I have a 1470 Jon, I just took to shop earlier this week. I stopped in this morning to get an estimate on the transom replacement and they told me $375. I know labor is a lot of it but that kind of shocked me. No glass work, just lots of rivets to be removed and replaced, even down thru the floor for the braces. I'm just wondering if I should suck it up and let them do it or go pick it and do it myself with ss bolts? Would appreciate a few quick responses since I need to get it tomorrow if I'm going to do it myself. This is the best pic I have of the back of the boat.
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lckstckn2smknbrls
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I did the transom on my '71 wards sea king 1436 jon. It's not hard but every boat is different. More pictures will help us help you.
Yeah.... I should have snapped a few this morning but didn't think about it.... My concern is the two braces that are also riveted to the bottom, that's what I would be afraid to tackle
Probably going to suck it up and let them do it, I'm sure their job will last much longer than mine, shop has reputation of being pricy but they do tremendous work
Probably going to suck it up and let them do it, I'm sure their job will last much longer than mine, shop has reputation of being pricy but they do tremendous work
lckstckn2smknbrls
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I took the corner caps off and slid the new transom in from the top.
lckstckn2smknbrls
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They were only welded at the fronts and bolted at the rear. I had them completely welded on when done.
I found some more pics of my transom replacement. I used two sheets, believe they were both 3/4".
Remove the rivets to the knee brace and side support panels, pull out transom.
I used SS bolts/nuts sealed w/ 3M 5200 to replace the rivets. Size 8 or 10 is a dead ringer for the size of the rivet.
Take a look at your transom and see if this would work for you, good luck.
Remove the rivets to the knee brace and side support panels, pull out transom.
I used SS bolts/nuts sealed w/ 3M 5200 to replace the rivets. Size 8 or 10 is a dead ringer for the size of the rivet.
Take a look at your transom and see if this would work for you, good luck.
Attachments
ok, look here . . . . .
PART of the enjoyment of HAVING your own boat, is just simply messing around with it.
Doing your own personal twists, quirks and snippets that make it YOURS.
NONE of us here were tossed into a boat knowing all there is to know about boats.
Learn as you Go. Fly by the seat of your Pants. HAVE FUN discovering nautical talents
you never knew you had. Get your hands dirty. Put some paint on your GOOD clothes.
Bury a splinter so deep into your hand it takes a pair of needle nose pliers to get it out.
Piddle with your boat way into the late hours and you come into a dark house with your
cold dinner on the table and an irritated wife in the bed.
Restoring, remodeling, fixing up, no matter what you call it, it is YOUR TIME that you invest
in LEARNING things such as CHEMISTRY - METALLURGY - CORROSION - ACIDS, PRIMERS,
CLEANERS, PRESERVATIVES, PAINTS, OILS, GREASE, ELECTRICAL this that and the other.
DO NOT let some rip off shop sell you a song and dance about a simple job you can do yourself
if you take your time, ask questions, and dive into it with common sense.
Now, if you drive a 2015 Escalade to your big fine office, and your wife drives a nice Mercedes
convertible to her office, then maybe you can "afford" to pay the big bucks to have your boat
fixed up without question. (just joking on that one).
so, read up on how to redo your transom yourself. It's not rocket science !!!
couple of pieces of plywood, some glue, epoxy or resin (your choice) and it's done.
then, you stand back and say to yourself - - - - I DID THAT !!!!
Then move on to your next nautical accomplishments.
Some basic tools is all that is required to work on your boat. Make simple modifications, etc.
4" angle grinder with a pack of Metal Cutoff Blades
Tin Snips
Hammers = 1lb to 5lb
wood chisels - metal chisels
drill (cordless or corded) sharp drill bits. (metal or wood work well on aluminum)
wire brushes (hand and the ones that fit on the grinder).
EYE PROTECTION
jig saw, circular saw, hack saw, all kinds of saws and blades.
gloves
tool bag full of basic handyman tools.
and a bucket full of common sense.
if you are hung up on something - ASK
Hope I answered your question - yes, you can replace the transom yourself.
:WELCOME:
PART of the enjoyment of HAVING your own boat, is just simply messing around with it.
Doing your own personal twists, quirks and snippets that make it YOURS.
NONE of us here were tossed into a boat knowing all there is to know about boats.
Learn as you Go. Fly by the seat of your Pants. HAVE FUN discovering nautical talents
you never knew you had. Get your hands dirty. Put some paint on your GOOD clothes.
Bury a splinter so deep into your hand it takes a pair of needle nose pliers to get it out.
Piddle with your boat way into the late hours and you come into a dark house with your
cold dinner on the table and an irritated wife in the bed.
Restoring, remodeling, fixing up, no matter what you call it, it is YOUR TIME that you invest
in LEARNING things such as CHEMISTRY - METALLURGY - CORROSION - ACIDS, PRIMERS,
CLEANERS, PRESERVATIVES, PAINTS, OILS, GREASE, ELECTRICAL this that and the other.
DO NOT let some rip off shop sell you a song and dance about a simple job you can do yourself
if you take your time, ask questions, and dive into it with common sense.
Now, if you drive a 2015 Escalade to your big fine office, and your wife drives a nice Mercedes
convertible to her office, then maybe you can "afford" to pay the big bucks to have your boat
fixed up without question. (just joking on that one).
so, read up on how to redo your transom yourself. It's not rocket science !!!
couple of pieces of plywood, some glue, epoxy or resin (your choice) and it's done.
then, you stand back and say to yourself - - - - I DID THAT !!!!
Then move on to your next nautical accomplishments.
Some basic tools is all that is required to work on your boat. Make simple modifications, etc.
4" angle grinder with a pack of Metal Cutoff Blades
Tin Snips
Hammers = 1lb to 5lb
wood chisels - metal chisels
drill (cordless or corded) sharp drill bits. (metal or wood work well on aluminum)
wire brushes (hand and the ones that fit on the grinder).
EYE PROTECTION
jig saw, circular saw, hack saw, all kinds of saws and blades.
gloves
tool bag full of basic handyman tools.
and a bucket full of common sense.
if you are hung up on something - ASK
Hope I answered your question - yes, you can replace the transom yourself.
:WELCOME:
Attachments
EZ707
Well-known member
Theres always stick welding. All u need is a torch and good aluminum rod and a good job can be done cleaning the messy welds with a wire brush on a grinder
Skiffing
Well-known member
^^^^
Errrr - NO!
Errrr - NO!
Barefoot_Johnny said:
My friend! That was fantastic! I died laughing!
I have actually done this type of stuff before, long nights, mad wife.... Lots of beer! I did several inflatables and then small fiberglass boats but have been antsy about cutting into the metal and popping rivets..... I've decided to take on the project and I'll reward myself with the fish finder I've been wanting with the $300 I'll save!
Thanks!
oh yeah, I fully understand about being antsy about cutting into the metal and popping rivets...
I myself started out in old wood boats then graduated to the fiberglass.
Fiberglass is much more forgiving of your mistakes than metal for sure.
If not done properly, and with some forethought, the cutting and riveting of a tin boat can
come back and bite you. Plus, once done, it is hard to change if you do it wrong. (cosmetically)
Fiberglass - wow, I can poke a hole in a Corvette body and repair it and you would never know
it had been damaged. (ask me how I know this :LMFAO: )
But rivets and cutting metal - yes - it does have a small learning curve. Just double think everything
until you are comfortable with the project you are doing.
REMOVING rivets is not difficult. Putting them BACK so they don't leak is a skill to be learned.
Read back over the past posts as how to do this - and how to prep the transom metal prior to painting
and putting the wood back and you will be golden.
Happy Boating, tight lines and be safe,
Johnny
AND if you ever want to try the stick welding with a torch for aluminum,
I suggest you practice practice practice on some metal similar
to your boat's hull material. I tried it several times with MAP gas and still
have not got it to the level where I would put a torch to my boat hull.
Jus my dos centavos
I myself started out in old wood boats then graduated to the fiberglass.
Fiberglass is much more forgiving of your mistakes than metal for sure.
If not done properly, and with some forethought, the cutting and riveting of a tin boat can
come back and bite you. Plus, once done, it is hard to change if you do it wrong. (cosmetically)
Fiberglass - wow, I can poke a hole in a Corvette body and repair it and you would never know
it had been damaged. (ask me how I know this :LMFAO: )
But rivets and cutting metal - yes - it does have a small learning curve. Just double think everything
until you are comfortable with the project you are doing.
REMOVING rivets is not difficult. Putting them BACK so they don't leak is a skill to be learned.
Read back over the past posts as how to do this - and how to prep the transom metal prior to painting
and putting the wood back and you will be golden.
Happy Boating, tight lines and be safe,
Johnny
AND if you ever want to try the stick welding with a torch for aluminum,
I suggest you practice practice practice on some metal similar
to your boat's hull material. I tried it several times with MAP gas and still
have not got it to the level where I would put a torch to my boat hull.
Jus my dos centavos
Another question, I want to take the bench seat out and replace it with an elevated floor.... I will string either 2x12s or 2x8s as the main floor/deck supports.... And put foam under to make up for the bench....
Sound good?
Sound good?
Skiffing
Well-known member
^^^
If you're always going to be on a sheltered pond with quick access to shore ...........
I recommend against.
Keep your center of gravity as low as possible or get a bigger boat.
If you're always going to be on a sheltered pond with quick access to shore ...........
I recommend against.
Keep your center of gravity as low as possible or get a bigger boat.
