to dry to were i can put the boat back on the bunks of the trailer?
 
Make sure that rust-o-leum bottom paint does not contain cuprous oxide, make sure it's formulated for use on aluminum, or all your effort will be for nothing, electrolysis will eat up the hull.

It's probably best to rinse off all chemical residue, allow it to dry, then wipe with denatured alcohol or better yet, acetone.

As for dry time, if the weather is above 60, I'd give it at least 48 hrs to dry, in colder weather, perhaps as much as 4 or 5 days.
 
So do all the chemical washes and then rinse with water after all of them?Then just right before i prime use alcohol or acetone then prime right away?
 
How many coats of paint do you think would work.I know were i live oysters and rocks are everywere and i won't be able to stop scuffing and scratches.I just want the paint to hold up to were it wont peel off.By the way small change of plans,I have 2 brand new cans of industrial ZC in my paints that i found so i'm going to prime with that instead.

I have read that VHT paint is epoxy paint and will stick extremely good to aluminum,especially in saltwater.I went to my local discount auto yesterday and the guy who works there paints outboards and boats so i got lucky i guess with great info.I told him what i was going to do and he said your on the right track but if it were me and it doesn't have to be pretty as it will solely be on the bottom use the VHT paint he said that they sell.He said it dries like steel on aluminum and you would have a serious hard time getting that off after it's fully done.
 

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