Setting Solid Rivets in Single Layer Hole?

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Onytay

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Hey Guys

Started doing some work on my build and have a quick question. I removed the center seat on my 1648 Alumacraft and separated the livewell from it. I am reusing the livewell in a different location. However the Manufacturer decided to rivet the livwell to the bottom of the boat. I intend on filling these holes with solids rivets and a dab of 5200. My question is should i cut a small piece of aluminum for each and run a rivet through the hull and the small piece of aluminum to give it some strength or just run the rivet through the hull only. I'm afraid that by running it through the hull only it will be a weak area if I ever happen to catch the rivet head on a rock or ground.

What do you guys think, rivet through just the hull or add a piece of aluminum to beef the area up?

In case your wondering the deck will extend back to the center seat location and be attached to the hull in the original location of the seat to add strength back into the hull.

Thanks!
 
I drilled out a few holes from where the PO of my boat had a transducer mounted with screws and a bunch of silicone of some sort. This was right at the bottom of the transom where it meets the hull bottom, a pretty significant structural part of any boat. Made the holes the appropriate size for my rivets and installed them with a bit of 5200. Did not add any extra aluminum of any sort and don't see any reason to do so. I'd be more concerned about properly installing the rivets to ensure they are water tight. Ive had zero problems with mine and ive had a few very hard rock strikes. One hard enough to destroy my jet foot and another enough to put a1" x 1/4" hole in my hull. Looking back at these pictures it's amazing how straight/level my hull used to be!!!

Here is the original holes.
IMAG0537.jpg


IMAG0539.jpg


Here is after I installed my rivets.
IMAG0600.jpg


IMAG0602.jpg
 
Just rivets will be fine, you can trim the rivets shorter so that there is not so much metal on the inside.
 
Just a thought - aside from adding another layer of metal for the possible need to greater strength, you also need to consider the Grip range of the rivets you are using. If the single layer of metal you are going to place the rivet in is lower than the specified range of the rivet "grip range" you will not have a tight fitting rivet. Keep this in mind . . .

CMOS
 
CMOS said:
Just a thought - aside from adding another layer of metal for the possible need to greater strength, you also need to consider the Grip range of the rivets you are using. If the single layer of metal you are going to place the rivet in is lower than the specified range of the rivet "grip range" you will not have a tight fitting rivet. Keep this in mind . . .

CMOS


Already looked into the grip range. I ordered ones long enough for 2 layers but planned to trim the 8 for the bottom if I decided to go through a single layer. I'm leaning towards doubling it up for a piece of mind because they are on the bottom. If they were in the side or transom I wouldn't be nearly as worried .
 
You won't need to worry about grip range with solid rivets. Other than the cosmetics of having to much aluminum on the inside, solid rivets aren't like blind rivets when it comes to grip range.
 
BigTerp said:
You won't need to worry about grip range with solid rivets. Other than the cosmetics of having to much aluminum on the inside, solid rivets aren't like blind rivets when it comes to grip range.

Thats good to know. I really don't care what they look like because they will be covered by the deck. As long as they don't leak that's the important part.
 
Grip range matters if you are trying to attach something, all you are doing is plugging a hole, the 5200 alone would probably be enough grip for that.
 
surfman said:
Grip range matters if you are trying to attach something, all you are doing is plugging a hole, the 5200 alone would probably be enough grip for that.

So your saying solid rivet & 5200 and I'd be gtg? No real need to add a piece of aluminum for strength?
 
Onytay said:
surfman said:
Grip range matters if you are trying to attach something, all you are doing is plugging a hole, the 5200 alone would probably be enough grip for that.

So your saying solid rivet & 5200 and I'd be gtg? No real need to add a piece of aluminum for strength?

Yes. And I agree with surfman.

Reference my pictures above. My holes were not on the bottom of the hull, but all I did was drill them out to the proper size for the rivets I had, add a little 5200 to the shaft of each solid rivet and installed. I used the head of a 5# hammer and a pneumatic air chisel with rivet tool attachment to do all of my solid rivet work on my boat.
 
Awesome. We will give it a go if the USPS would stop sending my rivet set tool to the wrong town. 3rd times a charm I hope.
 
You will need to set the rivet though, not sure of the proper terminology but don't just cram a rivet in the hole with some glue on it, set it with a couple of hammers, ez-pz.
 
surfman said:
You will need to set the rivet though, not sure of the proper terminology but don't just cram a rivet in the hole with some glue on it, set it with a couple of hammers, ez-pz.

I plan to set the rivet just like you normally would.
 
BigTerp said:
Onytay said:
surfman said:
Grip range matters if you are trying to attach something, all you are doing is plugging a hole, the 5200 alone would probably be enough grip for that.

So your saying solid rivet & 5200 and I'd be gtg? No real need to add a piece of aluminum for strength?

Yes. And I agree with surfman.

Reference my pictures above. My holes were not on the bottom of the hull, but all I did was drill them out to the proper size for the rivets I had, add a little 5200 to the shaft of each solid rivet and installed. I used the head of a 5# hammer and a pneumatic air chisel with rivet tool attachment to do all of my solid rivet work on my boat.

He's telling you right at how to "buck rivets". Sometimes, you can't reach on both sides of the boat, so you get a helper to hold the steel block, or hammer, while you run the pneumatic air rivet gun. Be sure you or your helper holds it up against the boat real tight to get a good tight seal. Do it and get off of it. Good luck! Keep us posted.
 

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