3m 5200 how to use?

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whitetailhntr

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When using the 5200 to seal up The bolt holes for my new transom how should I use it? Do I fill the hole with 5200 before I push the bolt through? Or do I just cover the top of the bolt when finished? Anyone have any pics?
 
I have a much better idea! If any wood in that transom, drill the hole at least an 1/8" OVERsize for the fastener and drill thru. Then:

-Cover the lowest end w/ duct tape.

-Coat out and seal the wood w/ std epoxy

-Once 'kicked' (tacky) fill w/ thickened epoxy

-Drill thru for fastener body when fully cured

-Always save your mixing cups/application tools, to verify your epoxy had a full and complete cure/bond

FWIW the BEST BUY in epoxy is that from Raka epoxy, https://www.raka.com . Buy their $18 epoxy sample kit and get some epoxy w/ various hardeners (fast/slow) and fillers. Just a few bucks for postage and you'll get it in 2-3 days! This kit has ALL the DIY'r needs to use to effect small repairs.

In regards to sealants, I only use 3M 5200 below the waterline. If using my epoxy trick above, and above the waterline, I prefer LifeCaulk by BoatLife. It is cheaper than 5200, almost as tenacious, but the tube last YEARS - where an improperly closed tube of 5200 last months.

TIP - when using 5200, squeeze what you will use out onto a piece of plastic scrap and close/cap the tube WITHOUT letting any goop get exposed to air and get sucked back into the tube. This stuff starts to cure when exposed to air and is why the top of the tubes get all hard.

I will still use it only below the waterline, like for a seacock or water inlet scoop installation. Otherwise I like BoatLife's products much better!
 
I don't understand "-Cover the lowest end w/ duct tape." Also why would the epoxy need to be added once tacky
 
Lowest End:
Curing epoxy will flow, so for best results, one end should be appreciably higher than the other end. Taping off the low end w/duct tape forms a seal.

2nd coat once tacky:
Some epoxies form an amine blush on the surface whilst curing and that blush MUST be removed prior to adding a 2nd coat. Doing so allows the 2 coats to chemically bond to each other as if they were in fact, one thicker coat. However, one can add a 2nd coat of Raka epoxy to a tacky 1st coat.

But as w/ other finishing methods (epoxy, LPUs, varnishes, paints, etc.) ... multiple thinner coats are stronger and will last longer.
 
Yes, fill the hole!
The guys at BobMachineShop taught me a trick to keep the sticky, icky off the threads of the bolt....
(It will want to pick some up as it goes though...)

Spray the bolts w/ oil based spray before pushing it through.... It will clean off super easy!
 
With the 5200 use is a little at a time - it is tough stuff and can get really messy really fast


A little dab will do you
 
Drill the bolt holes a bit oversize and fill the hole with 5200, use a pencil or something to spread the 5200 all around the outer edge of the hole evenly. Tape up the threaded end of the bolt so the 5200 doesn't cover the threads, push the bolt thru, but before you seat the bolt, put a ring of 5200 around the washer then seat the bolt, remove the tape and tighten it down. I think I read where to not tighten the bolt down all the way at first, the 5200 needs to cure a bit 1st, then when cured (7 days) finish it off. google it and you'll get several different/similar hits on using the stuff.
 
whitetailhntr said:
Will zinc washers hurt the aluminum?
Most likely they are zinc coated steel and should be avoided. Get Stainless steel or aluminum ones.
 
Never use any SS in direct contact w/ aluminum; you will get galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals. One can simply insulate the SS from the aluminum by putting nylon washers under the heads or nuts if the fastener, or heatshrink over the bolt body, or by applying a special grease like Tef-Gel.

This effect of galvanic corrosion is greatly increased on boats used in brackish or salt waters.
 
DaleH said:
Never use any SS in direct contact w/ aluminum; you will get galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals. One can simply insulate the SS from the aluminum by putting nylon washers under the heads or nuts if the fastener, or heatshrink over the bolt body, or by applying a special grease like Tef-Gel.

This effect of galvanic corrosion is greatly increased on boats used in brackish or salt waters.

Good advice
 

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