Things to check before buying a boat

Hi guys
I never boat a boat before (except a new canoe...) so I don't really know what to check before buying an aluminium boat. From what I read so far here I am planning to check for:
- weak/rotten transom
- obvious cracks on the hull
- leaky rivets
- holes in the hull

However I don't really know how to check those things...
How do you check for leaks if the boat has floorring or if the seller does not want to fill the bottom of the boat with water?
How do you know if the transom is in bad shape if it is enclosed in aluminium? Is trying to wobble it by hand informative enough to tell if it is in good shape or not?
Is there anything else to check before buying the boat?
These days everything is frozen where I live so testing the boat will be challenging... Can I trust an outboard by just starting it in a big trashcan full of water and seeing that it starts first or second pull?
Sorry for all those naive questions... This is the first time I want to buy a boat and have no clue what to check. I guess that if the boat is cheap and in rough shape I don't have much to check and will probably have to fix everything and if the boat is in perfect shape it will be fine, but I am wondering all these questions for boats in average/medium shape (which will probably be most of the ones I am going to see...)
Thanks in advance for your advices!
Damien

If at all possible insist on a test ride. If it's refused the seller may be trying to hide a defect.
Look the bottom over good especially towards the rear of the boat.
If you can't go for a test ride you can run a motor in a drum or on muffs but make sure to tell the seller you want to see a cold start & make sure it shifts through the gears smoothly without loud clunking noises or grinding.
Ask about the motors service history. Ask if it's ever let the person stranded.

I know there a bunch of more knowledgable guys on here but the above basics have helped me buy 2 reliable tins

I think a lot will depend on how much you are paying for the boat and etceteras.

If you are buying a combo for 600 bucks or something I am doubtful you will be getting a test ride. the best you can do is to check it over real well and be prepared to do some work.

A motor should be able to be started in a trashcan or similar. If this is not done it's value is that of a dead core because we all know they ran great the last time they were used, sure. You can also tell a lot about the experience of the owner and how they probably treated/maintained the motor when they start it up.

So, what are you looking at getting? A nice, requires some work couple hundred dollar gem? Or perhaps one of them there mortgage boats?

aside from the above posts - - - make sure all the papers are in order.

My friend bought a boat last weekend from C/L and after he got it home,
found out the HIN did not match the title !!!
He immediately took it back to the seller asking for a full refund.
after some hee-hawing around, threatening to call the cops, etc,
the seller gave my friend back all his money. LESSON LEARNED !!

Checking account

It mainly depends on what type of boat your looking for. But the basics are pretty simple. Leaky rivets, its just a simple check to make sure everything is tight, crawl under the boat & look for sheared off rivet heads too. Loose or sheared off rivets are not a deal breaker if everything else is sound just a negotiating point for a lower price, there's lots of info here on how to fix/repair this yourself. While your doing that look for cracks, broken welds & holes, these will most likely have to be welded to be fixed correctly. The transom, how you test it mainly depends on how it was put in & what type, size & style of boat your looking at. On small boats generally you can see the wood to tell if its weak/rotten or not, if it is then its a decision on whether or not you feel like its worth the work for the price to buy the boat. On larger boats with the motor bolted on generally you can put some body weight on the motor to see if the transom flexes or not. If it does flex it will probably need to come out soon. Make sure the paperwork is in order & know what type of paperwork you need to get, This information according to where you live can be obtained from the DMV/DPS, Courthouse, fisheries & wildlife etc... The motor, here is a link to a video that pretty much shows the basics on what to look for & how to test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88RNlB-snao & it saves me some typing :mrgreen: . Remember don't be in a rush to buy a boat look things over carefully & at any point in time you don't feel comfortable about it just don't buy & go to look at the next one.
Good Luck & welcome to TinBoats :WELCOME:

SumDumGuy said:

I think a lot will depend on how much you are paying for the boat and etceteras.

If you are buying a combo for 600 bucks or something I am doubtful you will be getting a test ride. the best you can do is to check it over real well and be prepared to do some work.

