zseverns
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Any one ever put something like a keel guard on an aluminum boat. I got a brand new weldbilt 1652v and would like to protect the bottom when beaching or pulling up to the boat ramp. Or what else would work?
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Keel guard on an aluminum boat
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shootandfish1
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Hi, My name is Fred from Harrodsburg, Ky and I know exactly what you are facing as I had the same problem with my SeaArk 2072. Read all about my tale of woe.
https://www.catfish1.com/forums/sho...eel-Bottom-Hull-Damage-From-Beaching-on-Ramps
Please read thru the thread I started over a year ago. Please, note that there is more to the story than I posted. My wife broke her foot as this project was in progress and I never posted the final outcome.
It's late and I've got a full load tomorrow, but I will do my best to post the 'rest of the story' as soon as I can.
Fred
On Edit- I have 2 very good pics at the bottom of page 3. Don't run off 'half-cocked' with my solution, until I get back.
https://www.catfish1.com/forums/sho...eel-Bottom-Hull-Damage-From-Beaching-on-Ramps
Please read thru the thread I started over a year ago. Please, note that there is more to the story than I posted. My wife broke her foot as this project was in progress and I never posted the final outcome.
It's late and I've got a full load tomorrow, but I will do my best to post the 'rest of the story' as soon as I can.
Fred
On Edit- I have 2 very good pics at the bottom of page 3. Don't run off 'half-cocked' with my solution, until I get back.
Some line x might work on the areas that are getting scuffed up, but will add resistance to the hull and you will lose some speed, depending on how much, etc. Look up steel flex, gator hide, other hull coatings that might work for you.
lckstckn2smknbrls
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Ice runners might work.
PSG-1
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I put a keel guard on my jet boat, as well as my Triton 1650. The one on my Triton fell off, though, because of the abuse it has endured from pulling up to oyster reefs, and at the landing. It lasted about 4 years, even with that abuse. For the average person, and average use of a boat, they should last a long time, as long as you're not running it up on a concrete ramp, or oyster rocks.
I think for that boat I may end up welding an aluminum angle down the center strake, at least for the first 4-5 ft, as this is where it really takes the hits.
I think for that boat I may end up welding an aluminum angle down the center strake, at least for the first 4-5 ft, as this is where it really takes the hits.
shootandfish1
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I'm going to try to post some pics
shootandfish1
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I just wrote a long narrative on edit and 'timed' out.
Bottom line-after the first piece was welded, I had 6 more stirps welded where the hulll is 'V' shaped, sorry, no pics.
and had over 80 leaks...........The keel is 3/16 structrual aluminum and the 2 hull sections are marine alloy aluminum. Welder, vocational trained and has an excellent reputation as the best aluminum welder in my area, had no experience with marine alloy (bass boats are preferred here). He did try to make it right and after 6 return trips over a month, got all the leaks fixed except for 1 minor one and I'm going to try West System G-flex epoxy.
Bottom line-after the first piece was welded, I had 6 more stirps welded where the hulll is 'V' shaped, sorry, no pics.
and had over 80 leaks...........The keel is 3/16 structrual aluminum and the 2 hull sections are marine alloy aluminum. Welder, vocational trained and has an excellent reputation as the best aluminum welder in my area, had no experience with marine alloy (bass boats are preferred here). He did try to make it right and after 6 return trips over a month, got all the leaks fixed except for 1 minor one and I'm going to try West System G-flex epoxy.
zseverns
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shootandfish1
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Yes, It did indeed 'suck', I tested the first strip, perfect, no leaks and very strongly welded. SeaArks keel is 3/16 structural aluminum, the hull sections are marine alloy 1/8 in thick. My welder,although vocational trained, had no experience with the marine alloy and this is where I had the leaks.
I had discussed the Hamby neoprene keel guard at length with their current Tech Rep (he also said he was the former owner of Hamby.
He told that their neoprene keel guard would not work on my SeaArk due to the keel is 'V' shaped and the 2 adjoining hull sections are welded at the top of the 'V'. the angle where the 'V' and hull meet is too much and the neoprene's memory would not allow the material to conform the the hulls shape.
I had also talked at length with a Line-x tech rep and the Sarasto, FL line-x owner.......This was going to be very $$$$$. And I'm could not get clear answers on how line-x would hold up on concrete ramps.
During my 'research' from industry and fellow boaters, I got all kind of strange responses. Either, 'I never heard of problems',or, 'I was being too abusive or expecting too much'. A few folks freely admitted to hull damage, sadly discovered too late.
i still believe my plan was good and sound, cost effective, but needed a welder experienced with marine alloy
I had discussed the Hamby neoprene keel guard at length with their current Tech Rep (he also said he was the former owner of Hamby.
He told that their neoprene keel guard would not work on my SeaArk due to the keel is 'V' shaped and the 2 adjoining hull sections are welded at the top of the 'V'. the angle where the 'V' and hull meet is too much and the neoprene's memory would not allow the material to conform the the hulls shape.
I had also talked at length with a Line-x tech rep and the Sarasto, FL line-x owner.......This was going to be very $$$$$. And I'm could not get clear answers on how line-x would hold up on concrete ramps.
During my 'research' from industry and fellow boaters, I got all kind of strange responses. Either, 'I never heard of problems',or, 'I was being too abusive or expecting too much'. A few folks freely admitted to hull damage, sadly discovered too late.
i still believe my plan was good and sound, cost effective, but needed a welder experienced with marine alloy
New River Rat
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I am probably as rough on a boat as you'll find, and I've never added anything. However, if I did, I would find someone experienced in attaching UHMW (Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene), and have that added to the bottom.
Here is an example.
Here is an example.
lckstckn2smknbrls
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Ice runners are a factory option on SeaArk boats.shootandfish1 said:
shootandfish1
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lckstckn2smknbrls said:
yep, hindsight is always 20/20. My next boat will have them for sure. One thing is that SeaArk does not place Ice Runners on the keel, Just the bends in the hull, 3 per side, (CUB's get 4 per side). Should buying a second seaark come a reality, I'm driving to the factory , before the pre-order mainly to see if I can get them to address protecting the keel.
My first thought was to take my 2072 back to the factory and have the icerunners installed. Combined costs of 1500 mi round trip, motels, plus de-rig and re-rig soon added up. SeaArk has to flip the boat in order to weld on the icerunners.
Using a local guy cost me $700, but I was 'sick' for about 6 weeks last summer, not to mention not being able to take the boat out.
PSG-1
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New River Rat has the right idea. This would be the ultimate in protection.
As for Line-X...don't waste your money. I know a guy that had it done to his DuraCraft. Simply running the boat on and off the wooden ramp of his dock, he ended up with a giant sheet of de-laminated Line-X that was flopping underneath his boat when he was running along on plane...not to mention his wallet being more floppy from being about 600 dollars lighter. :shock:
As for Line-X...don't waste your money. I know a guy that had it done to his DuraCraft. Simply running the boat on and off the wooden ramp of his dock, he ended up with a giant sheet of de-laminated Line-X that was flopping underneath his boat when he was running along on plane...not to mention his wallet being more floppy from being about 600 dollars lighter. :shock:
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