3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

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scoobeb

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I'm going to apply this to the bottom of my boat to fill in pitts.Here is the question i have.I know it says to wipe area down with acetone before use,after you apply the acetone and it dries do i just apply the 5200 right after or do i wash it down one more time with freshwater and then let it dry and then apply?

It says don't use any alcohol because it won't cure so thats out.After the 5200 cures can it be sanded?What i want to do is put a nice skim coat on the bottom of the boat and then sand it smooth,painting it is out because the 5200 flexes and from what ive read will just crack off the area of the 5200.

I'm just going to add a zinc anode to the bottom of the boat and that should take care of anymore pitting from what i read,is this right?Also what size anode would i need for a 1436 jon boat?
 
No need to wash after the acetone, it is designed to remove all oils and residues, and it will rapidly evaporate from the surface, which assures that it's dry. 5200 is not really sandable, it will gum up the paper quickly. So, you'll want to use a plastic putty knife or a bondo knife and try to fair it down as smooth as possible before it starts curing.

For a boat the size of yours, a zinc anode about 4 inches by 8 inches would be adequate. Mount it on the transom, below the static waterline so that it's submerged when the boat is at rest.
 
That was my plan with the 5200,to basically just get it in the pits themselves and not spread a huge mess all over the area,i just want a very thin skim coat and when it's fully cured i will sand it as smooth as i can,iv'e sanded it before it just takes patience and a very fine wet sand,like 800 grit.I'm just wanting to fishing and the painting part will be next summer if i decide to keep it.I just hope it's strong enough being at the bottom of the boat and when i'm going full speed i hope it won't pull off.

I see were people use jb marine weld with good results and i know the strength is incredible at nearly 4000 psi.But will it hold up with a jon boat that flexes that the question?I trailer this boat to as it never,ever sits over night in saltwater.I also clean it with freshwater at a car wash after every use.
 
JB would probably hold up just fine since the flexing is not that localized, plus you can sand the JB, 5200 is kinda like silicone, rubbery.
 
Have you considered fiber-bond? (Bondo with fiberglass hair) I've seen people patch bad spots on aluminum boat with this stuff, and it holds up pretty good. Good preparation of the metal is important. SS wire brush and acetone are definitely needed.
 
I would consider Marine-Tex or Marine Rx. Both are epoxies, sandable, and made for below waterline. You can get a West Marine or use the Google machine.
 
I think i'm just going to leave it alone,or maybe try to sand it out a bit better.It hasn't got anywere near going through the boat but the whole boat is starting to have the same type of corrosion on it.It's not pitted all over the boat but in a few spots.I'm just going to use it as is and have fun instead of worrying about it,i can't see it not making it through the winter here in fl especially if i'm trailering it and cleaning it off after every use.I'm just going to buy a new one next yr and not waste time on this because it's got me stressed out and i just need to fish.

As long as it will make it for say another 6mths to a yr at the most it served it's purpose.I'm ready to catch fish.Now asking all of you by experience,if you don't think it will make it another 6mths to a yr then please tell me then i have no choice but to fix it up.Thanks for putting up with me.
 
If you've ever seen the before pics of my jetboat, you wouldn't be worried about the pitting:


Corrosion Hole Size.jpg

As you can see, this boat not only has pitting, but it has a gigantic hole through the keel. The hole was fixed, but as for the pitting, I used Rust-O-Leum Roll-On truck bed liner, put it on thick, let it fill in the pits, and called it done. 8 years later, still going strong, and doesn't leak a drop.
 
Hey PSG-1 thank you for all the help and the others gave me here.I see what you mean on your boat,that makes mine like new,lol.

I just have one question,if i decide to just leave it alone and do nothing but fish with it,(now rem it's trailered and will never sit in the water longer then i fish with it)will it make it through till summer without getting much worse?I just want to fish now and do this later in the late spring to summer.I rinse the boat down everytime after use,flush my outboard and soak my trailer down.

I just want to make it through the fall,winter and spring,so say 6mths or so.I checked how thick my aluminum by looking in the screw hole i have to seal and it doesn't seem to be anywere near going through the bottom,i mean not even close.Thanks for any input.
 
I figured I'd post that, just to illustrate how bad a hull can really get, still be patched up, and continue to run. Also, I figured your hull is nowhere near this bad!

If you're hauling out every time and you're washing it down with fresh water, the boat should not only last through the summer, but for many years to come. Only thing you need to pay particular attention to with use in saltwater is the bunk carpet absorbing water, and a bare aluminum hull sitting on it. This condition will cause electrolysis in the area where the bunks contact the hull.

Also, be careful about loose fishing sinkers, nuts, bolts, brass from shotgun shells or other ammunition being in the bottom of the boat, especially the bilge area, this can speed up electrolysis.

If you want to know how deep the pits are, use a depth guage. My guess is that most of it will be less than .020" deep. So, even with an .062" hull, that's only 1/3 of the way through. On a .100 hull, it's only 20%.
 
Wow that awesome to hear.So i 'm glad i don't have to worry about falling through the bottom of the boat.Like i said i may keep it or i may sell it next summer.That boat i have is close to $1400 brand new if you could believe that,it's the exact same boat as lowe,probally made in the same factory,it's $1279 plus tax for a 1436,but if i went with the no live well alumacraft i can get the lightweight jon boat for only $799 and thats all i need.IT IS ONLY A .053 GUAGE ALUMINUM THOUGH COMPARED TO THIS BOAT AT .064.

