Floor material?

I am looking at flooring options and I am going to be puting anti-fatigue mats down. I am looking for material to put down over the ridgid foam and was wanting to know what y'all think about using that plastic cardboard like they make beer signs out of.

i use that stuff (mostly from political signs, etc) for free target holders at the range. i really don't think it will hold up to being walked on though.

Probably very slick when wet too - I used FRP sheeting for the same idea (fiberglass panels for shower walls & stuff) which you can coat with rubberized paint to solve the slipping problem.

I'm putting foam mats down over the rigid foam so I was wanting to know if the plastic cardboard would be ok to put in between the mats and the rigid foam.

Trying to figure out what you're trying to accomplish here? Are you concerned that the top layer of foam will not provide enough support to prevent you from getting depressions in the rigid foam as you walk around on it over time? If so then your corrugated plastic will probably work.

Test it on the ground - throw a sheet of rigid foam down with the plastic over it and your soft foam on top & see if it holds up - if not I'm sure the FRP will work for you. My deck is FRP with expanded foam behind it - no soft layer on top.

So do you think I can just put the mats over the rigid foam and that would ok with nothing in between?

That "stuff" is known as coroplast. It is used, not only for political signs, but also to build boats and model airplanes. It's negative for your use is that it is made up of corrugations, much like cardboard. The air passages would collapse when you stepped on them, when used over a deck. IMHO.

Great stuff, when used used for the correct application. richg99
https://www.elkinsdiy.com/micro-boats/coroplast-speed-boat/

Another option on a floor is plywood with LineX or Rhino Liner. I have done two 1648 Alumacraft floors with foam in between the ribs and then notched and cut 1/2" marine plywood to fit. After sanding and detailing the plywood and filling any small voids, I took the pieces to my local LineX dealer who is about 25 minutes away. He sprayed the top and edges for me and added a LineX clear coat which smooths out (fills in) the roughness. There is plenty of texture left for non-skid, but the gritty, catch every little piece of dirt quality is gone.

There are a host of standard colors to pick from. I went with a battleship grey on one boat as I had painted the hull a light grey. The other one was sand which was a nice light contrast to the standard olive green. Screw them down in a pattern to the ribs with #10 stainless screws and finish washers, and man, it is a nice looking floor. Sweep or hose the boat out to clean it and nothing to absorb or hold water and dirt like carpet, etc.

I also cut and fitted plywood seat tops and had them LineX'd as well. That gave me better mounting options for pin bases or the adjustable seat rails on the front of the benches.

I believe the guy charged me $65 or $85 to do the LineX, so it was very reasonable. One important thing, you have to keep the plywood dry before applying the LineX. In other words, don't let it get wet. Take it in the house for a day after it is cut or sanded before you take it to the dealer so some of the humidity can evaporate from the wood. And if rain is in the forecast on the day you're headed there, don't go and schedule another day. The LineX comes out of the gun at a very high temperature. If it hits any moisture, it will do a "pop" and create a tiny (or big if there is really water present) crater and the surface won't end up consistent looking.

Anyway, the floors turned out great both times. Just another option.

[url=https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=366603#p366603 said:

zseverns » 19 Sep 2014, 22:10[/url]"]So do you think I can just put the mats over the rigid foam and that would ok with nothing in between?

Click to expand...

No, I doubt that would work - but it's easy enough to test out.

Even if your corrugated material collapses on itself the rigidity of the plastic will be enough to distribute the load and keep the rigid foam from crushing. If you've already got it I'd say work with it. For the way you're doing this if you have to buy something, buy FRP ($32 per 4x8 sheet) and put it between the soft foam and the rigid - or just on top of the rigid and forget the soft foam unless it was a comfort thing...

It is actually just called corrugated plastic, coroplast is a brand name (like Xerox).

It is good for making cheap airplanes though like was mentioned.
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I think it will work fine for your application. At worst you could pre-smash it and double the layer.
Need to do something positive with the political garbage. :LOL2: