Transom replacement...1.25" thick

So i need to make a new transom and i need it to be 1.25" thick to fit the brackets already there. All i can find is 3/4" marine grade plywood. What are the thoughts on just using another plywood and sealing it with marine grade fiberglass?

Thoughts?

Thank you

yep, you are on the correct track...................... just like you explained.
Once sealed correctly, any wood will last a very long time.
and this comes from a long career in the Sign Industry - where properly sealing
the wood separates the real "sign makers" from the vinyl shops.

FWIW I've laminated 1/4" luan to other pieces to build up the required thickness, just be aware it really soaks up the resin, so it tends to be a heavier alternative, albeit a relatively low cost solution (less the more resin used).

If co$t wasn't a factor you could glass some nidacore to the 3/4" wood to get to your desired thickness.

Liquid nail the sheets of plywood together to get the required thickness, clamp and let dry overnight, then cut it to size.

Then like everyone else said, epoxy the heck out of it. Pay extra attention to the edges, those will really soak it up.

You can use fiberglass resin, or I used spar urethane. A quart can was $12 at Menards. I put 4 or 5 coats on there over 2 days.

Buy some of those cheap throw away foam brushes to use for applying it.

You don't need to use Marine grade plywood. Exterior grade plywood will work just fine. One piece of 3/4" plywood and a piece of 1/2" plywood glued together with Tite bond III.

lckstckn2smknbrls said:

You don't need to use Marine grade plywood. Exterior grade plywood will work just fine. One piece of 3/4" plywood and a piece of 1/2" plywood glued together with Tite bond III.

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Agreed. Regular plywood sealed with 3 coats of Resin will last a lifetime.


CMOS

You know how you can ruin a finish by discovering air bubbles in it? Air leaves wood as temps rise, so for any good finish, always coat it AFTER the highest heat of the day and when the temps are falling.

Likewise, when finishing the end grain on woods to be sealed, I'll hit them lightly w/ heat gun in the afternoon and as it cools off I wet in the ultra-thin wetting epoxy. Penetrates like you can't believe! Wait for that coat to 'kick', then hit it again, and so on.

1.25 aluminum tubing and frame it out 8)

Why buy 1/2" AND 3/4" to make 1.25" when you can just buy one of 5/8" and cut out both pieces identically and laminate them together?

ericman said:

Why buy 1/2" AND 3/4" to make 1.25" when you can just buy one of 5/8" and cut out both pieces identically and laminate them together?

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Well duh. lol