New Member, New to me Boat, Transom Question

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The Rezerend

Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2015
Messages
10
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Location
Butte, MT
Hello all, I've been reading for a while and finally decided to register. So I just bought my own first aluminum boat. I have an old tri hull currently and decided it was time for something that could handle the bigger water. So I ended up with this
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It is titled as a 1964. Not sure of the make but after some research I think its a Lone Star and actually a 50 something.
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It's 18 feet long with a 68 inch beam. Any help to the make and model would be great.
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I was told it had a 90 horse V4 on it and I would like to put our 85 horse V4 on it. I'm just a little leery about the current transom setup.
10421379_614590440163_5890155855492065842_n.jpg

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A few more pics of the transom, splash well, and knee brace.
11046487_614589806433_8833808985293973731_n.jpg

10384743_614589811423_357260546337001514_n.jpg

10421379_614590440163_5890155855492065842_n.jpg

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10172871_614589701643_990432494869398046_n.jpg

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I've searched a bunch and haven't found any information about a transom like this on a boat this large or as large of motor. So I'll at least be replacing the wood with newer, glassed wood before I install the CMC and our 85 horse. The insurance calculations for the motor size allows me up to a 115, which dependent on how the 85 performs may be in the future. All this is if it will be safe and the transom could support it. I will also be installing a transom saver on the trailer once the motor gets put on. Any input or help would be great. The main purpose of this boat will be lake fishing. If it floats high enough I may take it out on the Missouri but that would be a bonus not a design criteria.
 
:WELCOME: Glad you have decided to join in!

Cool old boat! =D>

As I looked at your pics, I am not sure this is a Lone Star. It doesn't have several characteristics of the Lone Star, but I could be wrong. Facing the back of the boat, look on the left side, just under the rail. You will have to bend down a bit to see. If it is a Lone Star, you will find a serial number stamped into the aluminum. That serial number will tell you a lot.

How long is it? Wide? Is the transom wood beginning to come apart?

edit: I see some sort of number on the knee brace. What is it? I can't make it out.
also: the wood looks like it is coming apart at the corners, but what I'm asking about is the middle.
BIG EDIT: Duh!?!! This boat has registration numbers. Look on the title to see what it is.

Looking forward to your reply,
Keith
Texas
 
Remove the plywood from the outside of the transom then see what it's going to take to remove the actual transom
 
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
Remove the plywood from the outside of the transom then see what it's going to take to remove the actual transom

I saw that too. Why would anybody just bolt on plywood to the outside?? Quick fix, maybe??
 
Thanks, I was thinking it was a Lone star due to the sliding walk through windshield (someone cut the top rail and and lost the window) and the style of splash well. I will be be peeling off both pieces of wood off here soon. It looks like inside board is correct since there's a slot for it behind the splashwell braces. As for the transom it self, in the one close up shot you can see it is just the aluminum, nothing to take out other than the two pieces of wood, not sure how I would rebuild this other than putting new wood on. It has a vin, but I'm not sure it wasn't just stamped on since it starts with MTZ and the listed Make is ACB and the model is ZZZ. The number on the knee brace is Q18 1284, I haven't been able to find any other numbers or name on this boat. If anyone needs better pictures to help me figure this out just ask and I'll get it posted.
 
The Rezerend said:
Ya, that's what I was thinking, and since this is obviously not homemade, I'm curious as to what it is.
I've found a boat very similar to yours on CL.
Go to the Chicago Illinois CL boat section and search for "Alumacraft Queen Merrie"
 
[/quote]
I've found a boat very similar to yours on CL.
Go to the Chicago Illinois CL boat section and search for "Alumacraft Queen Merrie"[/quote]

that is very similar except for the windshield and sliding opening on the front. Transom looks real close to the same. It would be nice to know where that id tag was.
edit, Looking closer on my computer as opposed to phone, the one plate is for the motor and the other plates are on the wood. Eh I think I'll put two 3/4 on the back and the 3/4 on the front for a total of 2 1/4 plus the aluminum. That should be plenty for the 85 v4 evinrude on a cmc.
 
There's a Alumacraft owners group on www.Iboats.com
Get the number from the knee brace and call Alumacraft. The number is 877-314-7756.
 
So some quick research and its lookin alot like a Alumacraft 18ft Queen Merrie. Follows that number on the knee brace "Q18" I sent an email to Alumacraft to see if they know what year for sure it is.

Edit:
Quick response back from Alumacraft. Its's a 1963 18 Queen Merrie. Below is the page from the brochure they sent me.
10985967_615107538893_2345101213990598719_o.jpg


Which brings me to my next question, trying to figure out what kind of boat the windshield and sliding front opening came from.

This one was advertised as an 1964 Queen Merrie. Maybe a 63 hull that didn't roll off the showroom until 64??
fetch
 
I see you already got the answer, but I knew that smelled like vintage alumacraft to me!

Should be a fun build, similar to my deep C, but obviously bigger. I'll be keeping an eye on this if you fix it up and post a thread!

As for the transom, it's called the 'Aqueduct Transom'. I pulled mine all apart and replaced it. Best to just do it and be done. It wasn't too hard once you get all those rivets drilled out and the knee braces pulled.

If you haven't found it yet, Fiberglassics has an awesome library with a bunch of old brochures that should have specs for your rig and help answer some questions.
 
Ya I will be replacing all the wood on the transom, but after looking at your build thread our transoms are just a little different. I don't believe I will have to remove any rivets. This wood is not factory and all the rivets look the same so I doubt they removed any the last time. I will post pictures as I tear into it which should be soon (the garage is almost cleaned and organized). I hope to be swapping motors around in May.
 
Glad you got your answer! =D> I knew it wasn't a Lone Star, but I had no idea what it was. Thanks for keeping up with the thread and posting the pics.

Please do keep us posted on your progress. It's always a pleasure to see an old gal get a face lift and a spring in her step. :)

Congrats again on your find! She's a Beauty!

Respectfully,
Keith
Texas
 
For whatever reason, the plywood on the outside is how they did it. I think it's kind of trashy looking myself. The plywood always greys, no matter how well varnished or glassed you get it. Clamping a motor to it damages the clear coat, so does bolting the motor. And having the plywood on the outside does nothing for strengthening the back of the boat. But because of how the splashwells are in those boats, it's difficult to bulk it up from the inside. It can be done but you have to drill out a bunch of rivets, remove the splash well or tray or whatever you want to call it. But then, that dang cast aluminum brace that holds up the tray and attaches to the bottom of the boat is a real ******* to get out with all those solid rivets holding it in place. IF you want your new wood to go deeper.

IF it were me, I'd get a large piece of 1/4" aluminum plate, cut it almost the same shape as the existing outside plywood, but have it come up about 6 inches above the transom, following the contour of the "drop-transom" cut-out, butting up against that curved u-channel that trims out the transom opening. Of course, also replace the wood on the inside of the transom as well. And use solid aluminum rivets. It will look way nicer than cheap plywood on the outside.
 
So life has been crazy and I finally got back to working on the transom. I got the small inner board and bigger outside board off. The aluminum looks pretty good with very little pitting. Maybe because they put rubber between the wood and aluminum. I'll take some pictures tomorrow cuz its kinda dark. I will have to make the outside board a little larger to fully catch the CMC. So just a few questions, why would two boards on the outside not help strengthen it? I would think that another board, securely glued and fastened would help distribute the force over the entire transom as opposed to just the center. Second, should I do the rubber thing again? And, lastly what would be the best to clean up the stuck on rubber and minor pitting? I think that's about it for now. Thanks for all the help so far.
 

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