10 foot aluminum jon boat leaky rivets

Heres what has happened.I wanted a boat real bad.So i seen one for sale.It was a jon boat a 10 foot.I knew nothing to look for when buying a boat.
Since getting it home I have learned some.But what I am looking at now is.
They are 5 rivets slowly dripping after doing the leak test.Like one drop of water every 3 to 5 minutes.
Then the drain plug part is bent so the plug that goes in the tube part is not making a good cover so it is leaking water.
The boat itself is a appleby i think its called.Maybe from the 70';s I believe.
I'm stuck with it for now So i got to fix these leaks.
I have been told of a product called gluvit, and also 3m 5200.
I really do not know what to use to fix these problems.
I also have a welder coming to look at it tomorrow.He is the only one that welds aluminum in my area believe it or not.
I am open to any suggestions.
This is my first ever boat and I really would like to use it.
Thanks guys
ive completely sanded it down with a palm sander.

i have had luck when sealing leaky rivets by using a rubber spray called leak seal by Rustoleum.

I had a 1952 Alumacraft 16' that had the same issue.

I ended up replacing about 15-20 rivets.

Some were original hand pounded rivets, and some were replacement closed blind rivets?

Basically I took a drill bit just about the same diameter as the shaft of the rivet, not the head.

I drilled straight through the head, down the shaft. Being careful to try to keep the bit straight so I did not expand the hole more than needed.

Usually...not all the time, the rivet shaft would fall off, and the head would pop off as well. Sometimes the head would hold and and you just have to pop it off with a flathead.

Then like most guys here will tell ya, get some closed end blind rivets ( I got a pack from some online store, I forgot) with the correct diameter and shaft length.

Squeeze some 3M 5200 on the shaft, pop them in.

Not pretty, but it worked.



I even added some on the inside to hold a little more.

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=357163#p357163 said:

tonynoriega » 26 Jun 2014, 10:14[/url]"]
...Then like most guys here will tell ya, get some closed end blind rivets ( I got a pack from some online store, I forgot) with the correct diameter and shaft length.

Squeeze some 3M 5200 on the shaft, pop them in.

Not pretty, but it worked.

Click to expand...

Everything you need to know is right there.

Closed end blind rivets can be found here:

https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html

You want the rivet to be Aluminum but the mandrel (the pin through the center of it) to be Steel so you get a good tight crimp.

3m 5200 is in the caulk section at Lowes, I would imagine you'd find it at home depot too...

ok but how do I know what size rivets to get ? I know nothing about rivets and such

and is this a permanent fix?

also how can i fix the 2 holes in the hull?

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=357236#p357236 said:

bluedragon2k9 » 26 Jun 2014, 14:19[/url]"]also how can i fix the 2 holes in the hull?

Click to expand...

You must have bought your boat from the same guy I did.
He claimed it didn't leak.
My first boat... whay do I know?
(a lot more now!)

9 leaks. about a gallon an hour or so.
Went to the local boat shop, bought the (expensive) Gluvit.
A gallon of it. $130.00!

I've used most of it.
Used pure silicon to fill the larger holes.
Coated the entire bottom.
Twice.

Did another leak test, found more leaks up the sides.
(I will never own a riveted boat again. Ever.)

Coated those.
On my way out the door right now for a third leak test.
(The Gluvit worked amazingly well; sealed 6 leaks on the bottom.)

Gluvit claims it is a 'neutral' color.
I suppose it is neutral if you like blond.
It is very thick stuff.
But, when cured, it is solid. Very hard (durable), yet flexible.
Pretty impressed.

I will recommend it to others who are silly enough, like me, to buy an old riveted boat.

Oh come now - you learned that before you buy an old riveted boat you check it first by filling it with water...

The Gulvit is a band-aide fix, it will last 5 or so years but then cracks & is just another layer of mess to work through to try & fix.

The 5200 + replacing the rivets is a permanent fix.

As far as sizing the rivet - drill off the head of the existing rivet without drilling into the hull of the boat - the head will come off pretty easily. Pop the rivet body out of the boat (using a small nail if it's being stubborn) this will leave a neat & clean hole drilled through the side. Take your set of drill bits and figure out what size hole you've got...buy the rivets accordingly (you may want to see if you can go up one size & drill the hole out a smidge so you know you're working with clean edges around the hole...

As far as patching a hole in the side of the boat - could you a few pics?

the holes are on the back side of the boat it is covered in what looks like silicone? the back corners of the boat is coated with a silcone type substance to.
here is some pics

im really kicking my *** here i should of looked at the boat better

so what do u all think i should do?

Unless the rivet is actually loose to the touch there is a simpler solution.
I learned this in the www.aomci.org site.
Get some super glue and wick it into the rivet that is leaking. Simple as that.
Just make sure the rivet is completely dry. May have to warm it with a torch to make sure or just let it sit for a couple days.
I have tried both standard super glue and I also have some "medium" super glue for R/C modelling that I use.
I have more faith in the medium but both will work.

I had similar gobs of sealant on nuts and bolts on my boat. I was able to remove the stuff by using a utility knife to cut through so that I could pull up on an edge of it. Took some work for all six nuts. Cleaned it up with acetone. getting the holes patched with piece of sheet welded over the area. Then I can drill new holes and install SS bolts with 3M 5200 and Nylanuts. Then Gluvit and paint.

You can re-buck the leaky rivets. Have a friend hold a large hammer against one side of the rivet and you hit the other side of the rivet with another big hammer.

Here's my fix to leaky rivets.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17096&p=235082&hilit=Durafix#p235082

In less than 2 hours we've had superglue and "whack it with a hammer"...surprised no one suggested duct-tape...complete the holy trinity of hillbilly repair advice.

Don't get your self upset. get some Marine Epoxy at Home depot orLowes. It works fine just do the bottom use a acid brush works great

oh i'm not upset - just having a good laugh that's all...the rebucking is a perfectly sound option - just a PITA.

guys can I just drill out the rivets and replace with ss bolts and some 5200 marine sealant with nylock nuts?The problem with replacing my with more rivets is I would have to order them online.So i would have to guess on what size rivet i would need.Etc get what i am saying .If i can use bolts it would be much easier for me and everything.Can someone please explain the bolt method?
Also for the holes in the hull could I use a peice of aluminum sheet metal and some some marine sealnt to seal it up maybe a few bolts?