Homemade Shallow - medium depth anchor?

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Stump Bumper

Active member
Joined
Mar 9, 2015
Messages
27
Reaction score
0
I know this topic has been covered many times, but I just wanted to share my idea/build. I plan to used 3m 5200 instead of PVC cement so that it will hold up to some brackish/salt water use. I will also be using some 1/2" stainless steel screws to secure the dowel rods inside the pvc piping and cover the penetration and screw with 5200. As far as the spear end of the anchor, I plan to completely cover the pvc/dowel rod with 5200 (possibly multiple coats) then sand it to a smooth surface with a tapered end. I will also cover all exposed dowel rods inside the fittings with 5200. Once constructed, I will be able to use the T handle with the 4"pvc, 6" pvc and female fitting with either the 6' section alone or the 6' plus the 3'-6" section for deeper water. I'm making two so that I will not pivot or spin in the current. I plan to install two 6" cleats, one at the front of the boat and one at the back. Then using the 2" welded O ring and some rope looped thru the middle of the cleat, I can slide the anchor down inside the O ring and the boat will bob freely. The 1" pvc pipe hangers will be mounted to the side wall of my boat above or below my rod hoders. I will probably keep the 3'-6" sections in my storage box. Please let me know if any of you see any future (or instant) problems I may run into.

anchor%20pole_zpsox1ximu2.jpg


16f06abf-b2ad-429e-aa3a-f2d2abb0cb74_zps3uzi4byk.jpg
 
I know this topic has been covered many times, but I just wanted to share my idea/build. I plan to used 3m 5200 instead of PVC cement so that it will hold up to some brackish/salt water use. I will also be using some 1/2" stainless steel screws to secure the dowel rods inside the pvc piping and cover the penetration and screw with 5200. As far as the spear end of the anchor, I plan to completely cover the pvc/dowel rod with 5200 (possibly multiple coats) then sand it to a smooth surface with a tapered end. I will also cover all exposed dowel rods inside the fittings with 5200. Once constructed, I will be able to use the T handle with the 4"pvc, 6" pvc and female fitting with either the 6' section alone or the 6' plus the 3'-6" section for deeper water. I'm making two so that I will not pivot or spin in the current. I plan to install two 6" cleats, one at the front of the boat and one at the back. Then using the 2" welded O ring and some rope looped thru the middle of the cleat, I can slide the anchor down inside the O ring and the boat will bob freely. The 1" pvc pipe hangers will be mounted to the side wall of my boat above or below my rod hoders. I will probably keep the 3'-6" sections in my storage box. Please let me know if any of you see any future (or instant) problems I may run into.


sounds like you have it all engineered out (in your mind)
I am a VISUAL person, it is very hard for me to decipher your intentions.
I would like to see pics of your finished project.


and, how do you sand down 5200??? and WHY ?
Have you ever covered anything in 5200 before ? or only think it is a good idea.
Why not use polyester resin (fiberglass) and brush it on. It will seep into the wood pores.
AND, why do you think that PVC cement does not hold up to salt water ? (pretty sure it holds up just fine)
Does the tapered end of the wood dowel stick touch the bottom of the river or lake ?
if so, I think what ever you coat the dowel with will wear off within minutes from abrasion in the sand and rocks.

I work with PVC quite a bit in all kinds of projects. I think that you don't fully understand the rigidity of it.
for a trial experiment, take a 10' piece of PVC pipe with the wood dowel inside it like you describe in your notes
and bend it with the force that you think you will encounter with the wind and current in your fishing situations.
Take notes and make adjustments accordingly before spending too much time, effort and money into something
that might not perform up to your expectations.

keep us up to date.
 
Also keep in mind a 3/4" O.D. dowel may or may not fit into a 3/4" I.D. PVC section. Dowels vary quite a bit from their rated size (at least in my experience), as do brands of PVC to a lesser extent. Also, you might want to get oak dowels (or another hardwood), as the standard "whitewood" dowels will not have a lot of strength.

