Attaching framing to ribs?

Hey folks,
So I got the foam board in my boat between the ribs, now it's time to start the framing for the decks. The boat is a PolarKraft 1448 flat. I've got 1/8" x 2" aluminium angle for the framing. I'm doing a cross between these two pictures. A slanted vertical at the sides attached to the ribs as they follow the walls up, two vertical supports off center to support two horizontal braces to directly attach my pedestal seat base to.



My question is about attaching the angle to the ribs. I was thinking that I have two options. I was either going to use self drilling 3/4" coated #12's with silicone between the rib and angle to absorb vibration, or use aluminium rivets. For the rivets I was thinking that I'd need to use structural rivets with dome heads for the added strength. Which would be better for attaching the angle to the ribs?

Thanks!

I used blind rivets to attach my angle to the ribs and solid rivets to attach them to the side of the hull. No issues in over a year since I did it. Here is how I did all my framing.

https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774&start=180

Awesome, that's the feedback I was looking for. What size blind rivets did you use? Here's what I'm looking at from McMaster Carr. Also, did you use a manual rivet tool? I'm looking at the drill attachment tools for like $75, but I don't know if I'll need it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#97447a651/=uv3xpv

I used aluminum structural sections to frame the bow deck for my Bayrunner. Fastened with 5200 grade aluminum blind rivets, 3/16" diameter, from Grainger. Bought the air operated rivet tool from HF (the higher capacity one - about $80 I think). One of my better investments - worked like a charm and I still have the tool for future projects.

Deck is holding up great.

brittonp83 said:

Awesome, that's the feedback I was looking for. What size blind rivets did you use? Here's what I'm looking at from McMaster Carr. Also, did you use a manual rivet tool? I'm looking at the drill attachment tools for like $75, but I don't know if I'll need it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#97447a651/=uv3xpv

Click to expand...

IIRC I used 3/16" aluminum blind rivets with aluminum mandrel. I got mine from here. Make sure you get all aluminum. The steel mandrel ones will rust.

https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/blind-rivets/aluminum-rivet-w-aluminum-mandrel-and-dome-head.html

I used a standard hand rivet tool without any issues. I'm sure the pneumatic or drill type are nice, but I don't see a need to spend that kind of $ on a rivet tool for blind rivets. A decent hand tool works fine. I would guess I set over 150 blind rivets with this rivet tool. If your setting a bunch at a time your hand may get a little tire/wore out, but that's what beer breaks are for :beer:

https://www.tooltopia.com/marson-39000.aspx

BigTerp said:

brittonp83 said:

Awesome, that's the feedback I was looking for. What size blind rivets did you use? Here's what I'm looking at from McMaster Carr. Also, did you use a manual rivet tool? I'm looking at the drill attachment tools for like $75, but I don't know if I'll need it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#97447a651/=uv3xpv

Click to expand...

IIRC I used 3/16" aluminum blind rivets with aluminum mandrel. I got mine from here. Make sure you get all aluminum. The steel mandrel ones will rust.

https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/blind-rivets/aluminum-rivet-w-aluminum-mandrel-and-dome-head.html

I used a standard hand rivet tool without any issues. I'm sure the pneumatic or drill type are nice, but I don't see a need to spend that kind of $ on a rivet tool for blind rivets. A decent hand tool works fine. I would guess I set over 150 blind rivets with this rivet tool. If your setting a bunch at a time your hand may get a little tire/wore out, but that's what beer breaks are for :beer:

https://www.tooltopia.com/marson-39000.aspx

Click to expand...

I used to be of the same mind. However, on this project I had a number of rivets, the 3/16" being a little harder to pull than the 1/8" ones I was used to. To top it off, access for the pull was limited or awkward for some of them. That prompted the purchase. Now, I can't go back

Fortunately, I don't have a compressor at the house, and I'm not able to put my boat in the shop to use that one, so no pneumatic rivet gun for me. Saves me some money.

Do you think the structural vs nonstructural blind rivets makes a difference? The weight rating was 660 vs 700 lbs, so it can't be too big of a difference right?

Did any of ya'll add silicone between the two surfaces to absorb vibration?

Thanks, the feedback has been great so far!

brittonp83 said:

Fortunately, I don't have a compressor at the house, and I'm not able to put my boat in the shop to use that one, so no pneumatic rivet gun for me. Saves me some money.

Do you think the structural vs nonstructural blind rivets makes a difference? The weight rating was 660 vs 700 lbs, so it can't be too big of a difference right?

Did any of ya'll add silicone between the two surfaces to absorb vibration?

Thanks, the feedback has been great so far!

Click to expand...

On the rivets, I did loading calcs. on the members and used the rivet data to determine how many rivets were needed to handle about 2X that load.

I used 3M 5200 between the mating surfaces of the members. Mainly to keep moisture out (blind rivet failures I've seen in the past have occurred by corrosion between two joined members).

I did not use any sort of silicone to my blind rivets. I do use 5200 on through hull rivets, but those are all solid aluminum rivets. If you set your rivets nice and tight there should be no vibration.