Winter project--Want your advice

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Southern Appal

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I have a 1969 Polar Kraft flat bottom that I am beginning to sand and prep for painting. I have no knowledge of boats except what I learn reading your posts. I am getting on in years, have few tools, and fewer skills. But I want to fix this vessel and go fishing and rowing and just be out on the water.

The rivets for the transom brace have been covered with a thick puddle of what looks like silicone sealant both inside and outside. You can see the bubbles in it and its stretchability in the pics.

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So I removed the sealant, and the rivets holding the transom brace in place are large and protrude too far in my opinion.

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I want to know if the transom brace is compromised by the sloppy job of having removed and replaced the rivets. Should I drill out the rivets from the inside of the boat? Then clean up the holes and put new rivets in? Should I try to flatten the surface where the rivets need to be put in?

I have more questions regarding getting this little project done, but I will leave it at this for the moment. Thanks.
 

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Jane, as you can see, the rivets were not bucked completely and leaked. That section can be a real bear to repair. You'll need to hold a 5lb hammer over the top of the rivet inside the hull as an anvil and beat the bottom until it mushrooms with a 16 or 24oz ball peen hammer. It might be easier to have a helper hold the boat on it's side while you work the hammers as you wrap your arms around the transom. It'll also buck easier if the rivet is heated with a propane or Mapp gas torch.

Or you could smother the previous repair with 3M's 5200 and not worry about it too much. The 5200 is like crazy glue for boats.

Great fun either way and welcome to the forum.
 
1st question would be "does the boat leak?"
2nd question: if so, where is it leaking from.

The bubbles in the silicone look like the previous owner just squirted enough to cover the area, and was not concerned with the quality of work done.

Can't comment on the quality of rivet work done as "just don't know"
 
Thanks for the input. PO said boat does not leak. I haven't had it in water yet, but having removed the patches, I suspect it would leak now. :D I am hesitant to re- buck the existing rivets, in part because of their length, and also because I want to be sure there is 5200 surrounding them. If I go with SS nuts and bolts, should I try to put washers on also?
 
I wouldn't use washers. Just get a screw that is matches the dia of the hole after you drill out the rivets. I like to use the lock nuts with the nylon inserts.
 
I know many on here have used stainless nuts and bolts below the water line with success, but I'm a big fan of solid rivets below the water line, especially on places like transom braces. If I were you I'd get a cheap Harbor Freight air hammer/chisel and rivet bucking tool for the air hammer and get some new rivets in the correct length. After you remove the old rivets and clean up around the old holes, setting the new rivets (with a dab of 5200 on them) will take less time than it takes your compressor to get up to pressure. I replaced MANY solid rivets on my boat when I redid my transom, removed my middle bench seat and installed my bow deck. The $30 or so I spent on the air hammer and rivet tool have already more than paid for itself and I'm figuring I'll eventually need it down the road, so it's sure nice to have.

This is the air hammer I got. I don't remember where I got my rivet tool for it, but there are many places online to find one.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/hammers/air-impact-hammer-kit-92037.html
 

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