rough water boat question??

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Artjr

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Hello, I am new to this forum as of today!! I live in KS and of course we have wind here which can mean some rough water on the lakes. I am looking to get an aluminum boat to rebuild. I would like some of your input to see what you think. Before I jump in and perhaps build the wrong boat. LOL I mostly will be fishing alone. I have owned boats in the past but mostly Fiberglass Ranger VS series. However, due to job changes and the fact I mostly like to crappie fish and pan fish and catfish a Ranger really was not what I wanted. I want a boat I don't worry about, cost me a ton to run and won't cry if it gets banged against a tree or stump. So here are my questions.

1. Remembering the wind here what size boat do you think would work? I am thinking at least 14 foot long.
2. I think a deep V would be best???
3. I am on a tight budget so a super deep V Lund is probably out of the question unless some one has one for under a grand. LOL Are there any brands that seem to be better than others??
4. If doing a remodel has anyone ever added a steering wheel set up to a previous tiller boat?? Or would I be better to look for that if that is what I want.
5. I have done auto restorations so I am use to that kind of. LOL Where do you get paint for an Aluminum boat or after it is primed can you use auto paint on it??
6. When running wiring for lights ect do you ever run them through plastic tubing to protect them or is that not needed?
7. I have also thought of restoring selling moving up restoring selling moving up to get to what I want. Has anyone had luck doing this??

Whew! A lot of questions...............Only a million more to come!! Any and all advice would be recommended. Please take into account the wind here. 15 MPH is kinda normal 30 not unusual.
 
I would suggest a 14-16 ft boat with a 20 inch transom setup to go with a long shaft motor in windy areas, I like vee boats but semi vees are nice too. Lund is good, many others are too. With a $1000 budget, you can't get too picky yet you should be able to find a solid boat and trailer to "project", maybe even a motor to go with it. Running wiring thru plastic tubing is ok. Also use tinned copper wiring to prevent corrosion. Basically use marine grade wiring and build in plenty of amperage capacity for your equipment.
Take pictures.
Tim
 
MO WIDER = MO BETTA = MO SAFER

I also have the same budget and found this one in my Orlando C/L over the weekend.
I have emailed and called his phone but no answer yet.
Hopefully, he is just out of town for the weekend because I REALLY want this one !!!
according to his ad: 1648 Landau All Purpose Aluminum Boat with Trailer. Front Deck, Back Deck,
Side Console Steering, Live Well, Bench Seat with Storage, Trolling Motor. Outboard Motor Needs Some Work -
Will Make A Very Nice Boat. . $975.00
RATS !! The seller just called me, he sold it Saturday for $800.00. Just goes to show you, there are good deals out there.
 

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If in an area with a lot of wind I would skip the steering console. FWIW I have an old mid-80s ProCraft 14' v-skiff, very similar to a Smoker Craft, who know owns Starcraft. While a deep-gunneled boat, it has the cut-out transom and wears a short-shaft. I sure wish it were the long-shaft!

I rigged a small steering console on her and it the wind, the wind can whip that bow around mush faster than the steering wheel can respond. I'd much rather have an OB I can QUICKLY direct myself, even if it meant I needed to run in reverse ... which is another reason why I'd opt for the 20" transom.
 
Question #5
Any bare aluminum areas will need a light coat of self-etching primer, then primer and Rustoleum works well if your not going to keep your boat in the water all boating season.
 
Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help.

One more question. How is the proper way to measure a transom? Just from the top to bottom at highest point or where the motor sets??
 
Artjr said:
Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help.

One more question. How is the proper way to measure a transom? Just from the top to bottom at highest point or where the motor sets??

Top to bottom where the motor sits
Tim
 
What lakes will you be fishing Art? Does make a difference here in KS. I started out buying,fixing up,and selling boats to get into something I wanted. Fished smaller lakes in a 16 V-lund/48 Johnson. Did alright on Marion and Kannapolis,if you anchor or hold into the waves with a trolling motor. For drifting a modified V jon boat like an older 17' bass tracker is more stable. A narrow beam short V will rock you to sleep drifting,but better for nosing into the waves and heading back to the ramp. Neither are big enough for Milford on anything but 5-10 mph sustained winds. 10-15mph fishing on the smaller lakes,but will get you back in 20 mph.

I got up into a 19' deep-v center console Lowe/115 which worked ok on Milford,and would handle about any windy day on the smaller lakes. I've seen the wide beam 18'ers like the express do well on Milford,but consider that about minimum for getting caught out on that lake. Then moved up into the 22' bays for staying out on any day. Now have a 25' tritoon I built for fishing these rough lakes. Still have the 17' tracker/50 hp that I really don't use anymore.

The toons are really taking a strong hold on KS lakes now. Something you might look into.They're easy to rebuild. Like a big erector set. A 20' will handle a lot,very stable,easy to fish off of,and don't take much hp. Need a 1/2 ton to pull one though.
 

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