I really hate live well jon boats,i have no luck with them.I don't understand for the life of me why they rivet through the bottom of the boat with the livewell,why don't they just have a solid aluminum box as a livewell built into the seat.I bought a brand new 1442 lw alumacraft a while ago and had to sell it,money reasons but that boat sucked.The rivets in the livewell would leak water into the boat when i filled it up from the very first time i used it.I used it as a cooler in the summer and i use to get water from all the ice in the boat,they welded it up after putting over size rivets in it,didn't help.Finally i said weld all the rivets solid and finally after 5 times in the shop they got it right.This started from the first time i took the boat out in the water.I got home and the rivets were just popping out from under the livewell.

(PSG-1 I also got some info off some other forums and one guy said you went as far as cleaning it up,he said you can rough it up a bit more with sandpaper,wipe good with acetone and then wire brush all the pitts as good as you can to were there is no white powder left,then wash good with water,then he said buy phosphoric acid from home depot and spray it on the pitted areas,then wash off good after it sits for 3-5 min then rub some jb weld or marine tex on it,let it cure for a bit,sand it down and then go fishing,he said that should hold up for many,many yrs.What do you think?I think your a smart man and know what your doing so i just want to see if you agree with him.)
 
He's right, but the application of acetone and phosphoric acid is reversed. The phosphoric acid needs to be applied first, then the acetone. It is important to do it in this order to remove any residue that could interfere with a good bond of your 5200, epoxy, etc. Continue to wipe the acetone with clean rags, until you see no more residue, at that point, let it evaporate, and you're ready to apply your sealant.
 
what he said on iboats.com



You can use the acetone before you grind out the pits and just use the acid after grinding....the acetone will remove contaminates so you dont push them down into the surface while grinding. The acid etches the aluminum, so to speak, and the water removes residuals before the bond.


He said put the acid on last so it acts like an etch for the epoxy.Thats why i'm showing you this.Does it matter either way?I just want to make sure it sticks to the aluminum if i do it.But as you said it will last a long while like it is no matter what i do so that makes me feel a bit better.
 
I got this boat in a package deal so i have no idea what the last owner did to it.Do you really think this boat would last for many yrs if i do nothing to it?I really have never seen this before,i have never had a pit in any of my jon boats,this is the first.

I redid the bunks myself with reg pine 2x4's,no pressure treated wood on this boat.I just wrapped the 2x4's with the cheap green turf looking carpet you get at lowes,it doesn't seem to hold water,it dries fast to.
 
Even if the carpet is fast-drying, it's still saturated with salt, which becomes even more alkaline as it dries out. This stays in contact with the hull. As long as you have good bottom paint, it won't matter. Both my boat trailers have carpeted bunks, but I have bottom paint on my boats, so, it's a non-issue.

I have seen a lot of bare aluminum boats that had hulls in good overall condition, except for the area where they touched the bunks, electrolysis had eaten them up.

He is correct about using the acetone to clean before grinding, try to remove as much paint, etc as possible before wire wheeling, so you don't force that mess down into the pits. But as I said before, wiping down with acetone is the last thing you do before painting. You don't want to use water, because any minerals, chlorine, etc could interfere with your epoxy or paint. And because aluminum is a somewhat porous metal (more so than steel, anyhow) it tends to absorb the last thing it was in contact with. And although the metal may 'look' dry, you can take a hair dryer to it, and as it heats up, it will sweat out the absorbed moisture. As you can imagine, this would cause some issues with painting or epoxy-ing. Acetone leaves no moisture, it rapidly evaporates, and actually dries out any remaining moisture.


Use a small stainless scratch brush, to scrub down in the pits when you're washing down with acetone. This will get every last bit of it out, even from the deepest pits, which assures the best chance of the material bonding to the surface.

Acetone removes every bit of residue, and any oils. Trust me on this. My info came from a guy who does nothing but boat restorations and repair.
 
So this is what i gather,if i leave it alone completely and do nothing it will last for a long while,more then 6-8mths?When and if i decide to keep it or sell it then i will follow all the directions you gave me.I'm actually going to print them out so i don't forget.

Right now i just want to fish with my little girl,the season here in fl ends fast,it gets hot very early here and i only have maybe six mths to do some serious trout fishing before they go out deeper.I will trust what you say that it will do very little to near no more damage in that time and if it just gets a hair worse then it still workable.Also to as my luck would be were my new bunks are going on the trailer it will not be hitting the same area as were the pits are and there is still paint that is holding up good in that area,lol.Here is a pic of the bottom of the boat and the bunks will be going on the farthest outside channels of the boat.

Were you see the pitting the bunks are going all the way outside of that,at the ends of the boat so the bunks will be sitting on the factory paint.But the pitts will still be bare till summer.
 

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Yep, if it were me, I'd go fishing with it as it is for now, and deal with fixing it later. That pitting isn't bad enough to compromise the hull, at least from what I see. Trust me, if the deep pitting in my jetboat isn't leaking, I don't think you need to worry about your boat very much. Especially if you're hauling out. I've been using aluminum boats in saltwater for 30 years, so, I know most of the ins and outs of electrolysis.
 
Thank you very much for all your help,it means alot to me.I will more then likely keep it,but like i said for now i'm going to have a ton of fun and post some pics of my little girl catching a nice fish,lol.I would def like to keep it because it's a great brand boat and well built,it a very strong boat and it's held up for the last 10+yrs with little issue.I will get it done right in the summer and if i need more help i will come here.If i do it i'm going all out with the gluv it also after i patch everything up,i heard that stuff is awesome. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 
I wanted to ask you one last question.When i use the gluv it,do i still use zc primer over that and paint it or do i just clean,jb weld it,gluv it and paint it?
 
Gluvit is great stuff but it does not have UV inhibitors. If its on the bottom of the boat and the sun isn't hitting it you don't have to paint it. If it gets sun you do. You can overcoat with any paint that is compatible with epoxy.
 

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