I made a 8' anchor from PVC fittings and a stick of 3/4" galvanized conduit, and haven't had any issues with is so far, but have not had a chance to use it extensively. I simply crushed the open end of the conduit to a point and attached the PVC T handle to the other end. The thing I do not know about this is how much it will take to bend it though =P~

So far, I have been using my closet-rod dowel ones I have made (1 3/8" O.D.) and those are definitely strong enough. I sharpened the penetrating end and coated it with epoxy. Not much sign of wear yet. (No rocky bottoms where I have used them though. That's why I made the conduit one...cheap and easily replaceable.)

All things considered as far as time, money, and longevity, I think next time I would go with the anchor pole "kits" where you can buy the fiberglass dowels and extraneous parts and make your own. (The woods ones Do float, though! #-o :D )
 
I think your issue is going to be the PVC couplings - they're just not that strong. I have the male/female threaded couplings on 1.5" pipe that I have stacked in the backyard to connect to the sump-pump when the water table comes up under our basement and pipe it back out to the river behind the house. I have to replace at least a pair every time because they crack under the torque of a 10' piece of PVC attached to them, I can't imagine tying a boat to the bottom with one for very long...

If your dowel extends through the threaded fittings into the adjacent section of pipe that might help take load off the threaded couplings, but it will expose the wooden dowel to the water unless you seal it. 5200 is not epoxy - so I'm not certain of how well it will bond to PVC (which can be picky over which adhesives it will bond with)

if you're looking to customize something perhaps you might consider this:

https://www.mgs4u.com/shallow-water-boat-anchors.htm

Solid fiberglass rods, stainless couplings, stainless spike (which you might want for your design if you want to stick with the 3/4" pvc) and a polycarbonate T handle

material cost will be a bit more than what you were planning, but for ease of construction and the extra strength I'd say it would be well worth it. Then all you need to do is make your welded o-ring/looped rope setup and dangle it from a cleat as you were planning.

or you can get fancy and make up something like this

ugirRMt.jpg

https://www.go2marine.com/product/388751F/panther-king-pin-shallow-water-anchor-system-bow-mount-bracket.html

or order one of these:

7wZoQsw.jpg

https://www.stickitanchorpins.com/brake.html
 
Obviously - i've been looking into something similar too for a while now...though after throwing up my post i found this bracket design which is what I'm ultimately going to duplicate as it keeps the front of my deck clear.

v6IcCJZ.jpg
 
went out this morning for a little bass fishing and the wind came out of nowhere.
(we are having a cold front pass through and temps may plummet down to 82*) and gusty.
The old trolling motor that came with my boat died so I tossed out the 8# anchor
which was a joke. (will be changing THAT out today).

So, in my mind, I went over this post idea. My FF said it was 25' deep. So the post anchor
idea is out. I very rarely fish in less than 10' of water. I troll out in the 8-10' areas
and cast into the weeds or along the lily pads .

The leverage force of pressure applied to a ten foot pole at the anchor point on the boat has got to be
phenomenal !!! I could not even begin to guess how much lateral force it would take to snap
off the part that anchors your post anchor to the boat.
Just off the cuff guess - would be less than 10 pounds of force.
In my mind, it is not the strength of the anchoring pole, it is the stress factor at the connection
point on your hull. In a quick 15 knot gust of wind, something will give..............................

Jus my dos centavos
 
I think the stress at the mounting point is why all the pre-fab designs I've found (4 in all) all use solid fiberglass rod - none of them are hollow tube, and none are in plastic.
 
Welp, I finally got a chance to try out my anchors today. Worked great. Took the wife and boy out for some July 4th fun and parked at a river island. The wind was kicking today with gust at about 20mph and the boat didn't budge. The anchors stuck right into the sandy bottom about 12+ inches. Some of the paint did rub off but no big deal. Didn't have to worry about putting a muddy anchor/chain/rope back into the boat or anyone tripping over anything. Should work great if I want to anchor up when fishing.

0704151241_resized_zpskr80rjaq.jpg


0704151241a_resized_zpsnfzd4jgy.jpg
 
Stump : I basically did the same exact thing as you. Went ahead and ordered a fiber glass rod on Amazon and sharpened one end and put a PVC T on the other and attached it to the boat the same as you.

Works amazingly. I only use it when in certain feet otherwise I'll head to a spot I can and drop it down. Holds great in strong wind etc. I probably can use it up to 7ft as the pole is 8ft so I can get it down enough.
 

Latest posts

Top