Rivet ??'s

Going to have to replace my transom on my Lowe 1440M flat boat. Had it out today playing with props and I noticed that it was flexing really bad. Got it home and started to poke the wood with a philips screwdriver and I could push it into just about everywhere.

So, I got this boat and a nice trailer for a really quick song. I am going to need to get some rivets as I am going to have to take a little more apart on this one compared to other flat boats I have done. This one has the pods on the inside connecting to the rear bench seat. There are a few corner braces that I am going to have to drill out the rivets. And there are a bunch that go all the way throught the transom. My ? is What size or diameter do I need to order and where.

tomme boy said:

Going to have to replace my transom on my Lowe 1440M flat boat. Had it out today playing with props and I noticed that it was flexing really bad. Got it home and started to poke the wood with a philips screwdriver and I could push it into just about everywhere.

So, I got this boat and a nice trailer for a really quick song. I am going to need to get some rivets as I am going to have to take a little more apart on this one compared to other flat boats I have done. This one has the pods on the inside connecting to the rear bench seat. There are a few corner braces that I am going to have to drill out the rivets. And there are a bunch that go all the way throught the transom. My ? is What size or diameter do I need to order and where.

Click to expand...

There is a recent thread about rivets on here. Go to it and it will tell you a lot.
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=36925&p=376669#p376353
OR just look on the board for "Confused on Rivets" posted on Feb 21st.

Hope this helps.
Keith
Tyler, Texas

For all the braces and supports you should use solid rivets. You should be able to match the head with what is already on your boat. Most seem to be brazier head that I've seen. For the diameter just measure the hole that the old ones come out of. I'd also suggest you get some in the next size up because if you ding up the hole removing the old ones you can just drill it out to the next size up and use your larger rivets. For length you need to measure the thickness of the two materials you are riveting and then add some to it. Not sure what the recommended additional length is, but say you have 1/4" with both materials. You don't want 1/4" rivets because you'll have nothing to "buck" on the other end. Something like 1/2" or longer will give you material on the other end to work with. I'd recommend stainless bolts, washers and nyloc nuts with a little 3M 5200 on the bolts for everything through your transom.

I go all my rivets for my boat here: https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/solid-steel-rivets/solid-aluminum-1100f-alloy.html

Going to be using the solid rivets for most of the work I need to do. Normally I use a chisel and a punch to remove the old rivets.

In the past, I always used bolts to replace the ones that went through the wood of the transom. Has anyone put rivets back in the transom?

Can you post some pictures?

Of what? The rivets go through the transom from the outside through the wood and are flattened on the inside. The transom is 1.5" thick, so they have to be longer than that.

^^^
Those aren't rivets going through an 1 1/2" transom!

Skiffing said:

^^^
Those aren't rivets going through an 1 1/2" transom!

Click to expand...

I don't like the idea of rivets through a transom myself, but it can certainly be done. The link I referenced sells solid, aluminum rivets in body lengths up to 2".

Personally, I use galvanized (hot dipped gray) carriage bolts or round head brass bolts through the transom.
A 5200 little on the back of the head and tighten down. take the 4" cut-off wheel and
dress up the nuts on the inside. A finger touch of primer on the bare metal.
Of course you can use brass, bronze or stainless - it is YOUR boat, do it YOUR way.

Jus my dos centavos

BigTerp said:

Skiffing said:

^^^
Those aren't rivets going through an 1 1/2" transom!

Click to expand...

I don't like the idea of rivets through a transom myself, but it can certainly be done. The link I referenced sells solid, aluminum rivets in body lengths up to 2".

Click to expand...

I never thought Dreadnought rivets were still being made ..................

I learned another new thing here.

Not to hijack - but what the heck are they used for in new manufacture?

Yes they are going through the transom wood. Doesn't matter. I cut them off. I got some stainless button head bolts to replace them.

Skiffing said:

BigTerp said:

Skiffing said:

^^^
Those aren't rivets going through an 1 1/2" transom!

Click to expand...

I don't like the idea of rivets through a transom myself, but it can certainly be done. The link I referenced sells solid, aluminum rivets in body lengths up to 2".

Click to expand...

I never thought Dreadnought rivets were still being made ..................

I learned another new thing here.

Not to hijack - but what the heck are they used for in new manufacture?

Click to expand...

No idea. But for something with that thickness I would think nuts and bolts would be a much better option.

tomme boy said:

Yes they are going through the transom wood. Doesn't matter. I cut them off. I got some stainless button head bolts to replace them.

Click to expand...

I think this is the way to go. I used stainless nuts, washers and nyloc nuts through my transom wood and solid rivets for all the braces and supports. Solid as a rock!!