A motor should be able to be started in a trashcan or similar. If this is not done it's value is that of a dead core because we all know they ran great the last time they were used, sure. You can also tell a lot about the experience of the owner and how they probably treated/maintained the motor when they start it up.

So, what are you looking at getting? A nice, requires some work couple hundred dollar gem? Or perhaps one of them there mortgage boats?

Click to expand...

Thanks! I am looking for something in the $1500-$2000 zone for boat + trailer + outboard (14ft deep V). I wish I could find some old ones to fix in the $600-800 range but there is nothing like that close-by...
How much is the value of a dead core if I cannot test it when I buy the boat? (10-20hp)

Barefoot_Johnny said:

aside from the above posts - - - make sure all the papers are in order.

My friend bought a boat last weekend from C/L and after he got it home,
found out the HIN did not match the title !!!
He immediately took it back to the seller asking for a full refund.
after some hee-hawing around, threatening to call the cops, etc,
the seller gave my friend back all his money. LESSON LEARNED !!

Click to expand...

Yes, I am kind of afraid of this type of things... I contacted guys who told me they either don't have the title because they don't need it for old boats or they have all papers to show that it is not stolen but no title... I don't really know how much of it is true. Besides title what paperwork can prove that the boat is ok and not stolen?
Some also told me that the HIN is not visible anymore on the hull, what do you do in this case? Walk away?

My friend that bought the fraudulent boat last month is my age. (mid 60s).
People in our age group come from the "Old School" of trusting your neighbor.
Sadly, tis is not the case anymore !!!! In this modern day of drugs, theft,
and people robbing private homes and churches and gas stations for a few dollars
is beyond belief !!!!
I myself bought a really nice tin 1648 bass boat a few months and did not compare the
HIN to the title, nor did I ask to see the sellers drivers license to see if it was actually HIS boat
that was being sold. I just went with my gut of his honesty.
LOL after my friend got bit, I went out to check my HIN against the title.
Whew - it matched LOL....... but that is Old School.
In today's world, if you are buying ANYTHING of value, I think it would be best to protect yourself
from any future repercussions or problems. If a lot of money is involved, like for a truck, car, boat,
etc. It might be in your best interest to get a copy of his drivers license or something.

You, the buyer, must assume the responsibility to ensure everything is in order. If you feel uncomfortable
with the seller that there is something amiss, WALK AWAY !!!
In FLORIDA, our laws for getting old boats registered is pretty lax, as I just discovered. (as well as Clint)
It depends on YOUR state as to what papers you need to get something registered.

Now, to your question - - - If the HIN is not visible anymore on the hull, what do you do in this case? Walk away?
If you really like the boat, and it is a good price, I would say "no" ....
BUT - go do your homework, see if you can get papers for an old boat without a HIN or papers.
Then, go back to the seller and start to haggle over the price - using the issue of "no HIN" and "no papers"
as leverage.
Also, do your homework FIRST - contact your "powers to be" that controls boat registrations in your state and go from there.

Compression test.
"Bounce" the motor while tilted up. If the transom is solid, it won't move much.
On a fiberglass boat I stand on the back of the motor and see if I can get it to "flex" if it moves easily, there's a problem. If not its good.
As a last resort, you can take a small tool set with you and remove a bolt in the transom and inspect the wood there. Get permission first and bring silicone to seal it back. Even if you don't plan on buying it, but especially if you do.

Look for stains.
Look for corrosion everywhere and any stains that may have washed in a particular direction. Might indicate a leak.

In this age of camera phones insist on taking a photo of the sellers drivers license !!!

Easy way out of some of the problems is buy an all welded boat with an aluminum transom. You should know something about motors because you will have to work on it or pay someone 100 bucks an hour to do your maintenance. Compression test and check the lower unit oil for water. Water there is bad.
Running motor with muffs or barrel will tell the motor runs but won't tell you if the motor runs well.
The other comments above are also good.
Buy the best you can afford.

thanks for all your advice guys!