Hull & Transom Skin Repair

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adelmo
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Hull & Transom Skin Repair

Post by adelmo »

Need help on repair work for new project boat that po had sandblasted. The hull is dented has repair patch with daylight interior visible. Transom skin has numerous size holes and pitting. Transom otherwise appears solid. Any and all comments welcome.
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DaleH
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Hull & Transom Skin Repair

Post by DaleH »

Looking forward to replies on this, as my 16' 1997 Starcraft transom looks similar. It is structurally sound :) (right now) , but alas looks similar :( .

Starcraft didn't say or admit it was caused by the preservative used on the wood in the transom and others on-site here who know more about Starcrafts than I do say it wasn't it either, but more so that the transom wasn't sealed well. And where my boat was moored in saltwater, the pin holes in the transom were caused by water that got trapped in-between the skin and the wood.

There could be something to that, as I show no other damage at all anywhere on the hull ...

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Johnny
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Hull & Transom Skin Repair

Post by Johnny »

yep - that's bad. (the transom)

do some reading about POR-15 products. https://www.por15.com/

I have used it in the restoration of old cars and it is
AWESOME. A moisture cured urethane epoxy that
grabs like a barracuda and will never let go !!!

Just an option - am sure you will hear from dozens of fixes that are also good.
Just do your homework and you decide what is best for your application.

If you get it on your skin, it will have to wear off !!
LOL after it dries, it is there until the cows come home.
https://www.tinboats.net/how-to-build-a-transom/
https://www.tinboats.net/varnish-vs-polyurethane/
All about Primers = https://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
Paint, Thinners and Applications = https://www.paintingforpainters.com/

1959 Crestliner Commodore 14'
1958 Johnson 35 RDE-19 Sea Horse
1958 Johnson 35 RDS-20 Super Sea Horse

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DaleH
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Hull & Transom Skin Repair

Post by DaleH »

Barefoot_Johnny wrote:yep - that's bad. (the transom)

do some reading about POR-15 products. https://www.por15.com/.
Was that their EPOXY PUTTY you used and recommend?

Link = https://www.por15.com/mobile/EPOXY-PUTTY_p_54.html

adelmo
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Hull & Transom Skin Repair

Post by adelmo »

I really like the epoxy putty version especially since you don't have scrape it off your hands.

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Johnny
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Hull & Transom Skin Repair

Post by Johnny »

Edited several times to ensure accurate information is posted


not the putty - the paint.

The paint adheres to bare metal like a wolverine on a dead skunk.

The POR-15 paint will flow into the cracks, crevices, pits and holes to seal them
forEVER against further corrosion.

The POR-15 TopCoat is UV stable. But, I suggest after applying the POR-15 paint,
allow it to fully "cure" for 24 hours. Then, abrade it with a green scotchbrite pad or sandpaper
and paint with a UV stable topcoat primer and paint, such as Rust-Oleum, etc.
Whatever you decide to paint your boat with .....
this paint is ROCK HARD after it cures.
You can use the waterproof epoxy putty (like JB Weld, etc) to fill the larger holes prior to painting with POR-15.
Any pin holes WILL leak a bit, so, they should be covered on the outside with masking tape.

The easiest way to do the transom is to stand the boat up on its backside and get the transom level.
Probably up beside your house or a tree, and tie it up securely.
Even if you get this paint to puddle 1/8 - 1/4" in places, IT WILL CURE ROCK SOLID HARD !!!
It "cures" from moisture in the air - it does not "dry" from solvent evaporation.
This urethane epoxy "paint" is nothing like you have ever seen before - - - - unless you have actually used it.
It is not a Polyester Resin, it is not a two part epoxy.... Although it is pricey, it will do the job.
(and no, I have NO interest in this company) I have used it several times and it does the job.
I will be doing some rusty metal work on my 1997 Dodge van where the drip edge in the back has rusted out.
I will be using this product, some fiberglass cloth and bondo to get the job done.

To use, estimate the area to be painted and only pour that amount into a separate can.
DO NOT pour any unused paint back into the original can !! Discard it.
If you leave the lid off the original can, or only partly closed, the entire contents of the POR-15
WILL CURE ROCK SOLID HARD. As will the brushes that you use.
Once the original can is opened, the shelf life kicks in. Once exposed to the air, just that small
amount of moisture starts the curing process inside the can. You have approximately 3 months
to use the remainder of the paint or it will turn ROCK SOLID HARD inside the can.

From the POR-15 website:
POR-15® Top Coat is a direct-to-metal coating designed to work incredibly
well in all applications where there is a need to preserve substrates susceptible to corrosion.
Under exposure to sunlight and weather POR-15® Top Coat has exceptional long-term gloss and color retention.
POR-15® Top Coat can be applied directly to metal substrates, with no need for a primer or undercoat,
and is formulated to form a robust barrier that sheds moisture to provide long lasting protection.
POR-15® Top Coat has excellent adhesion and when used over POR-15® RUST PREVENTIVE COATING
the products create a system that works to provide a permanent barrier to corrosion.


Jus my dos centavos
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by Johnny on 06 Apr 2015, 18:55, edited 3 times in total.
https://www.tinboats.net/how-to-build-a-transom/
https://www.tinboats.net/varnish-vs-polyurethane/
All about Primers = https://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/
Paint, Thinners and Applications = https://www.paintingforpainters.com/

1959 Crestliner Commodore 14'
1958 Johnson 35 RDE-19 Sea Horse
1958 Johnson 35 RDS-20 Super Sea Horse

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DaleH
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Hull & Transom Skin Repair

Post by DaleH »

Awesome info, thanks much :D !

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DaleH
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Hull & Transom Skin Repair

Post by DaleH »

FYI, info received from POR Products:

Subject: POR coatings for an aluminum boat transom

Customer
4/6/2015 4:12:53 PM Re: 1997 Starcraft 16' aluminum boat.
Inside the transom is 1.5" of wood that apparently wasn't sealed well. Saltwater migrated between the wood and the aluminum and I have some tiny pin holes in the outer aluminum skin. Starcraft assures me that this is due to saltwater reacting with the wood in an enclosed space and is not due to any chemical used to treat the wood with a preservative.

What coating would you advise I seal the pin holes with? It is my intent to grind out the holes to shallow depressions and fill with a thinned epoxy, but I'd also like to paint/seal the entire transom and rear splashwell area with the same product. Please advise, thank you!
Dale

Staff Reply
4/7/2015 10:07:42 AM
Dale, Make sure the area you would like to protect is down to bare metal. Properly, clean and prep the surface with our Cleaner Degreaser and Metal Prep. Each product is sprayed on individually, kept wet 10-15 minutes then rinsed thoroughly with water and allowed to dry. Once dry brush on 2 thin covering coats of POR-15.

To reinforce the metal area, apply some fiberglass over the POR-15 when the POR-15 becomes tacky then apply more POR-15 over the cloth. This will protect your surface. You may also use POR-15 over the wood. You will need to make sure the wood is perfectly dry. Apply thin covering coats of POR-15. Thanks, Mike

adelmo
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Joined: 30 Jul 2014, 10:13
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Hull & Transom Skin Repair

Post by adelmo »

Great info and thanks for sharing!