Bilge pump

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jd4x426

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Just picked up a 1448 G3 with a 40/28 outboard jet and want to install a bilge pump already have a 1250 gph pump. Question is how do you guys mount them I was thinking some 5200 silicone or an epoxy to hold it down or will the piping hold it since i will be hard piping it out the side. One other question I have is how far above the fenders should my boat be on trailer I launch in some shallow rivers so lower is better right now it's about an inch and half haven't had the chance to put it the water yet though just don't want to get hung up on the fenders. I'm guessing as long as it's not hitting now it shouldn't hit when loading and unloading.
 
Hard piping it out the side, your probably ok with that. Most have flexible piping, mine is fastened to a piece of aluminum sheet and that is fastened to a transom brace.
Tim
 
I just installed a second bilge pump on my 1648. My first pump (750gph) I glued down the strainer basket to the hull with 5200. Works fine that way, but is stuck right in the middle of the starboard side of my bilge leaving no room for anything else. I also have to reach down and unhook it from the basket if it gets clogged up with debris. I've also broke the "teeth" on the strainer basket and had to replace it because it is glued down. The second pump (1100gph) I did not glue down. This way I can move it around to make room for my anchor and spare gas can, which I store in my bilge area, without worrying about breaking it loose from the hull. Should also be easier to unplug debris when needed. Another suggestion is to get smooth bore vinyl hose for you bilge pumps. I used this for my new pump and replaced the old hose on my old pump. Helps to reduce friction and you get more pumping power than with the cheap ribbed plastic bilge pump hose. I ripped a 1" x 1/4" hole in my hull last summer. My 750gph couldn't keep up. Probably should have added a second bilge pump before now, but better late then never!!

Here is how my new one sits in the bilge.
IMG_20150406_194734_zps1q5gqsro.jpg


IMG_20150406_195041_zps2sj3azif.jpg


My boat just barely sits above the fenders when on the trailer. I'd guess no more than 1/4". Doesn't seem to get hung up on them when loading/unloading. Wanted it to sit low as possible because we use some pretty steep ramps into a shallow river. The lower it is the easier it loads/unloads.
 
May I ask what your reasoning is for having two pumps? I just have one 1100 GPH in my boat and its all I've ever needed.
 
I guess I never thought of it that way. I have a mechanical (hand pump) bilge pump for my boat. No wires, or batteries. Just good old fashioned elbow grease.
 
Thanks for the replies gonna try it with just the piping holding it see how that works i cage a smaller 750 gph that was in the boat I'll most likely keep in boat as a spare on the opposite side
 
I was an idiot for not putting a second one in the day I realized my 750gph couldn't keep up with a hole in my hull!!! Especially considering the fact I use my boat all winter to hunt. Getting a hole in the hull is a little different in July as opposed to January. I fish and hunt my local river that is at the most 100-150 yards wide. So first thing to do after getting a hole is head for shore, which seems simple enough. But when I punched the hole in my hull last summer, I beached my boat at the same time in some riffles in the middle of the river. With three guys in the boat we were struggling to get the boat off the rocks. After about a minute I looked down and my sandals were floating on the floor. Turned on the bilge pump and two of us jumped out to get the boat off the rocks. By the time we got to shore my boat had 6" of water in it. From the time we hit to the time we got the boat to shore it couldn't have been more than 3-4 minutes. I couldn't imagine if I had to hand pump the water out or try to hook up a second bilge pump while my boat is filling with water. By the time I got that done I'd probably be sunk!! This is why I now have a second, bigger bilge pump wired to a separate switch on a separate battery with smooth bore heavy duty vinyl hose. When crap hits the fan next time I want the water out of my boat ASAP. Hell, when I was first doing my build I wasn't even considering a bilge pump. Figured with the small river I'm on just head to shore if I ever get a hole. But an experience like above will make you respect how quickly things can go south and the need for an adequate pump(s).

Here is all the bigger my hole was. Amazing how fast it filled my boat with water!!! :shock:
IMG_20140726_092053_zpsvmihk7mk.jpg
 
BigTerp said:
I was an idiot for not putting a second one in the day I realized my 750gph couldn't keep up with a hole in my hull!!!

Perfect example as to why both pump, not just one pump should be wired. In an emergency, one won't have time to switch wires :( .
 
Terp - I have been MILES from shore in the ocean back in my young stupid days with ONLY a hand pump
onboard to satisfy the USCG requirements.

Now, 50 years later, by the Grace of God, nothing ever happened. But, now I think about a hole in the
hull as you experienced . . . . if you only had one hand operated pump, you could not address the leaking issue.

so guys - think about this . . . if you experience some kind of catastrophic event, such as a hole in the hull,
cracked seam, or pouring down rain and you see Noah's Ark pass you by,
how can you address the hole (or water issue) if you are pumping like crazy on a hand pump ???
or, drive a tiller steer and pump at the same time.
even a lawn mower battery and big electric pump could give you that advantage to make it to Safe Haven.
Maybe it's time to "rethink" your safety gear.

My two pumps have spade blade connectors - less than 30 seconds to switch them out if one fails.
But now, putting more thought into this, I am going to have them BOTH connected to their own float switch.


Jus my dos centavos
 
RiverBottomOutdoors said:
One of the port side, one on the starboard side...no matter which way the boat lists you're covered. Plus you've got redundancy and double the gph output.
110% correct! Here's a lesson my offshore days/experience taught me ...

A 2" hole only 1' below the waterline will let in ~78-gallons per minute. That is 4680 gallons per hour! Plus, at typical 8.5 pounds per gallon for saltwater, that is 663 POUNDS per MINUTE being added to the boat. Holy s#$t that's a ton of weight!

Now, many here may not need that redundancy, but I tell you, I like the backup!
 
Seon said:
Wiring it to an auto bilge pump float would also be a plus :) .
FWIW years ago (where my boatclub runs a small fleet of skiffs left in the water 24/7 May - Oct) I started switching out all brand pumps to these non-moving parts fully automatic 800GPH pumps and haven't had 1 failure ... or sunk boat :shock: !

Marpac Premier Automatic Bilge Pump 800 GPH 7-2208

• A rugged ABS fuel resistant housing with patented “Field Effect” sensing technology that uses micro electrical fields to turn the pump on/off when water is detected. (No moving parts that can jam!)
• Advanced digital design that is Mercury free with no float switch to be jammed on or off.
• The simple 3 wire design is easy to install and can be run in auto or manual override mode.
• Straight and omni-directional 90° hose barbs, as well as a backflow check valve are included.
• Made in USA, this pump is NMMA, ABYC, USCG and CE Certified.
• Includes a 3 year warranty.

They can be found on-line for $66 - $75. There is also 2 small 'dots' marked on the housings and to test the pump, you simply wet your fingers and touch both dots and presto ... pump runs.
 

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Well geuss I'll be wiring both pumps one on each side I run some pretty rocky rivers including the Delaware Susquehanna and Lehigh so it can't hurt to be over prepared I don't have them on a float though just on and off switch I don't really see a benefit to the float switch
 
jd4x426 said:
Well geuss I'll be wiring both pumps one on each side I run some pretty rocky rivers including the Delaware Susquehanna and Lehigh so it can't hurt to be over prepared I don't have them on a float though just on and off switch I don't really see a benefit to the float switch

Float switch is nice if you leave the boat in the water unattended for long periods of time or if you forget to put the plug in before launching.
 
The float switch is for boats, such as mine, that have an aft casting deck that covers the
back floor and you can't readily see the back portion of the bilge.
My 1648 has some leaky rivets that I can't seem to locate and fix.
When I first got it, it was gosh awful leaking !!! only with a manual on/off switch single 850 pump.
And when I forget to periodically empty the bilge, it accumulates over 5-10 gallons
in a couple of hours of boating. Now, with 99% of the leaks fixed, I am still uncomfortable with
the manual switch. Thus, I am converting to dual 1200 pumps that have float switches
within the body. Port and Starboard. Then, when I get an extra $30 or so, I will put another
1200 pump up in the bow cavity.
overkill ??? sure, but, it is MY decision to make.
With a 50hp pushing a 1648 at 30mph, one bad hit could be catastrophic in a very short period of time.
If one should suffer a catastrophic event, you need to have something that can take care of the
incoming flood for you to at least make it to the nearest shore.

jus my dos centavos
 

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